Broken Rear Upper Shock Mount Tube

[digitalmo]

Hi All. So I hit a serious section of washboard on the weekend and broke both ends off the rear upper shock mount tube where it attaches at the frame. Both ends are severely rusted and would have gone sooner or later anyway. What I need to know is how can I fix this myself? I've got a welder and was thinking of welding new sections of slightly larger tube over top of the ends of the original tube. These would have to be long enough to weld to a secure rust free section of the existing tube. Then once done that thought I could weld the new reinforced tube onto a piece of steel plate which I would then weld onto the frame, as sections of the original tube are still wedged into the frame where it broke off preventing me from inserting anything into the original location.

This seems like a lot of work. Has anyone else ever had to make this fix and if so can you advise if there is an easier way? I don't have the coin to take it to a pro.

 

[acer]

I replaced the cross bar in my BJ after it rusted out w/ a section of square tubing with small plates on each end. Grind the old rusted tube off of the frame, get a good measurement, and build a new cross piece. You will have to mount the shock mount pins to the new bar. Pretty simple, and worked well.
Good luck
J

 

[CTFJ]

Mine came without one- someone had seriously romped on it and broke it off the frame on both sides (rust probably helped).

I bought a junked one- cut it out with the frame rail chunks still on it.

I had considered fabbing one, but I didn't have any good measurements as to the angle and geometry of the upper shock mount pins.

The trick to welding mine in was that the brake and fuel lines are so close on the passenger side.

 

[Poser]

Did this repair for a customer:

 

[Poser]

Customer had a clean section of frame dropped off with their truck. I removed the fuel lines, brake lines and shocks. Cut the old junk out of the frame with a plasma cutter, fit the new tube into the frame and welded it. Driver side frame needed to be opened up just a bit larger than the tube to permit fitment into the frame as it was from the factory, but I used 3/16” steel and made some reinforcement pieces for where the tube meets the frame and welded them to the frame and the tube.

The worst part of the bit was touching the brake lines and fuel lines, which caused them to start leaking; but they needed to be replaced anyhow.



Brake line and positioning clamp....




Rust is so much fun.

 

[jeepgod]

Why do our trucks rust so bad?

 

[digitalmo]

I replaced the cross bar in my BJ after it rusted out w/ a section of square tubing with small plates on each end. Grind the old rusted tube off of the frame, get a good measurement, and build a new cross piece. You will have to mount the shock mount pins to the new bar. Pretty simple, and worked well.
Good luck
J

Thanks, this sounds a lot easier than what I had in mind. Do you happen to have any pics you could post showing the new attachement to the frame, and/or showing how you fixed the shock mount pins to the new bar? This is all a bit new to me, my other Crusier doesn't have any rust issues to deal with...yet, and I don't have any real experience in body/frame work, although I knew when I bought the 60 that I would soon have to learn. Am also curious to know if you've taken it off road a fair bit since you did the work. Has it held up under pressure? Our plan is to use the 60 for all our local offroading so that we can a) save on fuel and b) save on wear and tear on the 80, keeping it in shape for the longer treks with all the gear.

 

[Mark W]

This is one of the simplest fixes you will find....


Get a piece of 11/4 schedule 40 pipe. Cut it to match the outside width of the frame plus about 1/2 inch or so. Grab your biggest hammer, stick the pipe in the hole on the outside of the frame where the original cross member was and drive it through. Once it is driven all the way through the other side, weld shock pins on and weld it into the frame for good measure.



I have done this on a couple of 6x series.


Cheaper than dirt, quick, simple, easy and perfect function.

If you do not have a welder, drill the pipe for bolt in shock pints (or bolts) before you install it. You can weld it to the frame whenever you get around to it.... could *probably* rely on the friction fit to keep it in anyway if you wanted to.


Mark...

 

[digitalmo]

Hey Mark. Now why the hell didn't I think of that?! It seems so simple it's almost too good to be true. I'll give it a shot this weekend and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice!

 

[lehiguy]

One issue I always disliked was the limited shock length that I could fit on the rear of my 60. After ruining my stock rear mounts, I got a 2.5" by 2.5" square tube, welded some heavy brackets to it with a shock mount stud welded into the top of that. I wedged it between the frame rails up high and to the rear of the original with the shock mount stud up close to the body where the sheet metal rises up to its highest point just in front of the gas tank. Now the shocks lean just a tad rearward (they don't hit anything) and I gained several inches of shock length in doing this to accommodate as much articulation as possible. A very good mod in my opinion.

 

[acer]

Thanks, this sounds a lot easier than what I had in mind. Do you happen to have any pics you could post showing the new attachement to the frame, and/or showing how you fixed the shock mount pins to the new bar? This is all a bit new to me, my other Crusier doesn't have any rust issues to deal with...yet, and I don't have any real experience in body/frame work, although I knew when I bought the 60 that I would soon have to learn. Am also curious to know if you've taken it off road a fair bit since you did the work. Has it held up under pressure? Our plan is to use the 60 for all our local offroading so that we can a) save on fuel and b) save on wear and tear on the 80, keeping it in shape for the longer treks with all the gear.

I cant find any pics this morning, will look after work. Tghe plates on the end of the square tube are slightly smaller than the width of the frame, I moved the brake and fuel lines, clamped the bar and plates between the frame members, welded the plates to the frame(albeit carefully), and good to go. I welded the spring mount pins at the correct location( although, as lehiguy mentioned, you can move the pins to your desired location). The crossbar dosen.t actually take alot of impact unless you are flexing very hard,and bottoming out the springs in both directions a lot, so mine has held up very well, the rest of the truck has continued its downward rusty spiral however! I was chastised by some mudders for over building the bar, but hey, big is good!
Sorry for the ramble, but hope it helps!

 

[JamesR]

This same thing happened to me a couple of days ago - shock mount broke off on both sides. I heard some strange/scary noise coming from the rear. Crawled under it and saw the breakage, the tube bent, looks like a brake line is broken. This fix sounds pretty straight forward. I'm a little hesitant about fixing it myself. I'll look at the frame tomorrow, in the light. The pipe fix seems pretty straight forward. I'll keep ya'll posted.

 

[JamesR]

I don't know much about working on frames. It seems to be if you punch a couple of holes in the frame you are creating a weak spot.

 

[brian]

I don't know much about working on frames. It seems to be if you punch a couple of holes in the frame you are creating a weak spot.

not so much. frames are nothing special.

 

[cruisedeisel]

I think the Japanese sold us all the Trucks made of the radio active recycled Hiroshima rebar. Just my theory

 

[cruisedeisel]

Im pretty sure this is the first fix i do on all the cruisers i buy. Salty canadian hwy's.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Well this doesn't explain how to fix your frame but.... I fit 10" shocks by extending the shock mounts on the cross member. On a custom made frame.

 

[JamesR]

This is one of the simplest fixes you will find....


Get a piece of 11/4 schedule 40 pipe. Cut it to match the outside width of the frame plus about 1/2 inch or so. Grab your biggest hammer, stick the pipe in the hole on the outside of the frame where the original cross member was and drive it through. Once it is driven all the way through the other side, weld shock pins on and weld it into the frame for good measure.

I have done this on a couple of 6x series.

Cheaper than dirt, quick, simple, easy and perfect function.

If you do not have a welder, drill the pipe for bolt in shock pints (or bolts) before you install it. You can weld it to the frame whenever you get around to it.... could *probably* rely on the friction fit to keep it in anyway if you wanted to.

Mark...

Okay ... I feel really, really, stupid...after reading and rereading this I think I finally understand. I first thought (please don't share this with anyone)...that Mark meant drill holes on the outside of the frame and then pound the pipe though the rusted part until it went through the other side of the frame. I know what you guys are thinking...be kind... and be glad I don't teach your children... Here's what I think I figured out... he meant to cut the pipe longer than the inside frame rails actual measurement. Place the pipe on the inside frame rails and use a large hammer to drive the pipe into the holes of the removed shock bar and finally, weld everything in place.
Okay...I can do that.

 

[hj 60]

Just read some more because many have welded it before.
Mine was welded inside but not outside so had to do that, slammed a 42mm pipe in it and welded around.
good luck,

 

[JamesR]

Now that I've gotten under my 60 and looked at the broken shock bar, here's my question. A member suggested using a 2in tube to slide through the frame...it looks like a PO did that but only used about 6 inches of the 2 in pipe/tube and then used a small diameter tube to splice the original shock mount to the 2 inch tube. Is 2 the "magic number" for tube diameter? I could slide a slightly smaller diameter tube through the welded 2 inch tube already in place on both sides of the frame and weld grade 8 bolts to the tube I slide through to serve as upper shock mounts.