My 2010 LX570 starter went dead at 125125 miles.
You need set of regular battery jumper cables (will use one leg only) and separate stiff insulated battery cable, 4 AWG - you can possibly get away with 6AWG but not smaller. Flattened cardboard box to lay under the truck and keep your self and butt clean. Safety first - if successful - you would be under running truck.
Failure point on the old starter is almost alwys the starter solenoid so your starter motor is still good and Yes you can start your car using bit of a kamikaze “grandpa” method. DO at your own risk warning applies - this is not for the light hearted method but for off-roaders stuck in the wild - could be the only method. It is very doable and could be easier removing plastic under cover (6x12mm bolts) but we were successful starting the truck without removing it.
Known taped screwdriver method maybe tough angle to execute, especially with undercover on due to tough angle and very little copper being exposed on the original factory starter (replacement starter would have a lot more - Thank you Toyota)
I used piece of Ancor marine grade 4 AWG wire terminated with lugs - stiff but playable enough to get it done). i taped (electrical tape) around one lug all the way to the top just leaving the very top edge exposed. In the pinch Walmart battery cable might do but tinned marine cable is stiffer. Wire length 3-4 feet is enough. I would not recommend removing lugs at all, just tape one all the way to the top edge, the shape of the taped lug helped guiding the cable to the correct spot, you can even create little ball out of tape around the lug to make sure it would not touch grounded steel body of the starter motor.
From battery positive run just one leg (use red one for ID) of separate battery jumper cable under the car and lay down on the ground close to front passenger side tire, away from frame or metal. Parking break ON - safety first. Get under the car and find the starter, You would barely see a bit in narrow void between heat shields, look for crack like void between starter motor and starter solenoid - not much to see but what you can see is exactly what you need. Put insulated leg of not yet energized marine cable (good flashlight in your teeth) to the exposed part of 2 inch wire from starter solenoid to starter motor, exposed copper section is under half inch on factory starter. You would see it but access is tight. Once you get exposed end of taped lug on copper hold it there tight with your right hand. Right hand as I got under the truck from behind passenger wheel well and position myself on my left side with head looking up- it is a squeeze. Grab second end of marine cable with fully exposed lug and hold it in your left hand next to positiive clamp of emergency jumper cable by the tire. Do not make contact yet - have helper start the car as usual, with break pedal and push button - same as you do every time - and yell Ready - you have 5 seconds while ignition and injectors are energized - Touch your left hand lug to the energized clamp of the jumper cable by the tire and hear that wonderful sound of your starter turning. Release left hand connection as soon as it starts. Good Luck!
If you see any sparks / fireworks by the starter you grounded the wire to frame of the starter - release left hand ASAP - make sure you are touching just the exposed copper. This method is safer than putting clamp on the screwdriver as you are making contact by touch and can release your hand quickly. Still DO AT YOUR OWN RISK - $200 tow is not the end of the world.
Extra tips- make sure your helper does not release break pedal until car fully starts.
One helper is a must - Having 2 helpers would make things evem easier.
Your battery is likely weak, the way solenoid breaks is that it still draws high amperage as you make unsuccessful starting attempts and you likely made several. Make sure battery has at least 12.3 -12.5v - if not use booster pack on it. This method requires good voltage kick.
If your car shuts down after helper releases the break pedal - it is normal- if you replaced or just disconnected your battery - you would have to start again as it is how car acts after disconnecting the battery - something to do with ECU initialization or immobilizer system - always the case after you replace battery.
We did initially try tapping the solenoid with piece of wood but that did not work for us.
Good Luck!
In the first photo you can actually see burn mark at the tip of the lug where it made contact to the starter motor wire. Second photo shows how to insulate the wire lug - make sure side edges and top corners are fully coverd with tape. Third photo shows you the brown piece of exposed copper cable you need to touch in the center of the red circle.
I would also try to post few tips on starter replacement later - took us 8 hours - 5 to access and remove old starter and 3 to install new one with everything put back on. We did not remove the exhaust manifold - just lowered the catalytic converter. Not a beginner wrencher job for sure, I would rate about 6.75 difficulty level on the scale 1-10 and the only reason is below 7 is because all the bolts cooperated after soaking with PB Blaster overnight - no heat was required .
You need set of regular battery jumper cables (will use one leg only) and separate stiff insulated battery cable, 4 AWG - you can possibly get away with 6AWG but not smaller. Flattened cardboard box to lay under the truck and keep your self and butt clean. Safety first - if successful - you would be under running truck.
Failure point on the old starter is almost alwys the starter solenoid so your starter motor is still good and Yes you can start your car using bit of a kamikaze “grandpa” method. DO at your own risk warning applies - this is not for the light hearted method but for off-roaders stuck in the wild - could be the only method. It is very doable and could be easier removing plastic under cover (6x12mm bolts) but we were successful starting the truck without removing it.
Known taped screwdriver method maybe tough angle to execute, especially with undercover on due to tough angle and very little copper being exposed on the original factory starter (replacement starter would have a lot more - Thank you Toyota)
I used piece of Ancor marine grade 4 AWG wire terminated with lugs - stiff but playable enough to get it done). i taped (electrical tape) around one lug all the way to the top just leaving the very top edge exposed. In the pinch Walmart battery cable might do but tinned marine cable is stiffer. Wire length 3-4 feet is enough. I would not recommend removing lugs at all, just tape one all the way to the top edge, the shape of the taped lug helped guiding the cable to the correct spot, you can even create little ball out of tape around the lug to make sure it would not touch grounded steel body of the starter motor.
From battery positive run just one leg (use red one for ID) of separate battery jumper cable under the car and lay down on the ground close to front passenger side tire, away from frame or metal. Parking break ON - safety first. Get under the car and find the starter, You would barely see a bit in narrow void between heat shields, look for crack like void between starter motor and starter solenoid - not much to see but what you can see is exactly what you need. Put insulated leg of not yet energized marine cable (good flashlight in your teeth) to the exposed part of 2 inch wire from starter solenoid to starter motor, exposed copper section is under half inch on factory starter. You would see it but access is tight. Once you get exposed end of taped lug on copper hold it there tight with your right hand. Right hand as I got under the truck from behind passenger wheel well and position myself on my left side with head looking up- it is a squeeze. Grab second end of marine cable with fully exposed lug and hold it in your left hand next to positiive clamp of emergency jumper cable by the tire. Do not make contact yet - have helper start the car as usual, with break pedal and push button - same as you do every time - and yell Ready - you have 5 seconds while ignition and injectors are energized - Touch your left hand lug to the energized clamp of the jumper cable by the tire and hear that wonderful sound of your starter turning. Release left hand connection as soon as it starts. Good Luck!
If you see any sparks / fireworks by the starter you grounded the wire to frame of the starter - release left hand ASAP - make sure you are touching just the exposed copper. This method is safer than putting clamp on the screwdriver as you are making contact by touch and can release your hand quickly. Still DO AT YOUR OWN RISK - $200 tow is not the end of the world.
Extra tips- make sure your helper does not release break pedal until car fully starts.
One helper is a must - Having 2 helpers would make things evem easier.
Your battery is likely weak, the way solenoid breaks is that it still draws high amperage as you make unsuccessful starting attempts and you likely made several. Make sure battery has at least 12.3 -12.5v - if not use booster pack on it. This method requires good voltage kick.
If your car shuts down after helper releases the break pedal - it is normal- if you replaced or just disconnected your battery - you would have to start again as it is how car acts after disconnecting the battery - something to do with ECU initialization or immobilizer system - always the case after you replace battery.
We did initially try tapping the solenoid with piece of wood but that did not work for us.
Good Luck!
In the first photo you can actually see burn mark at the tip of the lug where it made contact to the starter motor wire. Second photo shows how to insulate the wire lug - make sure side edges and top corners are fully coverd with tape. Third photo shows you the brown piece of exposed copper cable you need to touch in the center of the red circle.
I would also try to post few tips on starter replacement later - took us 8 hours - 5 to access and remove old starter and 3 to install new one with everything put back on. We did not remove the exhaust manifold - just lowered the catalytic converter. Not a beginner wrencher job for sure, I would rate about 6.75 difficulty level on the scale 1-10 and the only reason is below 7 is because all the bolts cooperated after soaking with PB Blaster overnight - no heat was required .
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