Buying a used cv ?

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3D FJ

10 Year 15 Year
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I am considering going to a local junkyard to see if the have any used cv axles for sale. Reason I am doing this is to have one as a trail spare. If I buy a brand new oem axle, I am looking at $370ish for one that will sit for an undefined time period. I don't know when I will need one, so I would rather not have to tie up that amount of cash. So my question is, since it won't come out of a box, what am I to look for? Is there a part number stamped on it somewhere? How can I be sure that they are giving me the correct part? I really don't want to buy one, then find out a year later if I grenade a cv that the part I bought is too short or doesn't fit because it is not from a 100.

My other option is to purchase a rock auto axle as a temporary solution just to get me home. I have read about complaints that people have had regarding these. I find it weird that among some of the FJC guys I wheel with, they've never had problems with these axles. I'd much rather go with oem I think. Thoughts???
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Well, I'd think you'd know it's correct if they pulled it from a 100?
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That's what i'd say normally, but a lot of the junkyards here have parts pulled already sitting on shelves.
 
I've considered picking up a used CV for a trail spare. I've even seen people sell the in the Mud Classifieds. I have purchased OEM Toyota parts from salvage yards and used sites like Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market to find what I'm looking for. If you use the car-part site they list donor vehicle information, year, mileage, even VIN number many of the times. I would think finding a used Toyota CV from a wrecked lower mileage 100 would be just fine...
 
For a trail back-up I would prefer a used OEM take-off to a rock auto or similar aftermarket.

The Tacomas like the aftermarket axles as well but the 100's clearly do not.

As Trunk mentions, the advantage is you can get the 100 home with minimal work leaving the bad CV in place. Not true on a taco/runner where you need a good CV to roll down the road.

Several here replace their OEM CV's every 100kmi or so and carry the used as spares... I wish they would show up in the classifieds here more often.
 
when I replaced both my cv axles...I kept the one that had not broke as my trail spare....either for myself or someone else. Not sure whether I would use it but if not it is also a good immediate fix once I get home especially if money is tight and I can splurge the money for another OEM cv axle. Would rather put the old one back in than get the aftermarket if I have the choice until I can get the Toyota version for the long term.

I actually got another from someone.....and gave it to a member here at our run in Uwharrie so he could have a spare too....
 
How hard would it be to change a CV on the trail? I assume it would take some time/skill to do this. Is it something most should know how to do?
 
SanDiegoCruiser said:
How hard would it be to change a CV on the trail? I assume it would take some time/skill to do this. Is it something most should know how to do?
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Time consuming yes.... difficult...well only if you have never done it before. I feel it is important to know how to do as much as possible. On a good day I can change one in my driveway in about an hour. I would guess I would add about 30 min to an hour to that if doing it on the trail. I have an OEM spare I carry. I would prefer an OEM spare... but if money is tight non OEM should work to get home. Just done leave it in.
 
This is the route I went with my old Tacoma. Bought a used half shaft from a parts dealer in Denver for around $110 (saving more than $200 over new OEM). They had to pull it off the truck in their yard. I'd certainly trust most reputable recyclers that they have tagged it appropriately. And you can eyeball it when you pick it up.

The part sat in my trail spare box for two years - until I sold my truck. Then I sold the spare axle for $110. Pretty good cost of ownership....
 
SanDiegoCruiser said:
How hard would it be to change a CV on the trail? I assume it would take some time/skill to do this. Is it something most should know how to do?
Click to expand...


Unless you absolutely have to do it on the trail... Remove the front flanges, lock the CDL and drive out. If it really blew up, pull the driveshaft as Trunk said. Repair at home.

If you do this though you're just riding out on the circlips that are the only thing holding the wheel/shafts together. Low and slow all the way home.
 
staggrlee said:
If you do this though you're just riding out on the circlips that are the only thing holding the wheel/shafts together. Low and slow all the way home.
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The wheel bearing is un-affected and full stregth. You're referring to just the circlip holding the broken CV in the stub axle right?
 
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