That’s great. I’ll have to do the same, thanks for the review. Do you know if they rebuild pumps too?
(Build) Penelope the HDJ81 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter clay763
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- #63
Have not updated in a while, not a lot has been done. New job keeps me very busy. Have been trying to solve a pretty loud tick / rattle that started after doing the injectors (see separate thread). Thinking the timing needs adjustment, havn’t had the timd to do it yet. DFIS has already offered to recheck the injectors, to ensure it isn’t on them, will likely send them back when I’m able to down the vehicle for a few weeks. That is if timing doesn’t remedy.
Also ran into issues with the front end, which came up due to state annual inspection. They failed it for “bearing play”. Upon my own inspection, the lug nuts were severely loose, but there was also a bit of bearing play. So we ended up here…
Upon disassembly, the 54mm nuts were loose as could be, thankfully the lock washer did it’s job.
The hubs were also dry as a bone. Whole situation ticked me off, since Toyota in Japan did a full BIRF rebuild on it two years ago before export.
Also ran into issues with the front end, which came up due to state annual inspection. They failed it for “bearing play”. Upon my own inspection, the lug nuts were severely loose, but there was also a bit of bearing play. So we ended up here…
Upon disassembly, the 54mm nuts were loose as could be, thankfully the lock washer did it’s job.
The hubs were also dry as a bone. Whole situation ticked me off, since Toyota in Japan did a full BIRF rebuild on it two years ago before export.
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- #64
Ordered all new hardware, dumped a tube of grease in both hubs, torqued the nuts to spec. Shout out to Family Adventures Overlanding for the great video on tightening the bearings (tighten, spin, tighten x3-4, half turn out, tighten to friction).
Spins smooth as butter now, not a hint of play.
Spins smooth as butter now, not a hint of play.
- Thread starter
- #65
Out with the old, sad, dampless Pro-comps…
In with the new…
A lot of consideration went into shock choice. Budget being one of the top constraints, BP-51’s and Dobinson MRR’s were out. In the sub-$200 per shovk range, not a lot of them were rebuildable, and this was a big ahock consideration in the choice.
In with the new…
A lot of consideration went into shock choice. Budget being one of the top constraints, BP-51’s and Dobinson MRR’s were out. In the sub-$200 per shovk range, not a lot of them were rebuildable, and this was a big ahock consideration in the choice.
- Thread starter
- #66
Presoaked the header nuts/studs for about a week before attempting to remove them.
Seems to have paid off, a few bleeding knuckles but no broken studs or rounded nuts. Even with the soaking, many required a propane torch as well, especially the less accessible ones.
No signs of a leak, but either way, all new studs and gaskets will go on.
According to charts, 21/64’s is the “right” size hole to drill and tap 1/8” NPT… but it was a brutal slug fest to actually tap it. I think 11/32’s is more reasonable in the future.
1/8th of a turn in… 3 turns back, rinse and repeat.
Seems to have paid off, a few bleeding knuckles but no broken studs or rounded nuts. Even with the soaking, many required a propane torch as well, especially the less accessible ones.
No signs of a leak, but either way, all new studs and gaskets will go on.
According to charts, 21/64’s is the “right” size hole to drill and tap 1/8” NPT… but it was a brutal slug fest to actually tap it. I think 11/32’s is more reasonable in the future.
1/8th of a turn in… 3 turns back, rinse and repeat.
- Thread starter
- #67
Finally got around to doing the BEB job, prompted by an oil analysis with lead. Not much wear on what was in there, replaced with ACL Duraglide bearings, new conrod bolts, new hardware around the oil pan.
Hardest part was certainly the oil pan, between getting it off, cleaning it off, then reinstalling. To remove it, I carefully slid a razor blade around the perimeter, once enough was cut it popped off fairly easy. Would have been much easier on a lift...
Reinstall was done with the help of my wife. She held the front, I did the back. We briefed the install, practiced it many times until we found the right way of sliding it in without smudging the FIPG. Placed a bead of FIPG all the way around, then executed. Tightened finger tight, let it cure, then torqued it to spec.
Was mandatory to remove the front sway bar, helpful to remove the steering damper, skid plates.
Hardest part was certainly the oil pan, between getting it off, cleaning it off, then reinstalling. To remove it, I carefully slid a razor blade around the perimeter, once enough was cut it popped off fairly easy. Would have been much easier on a lift...
Reinstall was done with the help of my wife. She held the front, I did the back. We briefed the install, practiced it many times until we found the right way of sliding it in without smudging the FIPG. Placed a bead of FIPG all the way around, then executed. Tightened finger tight, let it cure, then torqued it to spec.
Was mandatory to remove the front sway bar, helpful to remove the steering damper, skid plates.
Do you remember the part number on this piece? I went to partsouq and found an OEM part but I want to be sure. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #69
I went non-OEM, so any part # I give ya will be from partsouq. Just put your model (HDJ81V-RNPEX is mine) into partsouq.
Ok, yes, I have my truck vin in Partsouq. When I go to the “mounting” parts diagram, there are a number of options based on either the FJ80 or HDJ80/81. I will take the parts number and do a search just to make sure I get the right part.
Sorry to see your truck being sold. Japan is a great place. I used to frequent western Tokyo quite often when I was married, even took the kids there as babies. Good luck.
Same order/layout on my HDJ81.
- Thread starter
- #72
Dealt with some rust underneath the rear fixed windows. Looked pretty benign from the outside, but was heinous underneath. Took a good bit of time to grind down to bare metal, fill the divots, and repaint, but hopefully the fresh paint will keep the rust at bay.
I'm curious why that is such a common spot.
What's it take to pull the window? I need to work on that this summer
What's it take to pull the window? I need to work on that this summer
Would you mind providing the number for the “high lead” in your oil prompting the BEB change? I just did a Blackstone analysis and am curious on the amount of lead that you had. Did Blackstone recommend anything? Thanks.
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- #75
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- #76
23 PPM compared to 1 PPM on the last report.
Ah ok, yes, that’s a large increase. I had 6 ppm with an average of 4 ppm. Thanks for posting.
I think my last report was 10 or 12 and they told me to start watching oil pressure and listen for noises, but that if everything seemed fine it may just be high wear for now, I plan on changing mine this summer again
You have changed them before? What was the mileage interval been when you changed them?
- Thread starter
- #80
The aussies suggest changing every 100k km. It’s a PITA but cheap.
