Bumbles Bounce Don'tcha know..

[jynx]

Then put the bumper on to see how the hose and fittings were going to work. Looks like I should be good. So now I just have to cut down one of the factory hard lines and put a tubing adapter on and finish plumbing the new cooler in.

Then drop the trans pan, fresh filter and some fresh Ford Merc V. Then some test driving this week and a test pull next weekend I hope.


Not the best pictures, but before and after on the grill.

Plumbing tomorrow.

 

[jynx]

Plumbing is done.

Had to cut the factory hard lines to connect the 3/8 hose.

Cut off both lines, and used an Earls 5/16 to -6 tube fitting into a -6 to 3/8 barb adapter to make the hard line transitions.

Comes out of the radiator cooler, into aux cooler and then on the transmission.

Topped off with 2 quarts of Merc V, checked for leaks and then put the bumper back on and took a long spin around the block.

 

[jynx]

Decided I'd run it a few days this week and then do the trans filter this coming weekend.

He needs a bath, but he's still got it.

Now I just need to get the light bar wired and the front should be good for a minute.

Only thing I need to do is pull the grill and light back out and clearance the hood release a little. It seems to be about a half inch farther back then I think they expected and the release just contacts the back of the housing at the farthest part of the pull before it releases. A little trim with the cut-off wheel will take care of that.

But overall, I'm happy he's back on the prowl.

 

[jynx]

And all this made me realize that I really need to bring my workbench over from the barn and get the electrical sorted in the shop.

All this was done from the tailgate of Bumble...

 

[TeddyBoy]

looks good bud, rig has come a long way in the time you've had it.

 

[jynx]

Still need a switch to put in line, but I got the relay wired and the trigger wire pulled into the cab, so finishing it up should be pretty quick work from here.

In order Low -> high-> bar

Factory high -> bar

 

[jynx]

looks good bud, rig has come a long way in the time you've had it.

Thanks Ted. Look forward to seeing the tater tot.

 

[jynx]

Picked up a switch yesterday and got it wired in line this afternoon with a fused tap. If I can find a ground, it has a light on it, but it may be too bright, so I may just not worry about that.

And with that current projects are done. After GSMTR, I'll be on to something else I'm sure.

 

[tgreco]

Nice work! Which rig are you toting to gsmtr?

 

[jynx]

Nice work! Which rig are you toting to gsmtr?

Da Pig!

 

[jynx]

Hitched up the unloaded gooseneck this evening and went for a ride. Temps got up to 165, unloaded. I need to do the trans filter and fluid tomorrow, then do a loaded test to see how it handles.

 

[jynx]

Well Bumble has just been doing his thing. Put in gas, turn key, drive, repeat.

With the 80 running and driving, I decided I may as well knock out the tank install. I finally opened up all the boxes from Bronco graveyard.

33 gallon tank ( I went ahead and popped the new roll-over valve in)

Pump, sending unit, and mount

I still need get the wiring sorted, but otherwise got the unit together.

And just for giggles, I dropped it into the tank to see how it goes together.

So now with the tank unpacked, now the fun part, getting the bed off and the old tank out.

I did a little prep in the shop the get ready for that. I figure I'll do the cruiser shuffle and pull it in the shop this week and then pull the tail-lights and filler hoses and while I'm doing that, I'll soak the bed bolts in PB and say a little prayer that I can get them off without having to ruin them.

I figure I'll clean up the frame and give it a coat of paint while I have the bed pulled.

Fingers crossed I don't EF it up.

 

[jynx]

Well, the good Lord watches out for children and fools alike. Not sure which category I fall into, but I'll take my blessings in whatever form they might come.

All 6 bed bolt nuts came off without issue.

4 of the 6 bolts popped right out. The front 2 are in the bed tight, but the bed is free and can be lifted off. Tail lights are out. Just have to free the filler necks, remove the safety chain loops on the gooseneck and fish out the trailer plug and I should be ready to lift the bed off.

I spent some time rolling around underneath the truck tonight. Got some cleaning and tidying up to do before I can paint, but I'll know more once the bed is off.

 

[jynx]

Well, I wasn't sure when I started, but I managed. The battery on big tractor was D E A D dead. I think the switch got left on and killed it.

So Little John to the rescue.

I wasn't 100% sure it would work, and I got a little concerned when I realized the lift on the loader was maxed. Took a little acrobatic work to get the front over the tires without caving the cab corners, but I got it.

The rear frame is funky.

Pulled the gooseneck mount off.

The rear tank filler neck has what I can only assume is some type of special OE fungus on it. (Hard to see, but it is fuzzy) I'll clean up the metal pipe and replace the rubber hose and clamps.

I also have had a new set of energy suspension cab bushings for a couple years that I plan to install. I'd noticed the body lines didn't match really well, but now I have confirmed my suspicions.

I mean I guess 25 years is a pretty good run.

So now I need to pull it out and pressure wash the back half of the truck to get all the loose crud off, then I will start pulling the tank and hoses off. Wire wheel and hit the frame with some rust converter and some paint. Then start working the new tank arrangement in.

In looking it over, I may have to do a little fab work as the new tank is not a direct drop in, but is really close. Also, I may have to make a trip to the exhaust shop because it looks like the tailpipe may be trying to occupy the same space as the new tank.

I'm also going to look at just replacing the front tank while I'm at it. At the very least I need to pull the pump to look at the sender. It's been temperamental lately.

Got my work cut out, but it'll be nice to not have to stop every hundred miles while making those long road trips.

 

[jynx]

Well we spent all of the long weekend at my in-laws, so I didn't get to spend much time in the shop, but when we got back I did pull it out and got the back half pressure washed so it could be drying.

It cleaned up really well.

Should make removal of the tank much cleaner.

I pulled the rear shocks off and much to my surprise they do have a little life left in them. But the rebound is SUPER slow.

Then I went ahead and pulled the hitch side plates off to expose all the frame. Now to let it dry and then I will have to see what kind of work I can do with a wire wheel to knock off the rough stuff ahead of a coat of rust converter and paint.

Trying to figure out the way the fuel system works so I can pull the rear tank and then still pull it outside so I can work on the frame outside and not dust out the shop.

Probably going to pull the bumper and hitch to clean all that up while I'm at it. I have to be careful and not get crazy with the "while I'm in there" stuff.

 

[jynx]

Random note for myself:

Bilstein 33-185552
Extended: 25.930"
Collapsed: 15.910"
Travel: 10.020"

Shock I pulled
Extended: ~26"
Collapsed: ~16"
Travel: 10"

 

[jynx]

Pulled the rear bumper and hitch when we got home from my folks this afternoon.

So now nothing to keep me from draining that tank and pulling it out.

Noticed a couple wire taps that I'm going to try and clean up and I did set the tank on there to get an idea. I think I may need to fab a new crossmember to help locate the tank. It is a little shorter front-to-back so I may have to do something to make up the space. Also going to replace all the old hardware and clean up the bumper and I'm thinking about installing some flush mount lights in the bumper as aux back-up lights.

 

[jynx]

Moving this list here so I can review and see about getting some parts ordered.

• Ball Joints
• Stub shafts and u-joints -
• short inner shaft found it in the box with the knuckles
• bearings and seals, diff rebuild kit -
• tie-rods, drag link, etc.
• wheel bearings and seals
• inner axle seals -
• "V" code SD springs
• Sky RSK
• new u-bolts
• panhard mount
• panhard bar
• rebuilt calipers and pads
• rotors
• shock mounts
• D60 drivers side u-bolt plate
• Blue-top/ red head steering box
• diff cover

After the fuel tank is finished, this will be the next project for the Ford.

Getting the 40 back together and upgrading the cooling fan and fuel pump on The WarPig are also on the agenda for winter of '22.

 

[jynx]

Ordered a pile of parts from Sky and Bronco Graveyard this morning.

Was planning to swap the rear, but I decided I would just regear it to match the D60 I have. I also found that I can get an Eaton E-locker for a newer rearend and install in to have a selectable locker for the rear.

Still need a few things, but the parts pile is growing and I think I should have everything on the way to completely rebuild the axle and get it slung under the front-end.

 

[jynx]

Finally back in the shop for a minute. While listening to the freezing rain fall on the roof, I pulled out some of the parts boxes.

Gave the spindles a wire wheel and cleaned them up. Pulled the knuckles out and gave them a once over. Will press out the old ball joints and clean them up and put a coat of Ford blue on them and the C's. Then press in the new ball-joints in. I need to get new roller bearings to install in the spindles to press into them before I bolt them onto the knuckles.

Just for fun, FJ40 on left, D60 on right.

I also dropped out the guts of the housing. Got all new bearings and seals on the way.

I'll get the housing cleaned up and then get the carrier back together with fresh bits.
Things are starting to move on the 60 swap.