buying my first LC - many questions

[stzlc]

Howdy from the great north

I am looking at a Japanese-built '91 LC shortbody 2door with the small turbo deisel (is this even the 70 series? I don't know...). I am a mechanic, but I have no knowledge of LC's. Answer what you can, I'll greatly appreciate it. My questions are:

1 - I hear there is a weakness with this engine. Can someone explain it further and let me know about possible mods to deal with it?

2 - What is the total cargo/tow capacity of this small rig (in pounds or killograms is fine)?

3 - How hard is it to get parts for this rig; basically anything you've ever had to replace (everything from glass & lights to driveline compts, brakes and steering, fuelf pump, water pump, and electronics)

4 - Where can I do little research on the market vaue of this import?

5 - What should I specifically look at for wear n tear, weaknesses and/or known issues?

 

[lshobie]

If it is an LJ71 or 78 then turn around and run away - there are many posts on here about them and how the heads crap out. Even if you are a mechanic the parts are what costs.

Some dealers were promoting them and selling them up until a few months ago - now dealers are just trying to unload them.

Buy a BJ74 or HZJ model and you won't have problems.

Regards,

 

[crushers]

not all dealers are "just unloading them" we have 2 here we won't sell...

do a search and you will be overwhelmed with information.

the BJ70/74 is a great rig
the PZJ70 are great rigs
the HZJ70/73 are great rigs

i have a PZJ70 rag top sitting here that pulls VERY nicely and the PZ is a quiet fuel efficient little known engine.
i have a BJ70 rag top sitting here that is a bit noisier, not quite as peppy (although very close in displacement to the PZ) but is a bullet proof engine that is great on fuel.

if you are looking at the smaller engines they are not any better on fuel than the higher displacement ...

 

[light_duty]

It does sound like an LJ70 or 71...and there is no need to run away as Louis suggests, but it is wise to go into such a purchase with your eye open. The 2L-TE of that vintage is known to have head-cracking issues, or at least that is the perception from forums like these, where people come looking for help when their truck starts boiling over. Who knows how many of these trucks are out there, racking up the miles with no problems at all. After all, the 2L-Tx is probably one of the most common diesel engines in the world, powering generations of Hilux, Surf and Land Cruiser trucks (not to mention some of the Toyota vans, etc.) all over the world in all kinds of terrible conditions. We only hear about the ones that don't make it.

Go over the truck thoroughly before you buy. Take it for a good long spin, and watch for the signs of head crackage - bubbles in the expansion tank, temp needle jumping around, air locking, coolant loss, overheating, etc. If you decide to go for it, flush the cooling system, check the clutch fan operation, test the thermostat. Install pyro (good idea on any diesel) and a mechanical water gauge and just drive the thing. You will love it.

In the (still unlikely) event that your head does crack, you can get the parts quite readily, and if you do the work yourself, it won't cost you too much - maybe $1400 if you decide to do the water pump and timing belt while you're in there. Maybe use that as a negotiating tool to get the seller to drop the price a bit - and keep the money for contingencies.

Other than the head cracking issue, I know of no serious recurring issues with these trucks. They are quiet, nimble, fun to drive. A little on the slow side, but what's the hurry? The SWB 70/71 will be a little better than the long wheel base 78.

So now you've heard both sides of the story. Good luck!

Robin

 

[stzlc]

why?

Thanks for the info everyone. I won't run away, but I will be taking a good hard and close look. I've begun pricing out replacement parts now so I have a good idea what it will be like if it does go.

Anyonw know WHY the heads can crack? Is it a structural weakness, a flaw in the coolant system, a tendancy to vapor-lock?

There must be mods out there to deal with it, unless it is just a poor head, which I would doubt from toyota.

PS, what's pyro?

 

[light_duty]

"3 - How hard is it to get parts for this rig; basically anything you've ever had to replace (everything from glass & lights to driveline compts, brakes and steering, fuelf pump, water pump, and electronics)"

Glass - easy (same as CDM 70 series)
Fuel pump - you mean injection pump, I assume - $$$$. Make sure it's not leaking already.
Brakes - no prob. Lots of shared pieces with 80/60 series trucks.
Electronics - can be an issue, because there are no known english FSM for 2L-TE engine. Still, the engine wiring is minimal - nothing like an EFI gasoline engine.

 

[light_duty]

Pyro = pyrometer to measure exhaust gas temps, so you can tell when you're pushing the engine too hard.

The cause of the head weakness is a matter of debate. Most people say it's a bad design that has since been corrected - a water jacket too close to the combustion chamber or something. There may have been a batch of bad castings, who knows. At any rate, the head is supposed to have been uprated, and is available at the dealer for $850.

There is a place in Oz - Allhead is the name - that came up with a system to vent steam from the head, as well as a new impeller design for the water pump. Their theory was that the stock pump caused cavitation in the coolant, which created steam in the head, vapour lock, etc.

I've done my head, and I am not worried about it cracking again, because I drive according to my pyro - keep it under 1100F.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Thanks for the info everyone. I won't run away, but I will be taking a good hard and close look. I've begun pricing out replacement parts now so I have a good idea what it will be like if it does go.

Anyonw know WHY the heads can crack? Is it a structural weakness, a flaw in the coolant system, a tendancy to vapor-lock?

There must be mods out there to deal with it, unless it is just a poor head, which I would doubt from toyota.

PS, what's pyro?

I think the heads have a poor coolant flow. The engine was ok without a turbo.
A pyrometer is a egt gauge that plugs into the manifold.
I dont see it will be much help with saving the head from coolant problems.
These engines also have other varities with different displacments used in Hilux and 4runners.
The 3L which is a 2.8 litre is a good engine and there is also a heavy duty truck version called the 5L,not sure about the displacement.
It maybe possible to switch heads with a 2.8.

However if you want something without headaches, a 6cyl toyota diesel will rarely let you down.

 

[stzlc]

where can I find more info about this vehicle: interpret its VIN, get all the specs and dimensions, etc...

 

[stzlc]

The engine was ok without a turbo.

OK, this is news to me, the ones with turbos don't have the same problem? Great, I am looking at a turbocharged engine.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The engine was ok WITHOUT a turbo. no turbo = good,turbo =bad

 

[light_duty]

This engine hasn't been available without a turbo since the mid-80s. That was the 2L. The 3L which replaced the 2L has never appeared in a Landcruiser, only in the Hilux.

The turbo maxes out at 12 psi on the 2L-TE - not enough boost to add significant engine stress, IMO. Usually it's boosting around 6-7 psi.

Agreed that a B series or 6-cyl engine such as 1HZ are more robust. I just don't see the 2L-Tx as the complete turd it's often made out to be. For example, I've never heard tell of a BEB failure on the L series engine, and only heard one case of a dropped precup. Compared to a BEB failure on a 1HD-T, replacing a cracked head is a relatively inexpensive proposition.

 

[light_duty]

where can I find more info about this vehicle: interpret its VIN, get all the specs and dimensions, etc...

You won't be able to interpret the VIN. All Japanese VIN information is eradicated before the vehicle leaves Japan. The truck may have been issued a new VIN in Canada, but if it was registered in Alberta, chances are it's registered with the frame #, which can tell you build date, but that's about all. And you probably already know that.

There are some pretty good spec sites out there... http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/land_cruiser_prado/1991_8/

You're probably looking at the 2-door prado SX, EX, etc.

 

[crushers]

frame number is the vin number (unless you live in a province that issues a new vin number)...
you can get the vin from the Japanese auction sheet

 

[stzlc]

a little confused ab out VIN?frame

Eradicated? meaning the information that corresponds to the VIN # is deleted, or do you mean the serial # plates are removed in Japan? if frame# and VIN are same and VIN is removed, where do I find frame #, if not what data is conatined in frame # that is not in VIN. There must be some kind of unique serial # or it would not pe possible to register these vehicles.

BTW, thanks for all the help to everyone. I can see that I cam to the right place for LC info.

cheers!

 

[light_duty]

You can find the frame # stamped on the frame behind the right front wheel. My truck is registered with the frame number, which is basically a serial number that gives the model and the order in which it rolled off the assembly line. There were some raised eyebrows when I registered it because the computer at the registry agent did not like the shorter number.

Anyway, you will likely not find any other VIN plate anywhere else on the vehicle...at least my truck has no other ID plates anywhere, aside from at the top of the engine bay, and that shows axle type, tranny type, factory of origin, etc., but no 14-digit VIN anywhere.

 

[crushers]

look on the firewall for codes that pertain to your particular unit...

 

[bruzer]

?

what kind of landcruiser are you looking at?

 

[denis]

This engine hasn't been available without a turbo since the mid-80s. That was the 2L. The 3L which replaced the 2L has never appeared in a Landcruiser, only in the Hilux.

Oh, the 2L was available without a turbo for a very long time after they switched to cam over valve design. I own a 12/1995 LN108 with a NA 2L(2)

 

[light_duty]

Oh, the 2L was available without a turbo for a very long time after they switched to cam over valve design. I own a 12/1995 LN108 with a NA 2L(2)

Alrighty then, thanks for the correction.