$450 later, my car is good now, it is just not a good design lol. It could be I just have too much uncontrolable power too.
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
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Mine broke after I complained about the new cars starting to come with push button start
Add me to the list. I went to leave the house Saturday night, turned the key and felt a snap. I have a 2001.
I guess I was lucky in that it happened at my house, but wow, what a bad design. The little cam rod that is inside the steering column lock assembly can render the car completely useless with no easy way of limping home. You can definitely jury rig it but it requires removing dash trim, dropping the steering column and drilling out some anti-theft bolts.
In case anyone is interested in some details about the problem, the first picture shows the steering column lock assembly with the key cylinder and cam rod removed.
If you look at the upper left hand portion of the previous picture, you can see the curved portion that bolts (anti-theft) to the steering column. You can also see the "dead bolt" that protrudes from the curved section. This "dead bolt" engages slots in the steering column and is what locks it from turning when you turn off the engine and remove the key. It functions very similarly to a household door lock.
This next picture is of the cam rod (with a penny to show scale).
The cams on the cam rod are what moves the "dead bolt". As you can see, the cam rod is not very large in diameter in between the cams (where it broke). Its also made of cast aluminum or aluminum alloy. I realize it would probably be cost prohibitive to expect this piece to be machined instead of cast. But there is really no excuse for the small diameter given the torque on this piece and how much room there is inside the assembly. It could be twice as big and still fit inside the assembly.
The problem is when the "dead bolt" is not in complete alignment with the slots in the steering column. It creates a lot of friction that the little weak cam rod has to overcome. So, before you or your significant other starts forcing the key to turn, take some pressure off the "dead bolt" by slightly turning the steering wheel.
I only found a few brief write-ups on doing the replacement on some other forums, but nothing in great detail. One of the problems I ran in to, is that these other write-ups make reference to turning the steering wheel to get access to some trim screws. My cam rod broke with the "dead bolt" engaged, therefore I couldn't turn the steering wheel. I only had access to two out of the three lower trim screws. I had to sacrifice the lower steering column trim piece so that added $45 to my repair cost. All in, I'm at $220 with a good education on the steering column components. Like others, I replaced the anti-theft bolts with normal hex cap bolts. If a thief is going to go to the trouble of removing trim, unbolting and dropping the steering column to get access to these hex cap bolts, they can just take it.
I guess I was lucky in that it happened at my house, but wow, what a bad design. The little cam rod that is inside the steering column lock assembly can render the car completely useless with no easy way of limping home. You can definitely jury rig it but it requires removing dash trim, dropping the steering column and drilling out some anti-theft bolts.
In case anyone is interested in some details about the problem, the first picture shows the steering column lock assembly with the key cylinder and cam rod removed.
If you look at the upper left hand portion of the previous picture, you can see the curved portion that bolts (anti-theft) to the steering column. You can also see the "dead bolt" that protrudes from the curved section. This "dead bolt" engages slots in the steering column and is what locks it from turning when you turn off the engine and remove the key. It functions very similarly to a household door lock.
This next picture is of the cam rod (with a penny to show scale).
The cams on the cam rod are what moves the "dead bolt". As you can see, the cam rod is not very large in diameter in between the cams (where it broke). Its also made of cast aluminum or aluminum alloy. I realize it would probably be cost prohibitive to expect this piece to be machined instead of cast. But there is really no excuse for the small diameter given the torque on this piece and how much room there is inside the assembly. It could be twice as big and still fit inside the assembly.
The problem is when the "dead bolt" is not in complete alignment with the slots in the steering column. It creates a lot of friction that the little weak cam rod has to overcome. So, before you or your significant other starts forcing the key to turn, take some pressure off the "dead bolt" by slightly turning the steering wheel.
I only found a few brief write-ups on doing the replacement on some other forums, but nothing in great detail. One of the problems I ran in to, is that these other write-ups make reference to turning the steering wheel to get access to some trim screws. My cam rod broke with the "dead bolt" engaged, therefore I couldn't turn the steering wheel. I only had access to two out of the three lower trim screws. I had to sacrifice the lower steering column trim piece so that added $45 to my repair cost. All in, I'm at $220 with a good education on the steering column components. Like others, I replaced the anti-theft bolts with normal hex cap bolts. If a thief is going to go to the trouble of removing trim, unbolting and dropping the steering column to get access to these hex cap bolts, they can just take it.
Is the "dead bolt" something that could be lubed or polished to reduce friction and stress on the cam and prevent a failure ?
Looking at the complexity of the system I can see why they want to go to keyless electric systems.
Looking at the complexity of the system I can see why they want to go to keyless electric systems.
Its already lubed and fairly polished, but when the steering wheel is turned enough theres not much lube or polishing that could get the bolt to be removed easily. Think of it like the deadbolt on your front door. If you are trying to open the door while trying to turn the key, it won't unlock easily.
Even on keyless systems, there still has to be a mechanical lock on the steering wheel. Hopefully, theres a better designed mechanism to actuate it.
I had the same problem on the wife's LX. Only, it cost me about $1250 to get it towed and repaired.
holy crap....you got pnowend
Had this happen in 2007, I have an '00 LX. I replaced only the shaft, but had to buy the housing and the shaft. It was about $200 at a dealer. The bastard at the counter laughed when he saw the broken part. He said it's a common thing and they keep them in stock for that reason.
It was a b'tch to replace the shaft only, but I think it's still easier that swapping in the bracket. I think there should be a recall based on this things breaking.
P.S. some bitch edited the bitch out of my bitching sentence, so I said bitch, I have to edit it.
It was a b'tch to replace the shaft only, but I think it's still easier that swapping in the bracket. I think there should be a recall based on this things breaking.
P.S. some bitch edited the bitch out of my bitching sentence, so I said bitch, I have to edit it.
Happened to me today. 110,000 miles on the truck. I have ordered the part and will pick it up Saturday. Has anybody successfully been able to take the Cam Rod out and replace it without taking the whole housing out?
I wonder if this would be a good preventive maintenance item. There are times where if this item broke it would be cost prohibitive to tow my truck out of the woods. The other day when I went to start my LC the key would not turn. I turned the wheel back and forth a bit and finally got it to turn. I have almost 180000 miles on mine.
Hi Serge,
I just noticed you actually replaced the shaft without taking the whole housing out. Any suggestions before I try it tomorrow will be extremely appreciated.
I just noticed you actually replaced the shaft without taking the whole housing out. Any suggestions before I try it tomorrow will be extremely appreciated.
Picked up the parts and went to work. It turned out to be much easier than I first thought. The procedure can be done in 2-3 different ways. The first one is to do what the dealer does (or at least what they say they do) and take out the whole steering column and do all the work on a bench. Or you can loosen the upper 4 bolts holding the column and bring it down a little for better access. The third and easiest way to do it is to just exchange the broken Cam Rod without taking the whole housing off the column.
In an earlier post somebody mention that they had to sacrifice the lower plastic cover below the steering wheel due to the steering wheel being locked via the steering lock (one or two screws are behind the steering wheel). This will not be necessary if you take the ignition sleeve and the first of the two broken Cam Rod pieces out of the housing. This will enable you to stick a screwdriver inside and push on the locking mechanism for the steering lock so that the steering wheel can be turned to access the screws.
However, if you do it the way I just did it, you don't even have to remove the upper two plastic covers.
This procedure (which takes less than an hour to do) is for an LX470 2002:
First remove the plastic cover that sits under the steering column which houses the rear window buttons, the gas fill cover and the hood latch. Remove it completely for easy access. Four Philips screws hold the two latches. Four electrical connections also need to be disconnected. Also remove the metal plate held down by four 10mm bolts. This gives you better access.
Remove the black ring that's around the ignition (one Philips screw) and place it to the side.
Now remove the key cylinder by inserting the key to the ON (or somewhere between ON and Acc) position and push a small screwdriver or a small punch in to the whole underneath the housing to release the key cylinder.
After removing the cylinder make sure you take a look at exactly which position the broken Cam Rod is in so that you get it right when inserting the new one later. I believe you can also look at the new one you just bought as they don't sell just the Cam Rod, but the whole housing.
Now the small broken piece needs to come out and this is where it gets a little trickier. As you will see on the new housing, there is a slot that allows you to insert or remove the Cam Rod which also acts as a lock so the Cam Rod doesn't come out again. Doing the whole procedure this way makes it difficult if not impossible to have a look in the back of the housing since it's still attached to the steering column.
The next step is to remove the two Philips screws holding the white plastic part that is attached to the back of the housing. It's possible to get a medium sized Philips screwdriver in there and remove the screws, but quite difficult to get the screws back in again. (tape the screw to the screwdriver while trying to locate the holes). Then back off the plastic part about 1/4" so that the Cam Rod can be turned easily. Using a pair of very long needle pliers the broken part can now be turned and pulled out. This is where you will look at the new Cam Rod and the new housing to see how to position the broken off piece inside the housing so that it can be extracted. Mine had to be turned about 90 degrees to the left.
After this you take the new Cam Rod and push it in all the way so that the slot in the housing is aligned with the part of the Cam Rod that needs to fit in this slot. I used a pair of needle pliers to push the rod in. Then turn the Cam Rod so it's in the same position as the old one was in when you first took it apart. This should prevent you from placing the rod in the 180 degree wrong position. If you turn it 180 degrees the wrong way I believe you will have to use procedure 1 or 2 (removing the housing by drilling out the bolts) since the Cam Rod is now in the way for you to get in with a long screwdriver and release the steering lock. Fortunately it worked the first time for me.
Good Luck and please send me any questions about the above ramblings.
In an earlier post somebody mention that they had to sacrifice the lower plastic cover below the steering wheel due to the steering wheel being locked via the steering lock (one or two screws are behind the steering wheel). This will not be necessary if you take the ignition sleeve and the first of the two broken Cam Rod pieces out of the housing. This will enable you to stick a screwdriver inside and push on the locking mechanism for the steering lock so that the steering wheel can be turned to access the screws.
However, if you do it the way I just did it, you don't even have to remove the upper two plastic covers.
This procedure (which takes less than an hour to do) is for an LX470 2002:
First remove the plastic cover that sits under the steering column which houses the rear window buttons, the gas fill cover and the hood latch. Remove it completely for easy access. Four Philips screws hold the two latches. Four electrical connections also need to be disconnected. Also remove the metal plate held down by four 10mm bolts. This gives you better access.
Remove the black ring that's around the ignition (one Philips screw) and place it to the side.
Now remove the key cylinder by inserting the key to the ON (or somewhere between ON and Acc) position and push a small screwdriver or a small punch in to the whole underneath the housing to release the key cylinder.
After removing the cylinder make sure you take a look at exactly which position the broken Cam Rod is in so that you get it right when inserting the new one later. I believe you can also look at the new one you just bought as they don't sell just the Cam Rod, but the whole housing.
Now the small broken piece needs to come out and this is where it gets a little trickier. As you will see on the new housing, there is a slot that allows you to insert or remove the Cam Rod which also acts as a lock so the Cam Rod doesn't come out again. Doing the whole procedure this way makes it difficult if not impossible to have a look in the back of the housing since it's still attached to the steering column.
The next step is to remove the two Philips screws holding the white plastic part that is attached to the back of the housing. It's possible to get a medium sized Philips screwdriver in there and remove the screws, but quite difficult to get the screws back in again. (tape the screw to the screwdriver while trying to locate the holes). Then back off the plastic part about 1/4" so that the Cam Rod can be turned easily. Using a pair of very long needle pliers the broken part can now be turned and pulled out. This is where you will look at the new Cam Rod and the new housing to see how to position the broken off piece inside the housing so that it can be extracted. Mine had to be turned about 90 degrees to the left.
After this you take the new Cam Rod and push it in all the way so that the slot in the housing is aligned with the part of the Cam Rod that needs to fit in this slot. I used a pair of needle pliers to push the rod in. Then turn the Cam Rod so it's in the same position as the old one was in when you first took it apart. This should prevent you from placing the rod in the 180 degree wrong position. If you turn it 180 degrees the wrong way I believe you will have to use procedure 1 or 2 (removing the housing by drilling out the bolts) since the Cam Rod is now in the way for you to get in with a long screwdriver and release the steering lock. Fortunately it worked the first time for me.
Good Luck and please send me any questions about the above ramblings.
Very nice write-up. No doubt I will need to do this in the near future. Doing it without removing everything is a big plus.
Sorry for late reply but looks like you didn't have any problems. I have done just that. It was a lot of fiddling. First to get the broken end out then to get the new part in. Good luck.
Same thing happened to me; 2000 lx470 in a grocery store parking lot. Dealership in clearwater quoted approx 1200-1500 dollars to fix with a key that matched my doors.
Needless to say, I have been driving for the past week (after disassembling the ignition cylinder) by using a screwdriver to start my lx with the key in the ignition. Nice to have freinds who used to be deliquents to get me going again, but this is a temp fix.
just wanted to say thanks for all the tips and advice in this thread, especially to socalsuv and parnoren.
I am going to give this a shot.
Needless to say, I have been driving for the past week (after disassembling the ignition cylinder) by using a screwdriver to start my lx with the key in the ignition. Nice to have freinds who used to be deliquents to get me going again, but this is a temp fix.just wanted to say thanks for all the tips and advice in this thread, especially to socalsuv and parnoren.
I am going to give this a shot.does anyone know where a cam rod can be purchased separately? My dealership said they only sell the entire ignition cylinder.
Add me to the list. Went out from work yesterday and the key just freely turned, looks like it broke with the rod in the Acc or On position since my dash lights were on, radio was on, I disconnected my battery so it didn't drain.
My neighbor is a mechanic at the Chevy dealer, he said he could do the work for me, but I have to get the part. I found it locally at a Toyota dealer, $170.02 for the 45280-60510 Bracket Assy, and $3.43 each for the 2 breakaway bolts(45897-12020). Also had to get a tow of about 20miles, so that cost me $85. The local Toyota dealer quoted me 2 hours of labor which he said amounted to $232, so I'm hoping my neighbor comes in well below that. He's a good guy so I'm sure he will.
So far that's $272.49 (with tax) and I'm hoping that my labor charge is $200 or less.
This is the first time my LX470 has ever left me stranded, it's an '02 so I guess that's pretty good.
Frustrating problem, but all in all not horribly expensive.
My neighbor is a mechanic at the Chevy dealer, he said he could do the work for me, but I have to get the part. I found it locally at a Toyota dealer, $170.02 for the 45280-60510 Bracket Assy, and $3.43 each for the 2 breakaway bolts(45897-12020). Also had to get a tow of about 20miles, so that cost me $85. The local Toyota dealer quoted me 2 hours of labor which he said amounted to $232, so I'm hoping my neighbor comes in well below that. He's a good guy so I'm sure he will.
So far that's $272.49 (with tax) and I'm hoping that my labor charge is $200 or less.
This is the first time my LX470 has ever left me stranded, it's an '02 so I guess that's pretty good.
Frustrating problem, but all in all not horribly expensive.
Update - got my truck back Friday afternoon, working fine now. He ended up changing the whole bracket and not just the rod as some on here seem to have done. I gave him $150 cash for doing it. So all in all, I'm under $500 for the repair.
He also said my telescoping steering wheel motor was toast, I guess I've never used that feature, but he could see the linkage was stripped. Something else to go on the list I guess.
He also said my telescoping steering wheel motor was toast, I guess I've never used that feature, but he could see the linkage was stripped. Something else to go on the list I guess.
Just happened to my 2000 (act '99mfg) with 150k on the clock. AAA locksmith came out & said the cast shaft broke. 2 days to get new one and then he puts in & has same prob, locks with key in, but not out! Disabled the lock so I can drive. Spoke to him tonight, he thinks the part is defective. I was thinking the same thing about it being out of sync, i.e. rotated 180. Could you describe how you can put the shaft in 180deg, or better yet a picture so I can steer him in the right direction. This has been gong on for over a week!
Thanks
PS. SHOULD HAVE READ A LITTLE FURTHER I SEE THE ROTATION ISSUE.
Thanks
PS. SHOULD HAVE READ A LITTLE FURTHER I SEE THE ROTATION ISSUE.
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