Bummer....

[cruiserdan]

Rolling up to a stop light on the way to work this morning and me motor is trying to gag.... Idle rapidly surging between 300 and 700 RPM... Crack the throttle open and it smooths out some....


Limp it to the store and hop out whilst it's trying to idle...Big sucking sound



Open the hood to find my beautifully booty-fabbed pressure switch/boost gauge pipe manifold thingy broken off where it screws into the intake plenum :whoops: Big vacuum leak for me.

So, a best way to remove the broken end of the brass pipe-thread bit stuck in me intake? Easy-out?


D-

 

[Big_Moose]

Dan

An "Easy Out" should work well to remove the soft brass threads. Your service department should be able to remove the broken part - if you trust them IF you used teflon tape the part will come out easy.

Why did the part break - fatigue from heat ??? Was this a part from the H2O kit?

Joe

 

[cruiserdan]

Joe,


Did use Teflon tape so I should be OK there. I'll do it myself, thanks..... In the parking lot of course. (Booty fab repair and all... )


It is not exactly part of the water injection package, the pressure switch that is attached to it is. In order to have the pressure switch and the boost gauge hooked up I have to have an extended pipe. that is probably why it popped off.

 

[Doc]

If you quit reving at the rice burners and trying to burn them at the lights you'd probobly have more life in that engine....

I haven't bought anything in a while... do you feel neglected? The cruisers have been running pretty smoothly so far, but maybe some wheeling next weeekend will take care of that.

*edit* I second the easy out idea.

 

[reffug]

Bummer Dan. Hope it didn't hurt anything.

 

[flintknapper]

Joe,


Did use Teflon tape so I should be OK there. I'll do it myself, thanks..... In the parking lot of course. (Booty fab repair and all... )


It is not exactly part of the water injection package, the pressure switch that is attached to it is. In order to have the pressure switch and the boost gauge hooked up I have to have an extended pipe. that is probably why it popped off.

If the inside diameter permits....I have had good results using a hacksaw blade to cut two slots 180 deg. apart (stopping just short of the threads) and then using an E-Z out that has only a slight taper. In soft materials this seems to relieve the stress and helps the E-Z out do its job.

Bummer? You must be of my generation....don't know what the kids say now.
Good luck!

 

[scottm]

What size pipe? Sounds like a small diameter, if so the hacksaw might be difficult. Getting shavings down the hole and risking damage to the threads are also possible downsides. These things usually break off below flush, ez-out is probably the first thing to try. It may help if the engine is still warm.

 

[cruiserdan]

It's 1/8 inch pipe threads. A blade will be no-worky. I have a brand new easy-out set in front of me at the moment. I'm about to trundle out and see what I can break....

 

[concretejungle]

dan, if you would so kindly post a pic of the mechanism. I enjoy seeing what goodies each of us have. It's so much easier to learn from a pic rather than a -- + description.

 

[cruiserdan]

Physician, heal thyself.........


All better, I'm a happy camper once again. I do not have the digi on me but I will snap a pic and post it later..........


D-

 

[Gumby]

I wouldn't even own easy-outs if it wern't for broken bress fittings. I replaced lots of air hoses when I worked on big trucks. It's all the damn things are good for.

Glad it worked out fer ya.

 

[Scamper]

So Dan...what you gonna replace it with? Same configuration? Or are you going to try to do something a little less stressful?

 

[sjcruiser]

All in all it was because of non-OEM parts used *doh*

 

[Brentbba]

Physicians never heal thyselves - Dad smoked until a heart attack killed him at 56 - he was an OB/GYN and knew better.

Now.....a great Yota Parts Manager is another story.....and it sounds like a successful one at that!

 

[cruiserdan]

So Dan...what you gonna replace it with? Same configuration? Or are you going to try to do something a little less stressful?

A re-design is in order. OTOH, it lasted for a year and a half before it checked out..


Yup, 'twas the non-OEM shiat that failed......Go figure that one...

 

[tarbe]

What a great attitude through it all. I wish I could have remained that cheerful at work today!

 

[Junk]

Rolling up to a stop light on the way to work this morning and me motor is trying to gag.... Idle rapidly surging between 300 and 700 RPM... Crack the throttle open and it smooths out some....

Could have been much worse, could have been my truck.

If you want OEM brass fittings, take a pipe wrench into the crapper at work tomorrow.

 

[Rich]

I'll betcha you had a bit of weight hanging off of a brass pipe right? If so, brass is subject to fatigue when used in manner and subjected to constant vibrations.

Without knowing the specifics I would suggest considering steel. Stainless if corrosion is a concern. Another approach if, weight attached to the piope is indeed a factor, is to mount the heavy bits to engine or body with a bracket and connect via a flexible tube to the replacement for the brass pipe.

 

[cruiserdan]

Rich,

You are a smart feller........ As promised, here is a pic (post repair of course).

One issue is the type of pipe thread. 1/8 NPT thread is a teensy bit bigger than the Japanese pipe thread. In other words a male Toyota pipe thread part such as an oil pressure sender wil fit into a female NPT, albiet deeper than normal. On the other hand a male 1/8 NPT will not fit in a female Toyota pipe thread, you need to open the thread up with a 1/8 NPT tap.
I did this to my intake plenum but I did not really cut it deep enough. The broken piece of pipe I retrieved was only about 2 1/2 threads deep. I did cut the hole deeper before I re-assembled the contraption.

An excelent idea about replacing it with steel. I'll try to find some.