Build an extension / modular ending for a 2" OD tow or cargo square bar? (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

Picture the typical 2" OD square bar that fits in a hitch receiver. I am thinking about making a "coupling" for those using a 2" ID square tube like the typical receiver tube. Applications would be to extend an existing bar for a cargo basket, or to have a modular ending system where I could change the attachment coupler on a 2" OD square bar trailer tongue. So, going from 2"OD to 2"ID to 2"OD. Being able to dismantle the thing easily would be a plus (i.e. hitch pins over bolts).


I'm trying to avoid having to do custom machining and welding, but I'm thinking that using off-the-shelf tubing like the usual 2" ID receiver tubes may be problematic. Seems like there is a fair amount of tolerance between those and the typical 2" OD bar, so a coupling would be sloppy with only one pin or bolt on each side unless I'd use tighteners of some kind. I suppose that having 2 pins on each side would help with that but I don't want too much stress on the pins, it should be on the tube instead. A wedge maybe? The tube would have also to be pretty thick to avoid damage I would think, some of the 2"ID receiver tubes I see are downright flimsy.

Anybody built something like this successfully with off the shelf parts?

 

[Tobiasinla]

Picture the typical 2" OD square bar that fits in a hitch receiver.

They make "drawbar" tubing just for this. If you buy 2" square tubing, you will have to knock the corners off of it to make it fit. I had fun informing the engineers this while the welders were busy wasting time grinding to fit.

Anybody built something like this successfully with off the shelf parts?

So you looking for something like this?

Hitch Extender Hitch Accessories | etrailer.com

Granted I have found them cheaper elsewhere,

Hitch Extender For 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver 7" $44.95

Hitch Extender for 2" Trailer Hitches - 8" Long $46.95

Hitch Extender For 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver 18" $63.95

Hitch Extender with Step for 2" Trailer Hitch Receivers 18" $105.95

 

[e9999]

They make "drawbar" tubing just for this. If you buy 2" square tubing, you will have to knock the corners off of it to make it fit. I had fun informing the engineers this while the welders were busy wasting time grinding to fit.



So you looking for something like this?

Hitch Extender Hitch Accessories | etrailer.com

Granted I have found them cheaper elsewhere,

Hitch Extender For 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver 7" $44.95

Hitch Extender for 2" Trailer Hitches - 8" Long $46.95

Hitch Extender For 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver 18" $63.95

Hitch Extender with Step for 2" Trailer Hitch Receivers 18" $105.95

yes, they sell "receiver" tubing just for that but it's a sloppy fit and they typically have fairly thin wall (1/8" ?) that might not do so well for an extension coupling

something like in that site but I need the "big" tube removable. Those extensions are welded.

and I want the big tube to either fit the 2"OD tube fairly tightly or I'll need to make something so it does not flop around too much.



Basically, the question is: how do I make it easily, be versatile and modular, and not flopping around?

 

[Rubiconcruiser]

Another company, Northern Tool Co.

 

[ntsqd]

I've yet to have a 2" square piece of tube (of any wall thickness) that didn't just slide into whatever receiver I happened to have handy.

I'm having trouble with figuring out what you want to do with something like this. Why does the receiver part need to be removable?

FWIW the C.U.T. has a receiver tube welded to the tongue that currently only a ball coupler slides into. We added a second pin hole so that it wouldn't wobble. It doesn't wobble enough to notice going down the road and only barely wobbles by hand.

 

[e9999]

I've yet to have a 2" square piece of tube (of any wall thickness) that didn't just slide into whatever receiver I happened to have handy.

I'm having trouble with figuring out what you want to do with something like this. Why does the receiver part need to be removable?

FWIW the C.U.T. has a receiver tube welded to the tongue that currently only a ball coupler slides into. We added a second pin hole so that it wouldn't wobble. It doesn't wobble enough to notice going down the road and only barely wobbles by hand.

yes, that's because the receiver tubes are usually oversize, which is what I don't want.

so I can use it more than one place for more than one use. I have 2 trailers and a motorcycle carrier that could all use something like that for various reasons.
(and also if it's removed from a tongue it'll be much less likely the trailer could be stolen).

yes, 2 pins should help if drilled carefully. I may end up doing that. Or try to figure out a wedge system to prevent the flopping around.

 

[ntsqd]

I use a system like the old bicycle "gooseneck" to create non-wobbling bike racks etc, but I don't know how you might be able to employ that concept in your application.

One of the prime reasons that we made the coupler removable on the C.U.T. was to thwart theft. In our case the coupler is mounted to a 2" tube and the receiver is welded to the frame, but there's no reason that it couldn't be done the other way around. With enough engagement length and maybe a second pin I doubt that you'd see enough actual use wobble to be much of a concern. Some ball couplers are made for tube sizes larger than 2", shimming one of those to a receiver tube would be a lot easier than shimming inside a receiver tube.

 

[e9999]

I use a system like the old bicycle "gooseneck" to create non-wobbling bike racks etc, but I don't know how you might be able to employ that concept in your application.

One of the prime reasons that we made the coupler removable on the C.U.T. was to thwart theft. In our case the coupler is mounted to a 2" tube and the receiver is welded to the frame, but there's no reason that it couldn't be done the other way around. With enough engagement length and maybe a second pin I doubt that you'd see enough actual use wobble to be much of a concern. Some ball couplers are made for tube sizes larger than 2", shimming one of those to a receiver tube would be a lot easier than shimming inside a receiver tube.

a wedge kind of deal eh?
I do have an anti-rattle device but it only works with a receiver tube that has the reinforcing lip. There are some other types though, like the partially-threaded bolts. I could make my own by tapping the inner tube holes and use a partially threaded pin; or tap the outer sleeve if thick enough and just put a bolt in to push against the inner tube. The latter would be easy and free. But all not as fast and easy as just a hitch pin or 2.

I don't want a ball coupler, I need a lunette or a double Ujoint type of deal since I use the trailers offroad.

How thick is the wall of your receiver tube?

 

[Brian in Oregon]

Just weld some 1" long beads on two sides of the tube, like top and one side, and grind them down until they just enter the tube. This will remove any slop. If you're really ambitious weld the beads on all four sides.

As for your extension idea, it sounds like a shorter version of my trailer extension.

 

[e9999]

Just weld some 1" long beads on two sides of the tube, like top and one side, and grind them down until they just enter the tube. This will remove any slop. If you're really ambitious weld the beads on all four sides.

As for your extension idea, it sounds like a shorter version of my trailer extension.

Clever! I do like the beads idea. Especially since that might tie in nicely with the seam that's usually found in the 2" ID tube.

Not so sure about your improvised pintle hook above, though...

 

[western flyer]

this might help

e9999,

I think a hitch stabilizing pin might be of considerable help to you here. I use a Silent Hitch Pin on my hitch with success. No slop with 900 lb. trailer.

RVedition.com - Products - Silent hitch pins

Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories

No-Rattle Trailer Hitch Wedge for 1-1/4" and 2" Trailer Hitches by Boone Outdoor Hardware Boone Outdoor Hitch Accessories 93347

Draw-Tite J-Pin Stabilization Pin and Barrel Lockset for 2" Trailer Hitches Draw-Tite Locks,Hitch Accessories 63201

 

[Dell]

Trimax sells anti-rattle pins/locks...
they work great to tighten up any play.

Here's my bolt on extension w/Max Coupler set up.
of course... it did require some weld work

If you've an interest to see more...
look Here
The coupler mods began at Page 4, post 152

The anti rattle pins/locks are covered on page 9 I think

 

[Brian in Oregon]

Clever! I do like the beads idea. Especially since that might tie in nicely with the seam that's usually found in the 2" ID tube.

Not so sure about your improvised pintle hook above, though...

What's wrong with the pintle hook?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/187703-rotating-pintle-hitch-install-fj40.html

 

[Dell]

^ I think that user didn't realize your pintle hitch turns.
and was wondering how you were getting away with a solid mount lunette

just my guess as he referred to it as a pintle hook

 

[e9999]

What's wrong with the pintle hook?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/187703-rotating-pintle-hitch-install-fj40.html

ah, I see, that is neat. but from the pic above, it sure looked like you had just set the lunette on a regular ball

(I guess I better not comment on the missing hitch pin then... )

 

[Brian in Oregon]

ah, I see, that is neat. but from the pic above, it sure looked like you had just set the lunette on a regular ball

(I guess I better not comment on the missing hitch pin then... )

Didn't need a second pin until I test fit the extension. Ooops.

 

[CrackedCranium]

I built this it works very well.

 

[ntsqd]

snip..........
How thick is the wall of your receiver tube?

A bit late.....
It is a normal socket receiver tube, so w/o having measured it I'll guess .250"
On a semi-permanent install I have run a bead of silicone down the outer corners of the slider and then slid it into place and pinned it while the RTV sets up. Makes removal difficult, but not impossible. That slider did not rattle the whole trip down Baja for the '01 B1k (our pit was at Race Mile 616).

 

[e9999]

A bit late.....
It is a normal socket receiver tube, so w/o having measured it I'll guess .250"
On a semi-permanent install I have run a bead of silicone down the outer corners of the slider and then slid it into place and pinned it while the RTV sets up. Makes removal difficult, but not impossible. That slider did not rattle the whole trip down Baja for the '01 B1k (our pit was at Race Mile 616).

250 is as thick as they come I think. Heavy but feels good. I've seen more than a few that are thinner, though.
Silicone eh? Good idea. You'd think that would not hold very long. Interesting. Could you use mild heat to help separate them or would that be counterproductive?

 

[ntsqd]

About 1/2 way down Baja they wanted to swap trailers around, but my siliconed-in slider had a different drop from what the other trailer needed. We couldn't get the slider out by hand. I got it out at home by chaining it to my Xcab's shackle slider and then gently pulling on it with the Sub's engine while using the Xcab as an anchor.