Buy an LC200 that Overheated?

[Ryno15]

I am looking at two 08 LCs that both have over 200k miles.

Would you rather have one that overheated and then had all of the necessary work done or the one that hasn’t overheated? Both are rust free with a good maintenance history.

The one that overheated supposedly had no cylinder damage but has new OEM heads.

On one hand I’m thinking that it’s an inevitable repair so I should buy the one that overheated and has the following recent maintenance.

Recent maintenance (last 5k miles w/ receipts and serviced by a local Toyota Master Mechanic):
-New Radiator
-New AC Compressor/ AC Condenser/ AC expansion Valve
-Thermostat
- New Heads
-New Head Gasket
-Timing Chain
-New Spark Plugs

The other side of me worries that the engine overheated. This isn’t an area I’m super knowledgeable in so I’m interested to hear what you think.

Thanks

Edit:

From the seller - “Yes it overheated before I realized the radiator need replacing. So I went ahead and spent the $13k doing a full repair by a Toyota Master mechanic”

 

[Moby]

Why did it overheat?

 

[Ryno15]

Why did it overheat?

Good question and I should have specified.

from the seller:
“Yes it overheated before I realized the radiator need replacing. So I went ahead and spent the $13k doing a full repair by a Toyota Master mechanic”

 

[kcjaz]

How many miles since the 13k repair?

 

[Ryno15]

How many miles since the 13k repair?

Not many. He just said in the last 5k miles.

You’re right though. I should probably ask.

 

[Sandroad]

It sounds like perhaps a really serious overheating event. There could be damage or compromising of other parts that might lead to a shorter life. Overheating is NOT inevitable, so don’t use that to justify buying the overheated one. If it was me, I would buy the one that has not overheated and put some time/money into preventative maintenance.

 

[Ryno15]

It sounds like perhaps a really serious overheating event. There could be damage or compromising of other parts that might lead to a shorter life. Overheating is NOT inevitable, so don’t use that to justify buying the overheated one. If it was me, I would buy the one that has not overheated and put some time/money into preventative maintenance.

Sorry, I meant to say that it seems like a HG replacement is inevitable on the earlier years but I might be wrong about that as well.

 

[Ryno15]

It sounds like perhaps a really serious overheating event. There could be damage or compromising of other parts that might lead to a shorter life. Overheating is NOT inevitable, so don’t use that to justify buying the overheated one. If it was me, I would buy the one that has not overheated and put some time/money into preventative maintenance.

And you are probably right about just getting one that hasn’t had a HG failure.

 

[ElJayBird]

The cooling system has been the weak spot on LC’s forever - my 80 series is the only vehicle that’s ever left me stranded. Now I keep a close eye on temperatures.

On the 200, I just proactively replaced every component of the cooling system at 150K, which was probably overkill but “one bitten…”

The water pump and the radiator are the components to watch most closely. That and hoses on an 08 - I’d just replace them all plus the starter. These are components that have a very finite existence and 10+ years is getting up there for any vehicle.

I’d pull the service history - if the HG has failed before, that would be a problem for me. It’s preventable, but prevention is the operative thing here IMO

 

[Ryno15]

The cooling system has been the weak spot on LC’s forever - my 80 series is the only vehicle that’s ever left me stranded. Now I keep a close eye on temperatures.

On the 200, I just proactively replaced every component of the cooling system at 150K, which was probably overkill but “one bitten…”

The water pump and the radiator are the components to watch most closely. That and hoses on an 08 - I’d just replace them all plus the starter. These are components that have a very finite existence and 10+ years is getting up there for any vehicle.

I’d pull the service history - if the HG has failed before, that would be a problem for me. It’s preventable, but prevention is the operative thing here IMO

The one with 260k that hasn’t overheated has the valley plate, starter, and steering rack done. He said they did the VP while replacing the steering rack.

I need to check on the radiator and WP.

 

[Zill]

I would go with the non overheated one.

They replaced the heads, but how much warpage happened to the block? That’s something you can’t fix, and you likely will be dealing with head gasket issues for the rest of the life of that vehicle.

Who drops 13k on a rig and then decides to sell it?

 

[Ryno15]

I would go with the non overheated one.

They replaced the heads, but how much warpage happened to the block? That’s something you can’t fix, and you likely will be dealing with head gasket issues for the rest of the life of that vehicle.

Who drops 13k on a rig and then decides to sell it?

According to him his parents sold him their newer 200 shortly after.

You all are helping me realize that it could be a very bad purchase.

 

[Supra Turbo]

10+ years is getting up there for any vehicle

Agreed, age takes a toll on rubber and plastic. Though they seemed fine, even our 10 year old LC with 12k miles received a new updated radiator, thermostat, hoses, and a few other bits. Proactively replacing these cooling components and doing a coolant flush every 5 years is cheap "insurance" to the alternative.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

The only thing that could convince me that the overheated one would be the right choice is a massive price difference. Such a big price difference that I could factor in the possibility of an engine swap.

 

[Ryno15]

The only thing that could convince me that the overheated one would be the right choice is a massive price difference. Such a big price difference that I could factor in the possibility of an engine swap.

That’s kind of what I’m thinking the more I look into it.

And it seems like a 5.7 engine swap isn’t cheap at all.

 

[Zill]

That’s kind of what I’m thinking the more I look into it.

And it seems like a 5.7 engine swap isn’t cheap at all.

If they swapped in a used factory sealed 5.7, I’d be more inclined to buy it, but with a known overheat problem event, It’s just not worth the risk.

These engines do not tolerate lack of coolant.

 

[Ryno15]

If they swapped in a used factory sealed 5.7, I’d be more inclined to buy it, but with a known overheat problem event, It’s just not worth the risk.

These engines do not tolerate lack of coolant.

It kind of makes me want to keep my 4.7L but I test drove a 200 and now I want the 5.7L.

 

[Zill]

It kind of makes me want to keep my 4.7L but I test drove a 200 and now I want the 5.7L.

Hah - the 5.7 certainly is an upgrade in the power department.

As the rule goes, buy the newest and lowest mileage cruiser that you can afford. They aren’t making new ones and the replacement for them is not designed with the same philosophy (downgrades in nearly every single aspect except for supposed MPG increases), so finding a lightly used that will treat you well for a long time is key.

Don’t be afraid to look at LX 570’s as well. Most of them were used for mall crawlers and are easier and cheaper to find as well. Rust is the main killer of these rigs, but once you get into the 250k mile realm, you are running the risk of having a 5k head gasket repair staring down at you. Supposedly they changed the head gasket material for the late 2013 model year, so those are less risky.

 

[Ryno15]

Hah - the 5.7 certainly is an upgrade in the power department.

As the rule goes, buy the newest and lowest mileage cruiser that you can afford. They aren’t making new ones and the replacement for them is not designed with the same philosophy (downgrades in nearly every single aspect except for supposed MPG increases), so finding a lightly used that will treat you well for a long time is key.

Don’t be afraid to look at LX 570’s as well. Most of them were used for mall crawlers and are easier and cheaper to find as well. Rust is the main killer of these rigs, but once you get into the 250k mile realm, you are running the risk of having a 5k head gasket repair staring down at you. Supposedly they changed the head gasket material for the late 2013 model year, so those are less risky.

I was considering an LX but I really hate the front end. I know it’s silly but it bothers me.

And I would prefer not to have AHC. I know a lot of people love it but I’m not sure I want to mess with it.

 

[Zill]

I was considering an LX but I really hate the front end. I know it’s silly but it bothers me.

And I would prefer not to have AHC. I know a lot of people love it but I’m not sure I want to mess with it.

You get used to it over time. I didn’t like it at start, but if you see it in person, it’s not bad at all.

AHC is also long term reliable as long as there’s no rust. The ability to swap between floating comfort or tightened suspension with a flip of a switch is a huge perk.