(Build) Penelope the HDJ81 (3 Viewers)

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Highly recommend changing the transmission mount if you have not already. Made an instant improvement in the vibrations and overall quality of drive, for what can be a 30 minute job.

If your cross beam bolts are rusted, spray some penetrant on a few days before you do the job. Mine were hideous, but came right off after sitting with PB Blaster.
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I did not go genuine, if it fails its an easy swap. Motor mounts will certainly be OEM though.
 
Finally changed oil and filter again. Trying the Kirkland signature conventional 15w40 to see how my engines tick responds. Will update later.
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Any idea how the Kirkland 15W-40 is working out for you? I haven’t seen that pop up too much on here.
 
Any idea how the Kirkland 15W-40 is working out for you? I haven’t seen that pop up too much on here.


Here's a good resource for oil info




The consensus is, it's a solid oil.
 
Here's a good resource for oil info




The consensus is, it's a solid oil.
Any idea how the Kirkland 15W-40 is working out for you? I haven’t seen that pop up too much on here.

I have not been terribly impressed. YMMV. I’ve noticed a drop in fuel economy as compared to the T6 full synthetic that was in it. Mind you its only been two tanks, so sample size is small. But mostly the engine is a lot louder/ticky-er. Highest priority for me right now is sorting out my BEB’s, might be the source of tick.

Certainly worth a shot to see if your motor likes it. Can’t argue with the price.
 
I have not been terribly impressed. YMMV. I’ve noticed a drop in fuel economy as compared to the T6 full synthetic that was in it. Mind you its only been two tanks, so sample size is small. But mostly the engine is a lot louder/ticky-er. Highest priority for me right now is sorting out my BEB’s, might be the source of tick.

Certainly worth a shot to see if your motor likes it. Can’t argue with the price.

Have you actually done an oil analysis or are you just going off feeling and perceived sound?

Oil should cause no change in fuel economy, at least not a noticeable level.

I've run rotella, delo and delvac and seen zero change in economy. And I log each trip meticulously
 
Have you actually done an oil analysis or are you just going off feeling and perceived sound?

Oil should cause no change in fuel economy, at least not a noticeable level.

I've run rotella, delo and delvac and seen zero change in economy. And I log each trip meticulously
I have not done an oil analysis. She is an early 1990 model, if the BEB’s have not been changed, it’s more likely than not they will need to be.

I went from getting 600k’s out if a tank to just over 550. Like I said, ymmv.

I daily mine, so I’m either neurotic, or pretty in tune with all the little noises it makes. Or both.
 
I have not done an oil analysis. She is an early 1990 model, if the BEB’s have not been changed, it’s more likely than not they will need to be.

I went from getting 600k’s out if a tank to just over 550. Like I said, ymmv.

I daily mine, so I’m either neurotic, or pretty in tune with all the little noises it makes. Or both.


I daily mine too. I also know that you can't judge an oil until you see the analysis. To many people think they hear new noises or don't hear old noises.

A 9% change in overall economy can be attributed to a change in idle time, speed, tire inflation.
Hell I saw a 7% change just adding exhaust.
 
Update on the electrical setup, got some goodies in from Blue Sea and Solvefunction.

Fuse block, wired directly to the USPS battery.
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Used this to provide power to the new head unit, and hopefully relieve some load from the dome circuit.

Blue Sea double USB, replaced the cig lighter, used blade connectors to keep stock plug.
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Solvefunction USB port to provide wired Carplay function to the head unit. Great fit and build on that little piece of gear.
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Finally completed the winch mount not too long ago, its been obscenely hot here day and night, mixed with thunderstorms, so progress is slow.

The Badlands 12k winch was a bit bigger than the bumper was designed for. I took it by a weld shop with the intent of having them weld a new mount plate about an inch further back, but we decided it would cause more issues than it solved. In the end I decided to notch the bumpers stinger to accommodate the winch.

Mocking up for fit.

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Finally got some trail time with the cruiser, hit a local trail (Bald Mountain, Virginia), consisting of about 10 miles of rocks, switchbacks, some mild steps, and a lot of water holes.
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The trail was long, but nothing challenging. The T4R is stock on 32’s, Penelope is on 31’s. The LC did significantly better at the rock steps, simply because of gearing. The 4Runner really liked to jump over, while the LC just walked up.

The only thing I wanted for was on board air, bigger tires, and better shocks.
 
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This is the risk you run with spacers… to be fair, these were a fairly budget Japanese domestic brand, nor do I know the age.

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Much better, what I had been intending but just hadn’t pulled the trigger on yet. I wanted 17’s, but tires are not in the budget at the moment.

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Plus, these 31’s still have a good year on them.
 
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Had a great first camping trip with the 80. Custom drawer setup is still in tuning, same with the on board water. Was pleasantly surprised with 19 MPG on the freeway, even with the CVT awning and Yakima box. She also had no problem holding 70+ mph the whole way.

I think some of my MPG problems (about 15-16 over the last few months) may have been low quality diesel from 7/11. I've made a point to use BP or Exxon for the last few tanks, and have noticed much better results.
 
Working through a pretty extensive top end refresh, injectors, a lot of hardware, manifold gaskets, and now that I broke one… glow plugs. More pictures to follow.

Getting ready for tear down.

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I got enough flexibility in the fuel lines to replace the manifold gasket and hardware by removing this bracket and loosening the top two fuel lines at the IP.
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Got the injectors back on Saturday from DFIS in PDX. $656 for the testing, replacement of all 6 tips, rebuild, and retesting/shimming. Two tips were hopelessly buggered, sticking open. The other four could probably have been saved, but for the cost I just replaced.

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They included new o-rings, and the brass hardware on both ends, which was a nice touch. Now I have extra hardware though…

Also re-removed my ACSD that Toyota in Japan hard reinstalled when rebuilding my pump. What a pain that is.

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More to follow when I receive new glow plugs and get to start this thing.
 
Got the injectors back on Saturday from DFIS in PDX. $656 for the testing, replacement of all 6 tips, rebuild, and retesting/shimming. Two tips were hopelessly buggered, sticking open. The other four could probably have been saved, but for the cost I just replaced.

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They included new o-rings, and the brass hardware on both ends, which was a nice touch. Now I have extra hardware though…

Also re-removed my ACSD that Toyota in Japan hard reinstalled when rebuilding my pump. What a pain that is.

View attachment 3265738

More to follow when I receive new glow plugs and get to start this thing.


Yes sir. The acsd is less than fun.
 
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All back together, and up and running. Little bit of a rough start, but to be expected after 6 weeks of sitting. But we took it out for a ~150 mile drive, got it all smoothed out.

We’ll see over a few tanks how the fuel mileage has changed (if at all), but DFIS said several injectors were essentially stuck open dripping, and none had a good spray pattern. The butt dyno tells me power is significantly restored.

For those of you with a 1HD-T, this whole procedure is very simple, and I can’t recommend DFIS PDX enough. Highly suggest doing it if you have not.

Total for me was $656 with all new tips.
 
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All back together, and up and running. Little bit of a rough start, but to be expected after 6 weeks of sitting. But we took it out for a ~150 mile drive, got it all smoothed out.

We’ll see over a few tanks how the fuel mileage has changed (if at all), but DFIS said several injectors were essentially stuck open dripping, and none had a good spray pattern. The butt dyno tells me power is significantly restored.

For those of you with a 1HD-T, this whole procedure is very simple, and I can’t recommend DFIS PDX enough. Highly suggest doing it if you have not.

Total for me was $656 with all new tips.


It's on my list of pre-sunmer maintenance for sure.


I forget, how many km's?
 

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