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sparkplug said:
Yes.

It would look even better on a white 40 with 35's. Pretty sure there is a guy in the club with one.:hhmm:
Click to expand...

you're right, it would look good on a white 40 with 35s :cool:


right now theres a certain white 40 on 35s that i know of that is under the knife getting some nice parts installed for the sicily island run july 4th.
 
Caveat Emptor....since I am getting ready to move I needed to get the family cage that I bought last fall out of the garage and into the 40. The bedliner was applied while the stock cage was in, so I spent a day peeling it off of the bolts and removing them. Some were alot tighter than others, but I didn't feel like there was a bind on them. maybe there was some locktite on them.

Anyway, after I pull the old cage off, I recruited a friend to put the new one in. This was definitely not a one man job. We get the cage in, I had to remove the dash pad....and find out that the rear bolt patterns do not match the stock bolt holes...and I can't close the hard doors...

I always said my first 40 taught me patience....I am relearning a few of those lessons now!

As I see it my options for the doors are (a) run a soft top and soft doors (not sure if they are narrow enough to fit) and (b) somehow modify the hard doors to make the leading edge thin enough to close with the cage in.

For the bolt holes...(a) fill in the old holes and drill new ones (not my first choice if I want to sell it sometime down the road) or (b) cut the flanges off of the cage and weld on new flanges with the correct bolt pattern/spacing (I think this is the right way to do it, but I'll have to think about how I will avoid having the flanges set off kilter and not lining up with the holes in the wheel well.)

I guess I will have to rig up something in the new garage to lift the cage out of the tub...maybe a setup similar to scott's hard top hoist...just one eye bolt going into an attic beam, and then an inexpensive chain hoist off of that?

Two things I did notice, family cages look cool and the stock roll cages are really light. I'd be hesitant to trust one.
 
moomtazz said:
Caveat Emptor....since I am getting ready to move I needed to get the family cage that I bought last fall out of the garage and into the 40. The bedliner was applied while the stock cage was in, so I spent a day peeling it off of the bolts and removing them. Some were alot tighter than others, but I didn't feel like there was a bind on them. maybe there was some locktite on them.

Anyway, after I pull the old cage off, I recruited a friend to put the new one in. This was definitely not a one man job. We get the cage in, I had to remove the dash pad....and find out that the rear bolt patterns do not match the stock bolt holes...and I can't close the hard doors...

I always said my first 40 taught me patience....I am relearning a few of those lessons now!

As I see it my options for the doors are (a) run a soft top and soft doors (not sure if they are narrow enough to fit) and (b) somehow modify the hard doors to make the leading edge thin enough to close with the cage in.

For the bolt holes...(a) fill in the old holes and drill new ones (not my first choice if I want to sell it sometime down the road) or (b) cut the flanges off of the cage and weld on new flanges with the correct bolt pattern/spacing (I think this is the right way to do it, but I'll have to think about how I will avoid having the flanges set off kilter and not lining up with the holes in the wheel well.)

I guess I will have to rig up something in the new garage to lift the cage out of the tub...maybe a setup similar to scott's hard top hoist...just one eye bolt going into an attic beam, and then an inexpensive chain hoist off of that?

Two things I did notice, family cages look cool and the stock roll cages are really light. I'd be hesitant to trust one.
Click to expand...

Who made the cage?
Can you modify the cage to fit and not your doors?
Stock roll bars do work.
Sorry to hear it was not a :banana:job. That sucks.
 
moomtazz said:
Caveat Emptor....since I am getting ready to move I needed to get the family cage that I bought last fall out of the garage and into the 40. The bedliner was applied while the stock cage was in, so I spent a day peeling it off of the bolts and removing them. Some were alot tighter than others, but I didn't feel like there was a bind on them. maybe there was some locktite on them.

Anyway, after I pull the old cage off, I recruited a friend to put the new one in. This was definitely not a one man job. We get the cage in, I had to remove the dash pad....and find out that the rear bolt patterns do not match the stock bolt holes...and I can't close the hard doors...

I always said my first 40 taught me patience....I am relearning a few of those lessons now!

As I see it my options for the doors are (a) run a soft top and soft doors (not sure if they are narrow enough to fit) and (b) somehow modify the hard doors to make the leading edge thin enough to close with the cage in.

For the bolt holes...(a) fill in the old holes and drill new ones (not my first choice if I want to sell it sometime down the road) or (b) cut the flanges off of the cage and weld on new flanges with the correct bolt pattern/spacing (I think this is the right way to do it, but I'll have to think about how I will avoid having the flanges set off kilter and not lining up with the holes in the wheel well.)

I guess I will have to rig up something in the new garage to lift the cage out of the tub...maybe a setup similar to scott's hard top hoist...just one eye bolt going into an attic beam, and then an inexpensive chain hoist off of that?

Two things I did notice, family cages look cool and the stock roll cages are really light. I'd be hesitant to trust one.
Click to expand...

Yep, thats the beauty of companys like Metaltech, Iron Pig and etc they prefit everything at their shop so its drop in and ready to roll.

You don't want to drill new holes unless you tac in some new support pads. The support pads under the fenderwells that the factory bar bolts into. I've seen it done and will tell you without those pads any good pressure on the bar will push the bar right through the metal on the fenderwells.

(b) cut the flanges off of the cage and weld on new flanges with the correct bolt pattern/spacing

I'd also cut the front and bring it in so your doors and dash pad clear. Soft doors and softtop are fine if you want them but personally I'd want to build the cage to fit the rig, and not modify the rig around the cage. Just my .2 bud


If you cut the feet off the rear buy 4 of these (or cut the old ones off your exisitng bar) bolt it down where it should be then center the rear bars on the 4 pads and tac it. They're already bent for the raised ribs on the fenderwells.

oemmount.jpg


Iron Pig Off Road : Toyota 4WD experts Metaltech also has them just not pictured.

You asked about frame tie-ins as well. Iron Pig Off Road : Toyota 4WD experts





 
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personally I'd want to build the cage to fit the rig, and not modify the rig around the cage. Just my .2 bud

I'm digging to show you a few things that may help. :)

[/QUOTE]


Yep!

bring mo-hamed to the mount not the mount to mo-hamed:)

c i didn`t use any et-nik words:D
 
Isaac, I bought it from a guy here on mud. I think he said it was a kit that he put together.

I took a close look at lunch. There is a horizontal crossbar that is about even with the dash pad. I think I could cut the tubing below the crossbar and move each side inboard enough to get the doors to close. The upper part does not interfere with the upper part of the doors/windows, so it can stay put. I may have to bend the bottom section that I cut off to regain some leg/foot room.

What is a good method of busting a weld? I was thinking of using a pencil grinder with a cutoff wheel, then a 4" grinder to clean off the old weld.
 
moomtazz said:
Isaac, I bought it from a guy here on mud. I think he said it was a kit that he put together.

I took a close look at lunch. There is a horizontal crossbar that is about even with the dash pad. I think I could cut the tubing below the crossbar and move each side inboard enough to get the doors to close. The upper part does not interfere with the upper part of the doors/windows, so it can stay put. I may have to bend the bottom section that I cut off to regain some leg/foot room.

What is a good method of busting a weld? I was thinking of using a pencil grinder with a cutoff wheel, then a 4" grinder to clean off the old weld.
Click to expand...

That would work or the grinder with a cutoff wheel works good too.
 
I am little :mad: at B&M today they told me my rear end is going to cost between $700.oo & $800.oo :eek: Iam in the wrong line of work.I took it off the truck. What the :censor:!!
 
moomtazz said:
Isaac, I bought it from a guy here on mud. I think he said it was a kit that he put together.

I took a close look at lunch. There is a horizontal crossbar that is about even with the dash pad. I think I could cut the tubing below the crossbar and move each side inboard enough to get the doors to close. The upper part does not interfere with the upper part of the doors/windows, so it can stay put. I may have to bend the bottom section that I cut off to regain some leg/foot room.

What is a good method of busting a weld? I was thinking of using a pencil grinder with a cutoff wheel, then a 4" grinder to clean off the old weld.
Click to expand...

I talked to my buddy today and he said he will fix your cage for free. He is a welder and about to get in the club. He is the guy that has the member of my family. My old FJ-60. PM me for details.
 
sparkplug said:
I talked to my buddy today and he said he will fix your cage for free. He is a welder and about to get in the club. He is the guy that has the member of my family. My old FJ-60. PM me for details.
Click to expand...
Was he the same friend that came to the meeting last week?
 
What did Mike said it all needed? I would have thought about $150 or so for the ring & pinion set and another $50 for the bearings and install kit. Labor $150 :hhmm:
 
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