Broken Down - Shredded belt - Live Help Please!
- Thread starter bemerritt
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm doing the same job today. Replacing the original radiator.
Got to the point of installing the water pump. But I'll not be able to finish as I'm waiting for the fan clutch support to come in the mail. Made the mistake of not ordering one thinking it should still be good, but it starting to make a little bit of noise that I found after removing the belt. I don't want to do all this work again until another 100K so I'm willing to wait for it.
I also found out that the advice of needing 2gal of coolant is wrong. Even 3gal is not enough. After radiator and block drain, I got a bit over 3gal in my bucket and that does not include whatever is on the driveway. Need to do a trip to local dealer to get a bottle (pricing same as online, but not for parts). I could probably swing it with some distilled water if I have to.
Got to the point of installing the water pump. But I'll not be able to finish as I'm waiting for the fan clutch support to come in the mail. Made the mistake of not ordering one thinking it should still be good, but it starting to make a little bit of noise that I found after removing the belt. I don't want to do all this work again until another 100K so I'm willing to wait for it.
I also found out that the advice of needing 2gal of coolant is wrong. Even 3gal is not enough. After radiator and block drain, I got a bit over 3gal in my bucket and that does not include whatever is on the driveway. Need to do a trip to local dealer to get a bottle (pricing same as online, but not for parts). I could probably swing it with some distilled water if I have to.
- Thread starter
- #24
Well, $1000 of parts loaded into a cart to be ordered tomorrow. This was staring at me today, not happy that it will now take a brief back seat to my wrenching time/$$$
Plan is to do the full radiator/water pump/tensioner/idler/fan bracket treatment
Need to pull codes with a reader and make sure it all checks out
Send a sample of oil out for analysis, very glad i just installed the easy drain, can pull a small-ish sample. WIll have to research best methods to ensure the sample is representative of the whole volume.
Assuming the sample comes back negative, put it back together, fire it up and hope for the best while monitoring temps. Do some easy driving, and check that all is well.
Am i missing anything? If the above checks out, any reason to go thru with more headgasket failure checks?
I am somewhat new at doing my own work, most of my experience is rebuilding the above as well as doing the tundra swap . So I am very open to comments/suggestions/criticism
Plan is to do the full radiator/water pump/tensioner/idler/fan bracket treatment
Need to pull codes with a reader and make sure it all checks out
Send a sample of oil out for analysis, very glad i just installed the easy drain, can pull a small-ish sample. WIll have to research best methods to ensure the sample is representative of the whole volume.
Assuming the sample comes back negative, put it back together, fire it up and hope for the best while monitoring temps. Do some easy driving, and check that all is well.
Am i missing anything? If the above checks out, any reason to go thru with more headgasket failure checks?
I am somewhat new at doing my own work, most of my experience is rebuilding the above as well as doing the tundra swap . So I am very open to comments/suggestions/criticism
Last edited:
interesting. Dealer recently replaced my radiator under warranty, and i'm wondering how they managed with my dissent...
You got this! After you strat it up closely monitor coolant level and engine temps. If there are issues then troubleshoot depending on what you get.
When you pull the oil sample let it drain a bit before collecting it. Otherwise, you get skewed results because of what is at the bottom of the pan. Let it poor for a while and then collect directly from the stream, not from the pail. Just measure how much you extracted and add new.
Don't forget the thermostat (it comes with the gasket). The radiator comes with the cap and top foam, no need to order separately. Also water pump comes with the gasket and the water inlet housing gasket. These are all OEM parts. For aftermarket parts you have to research it yourself.
Get enough coolant. I used a bit more than 3gal. Given the boiling over you may have lost more than that.
Do NOT flush the coolant (water, air, etc.) as we used to do in older Toyota's or you're asking for trouble refilling the system.
Last edited:
BTW while you are in there replace the PCV valve. It is cheap and easy to do. If you need to replace the engine air filter add it to the cart.
As for the oil I would just replace it after the overheat event. If you do, add oil filter to the cart. They are cheap. If you did not do the aluminum oil filter housing conversion it is a very good idea as you are doing the work anyway. It is very simple.
As for the oil I would just replace it after the overheat event. If you do, add oil filter to the cart. They are cheap. If you did not do the aluminum oil filter housing conversion it is a very good idea as you are doing the work anyway. It is very simple.
bloc
SILVER Star
Make note of any stumbling or white/sweet smelling smoke coming out of the exhaust on first start after the repair.
- Thread starter
- #29
Well, its all back together somewhat drama free. One code related to coolant temp/voltage, so cleared that and started it up. Took it for a test drive and all seems well. Still need to check the oil, but tomorrow taking it to get the trans flushed.
What did cause drama was that damn driverside drain plug. This bugger.
Yeah, thats on my bench, not where it is supposed to be. accidentally over spun it on the reverse and it came out. DO NOT DO THIS! it is terrible getting it back in. Still not sure how I was able to do it with a frankenstein of extensions, wobbles and tape to make sure i didnt lose it, which i did once.
Also, a couple months ago I had mentioned that I found a mysterious part on my skid plate when changing my oil. It was pointed out to me that it was the cover for my idler pulley. Almost certainly not related, but maybe a sign???
So not out of the woods yet, but on the road to recovery. Have a trip out to the boonies in one month, so need to gain some confidence that all is well before then. Thanks for all of the help, overally the radiator job was rather straightforward. Just lost a lower support bolt in the support, so need to get one of those. Fun fact, one of my bottoms was not bolted, but i did find that bolt in the rail.
What did cause drama was that damn driverside drain plug. This bugger.
Yeah, thats on my bench, not where it is supposed to be. accidentally over spun it on the reverse and it came out. DO NOT DO THIS! it is terrible getting it back in. Still not sure how I was able to do it with a frankenstein of extensions, wobbles and tape to make sure i didnt lose it, which i did once.
Also, a couple months ago I had mentioned that I found a mysterious part on my skid plate when changing my oil. It was pointed out to me that it was the cover for my idler pulley. Almost certainly not related, but maybe a sign???
So not out of the woods yet, but on the road to recovery. Have a trip out to the boonies in one month, so need to gain some confidence that all is well before then. Thanks for all of the help, overally the radiator job was rather straightforward. Just lost a lower support bolt in the support, so need to get one of those. Fun fact, one of my bottoms was not bolted, but i did find that bolt in the rail.
Yeah I had dual rubber bands holding those bottom bolts on a socket plus extension, no idea how one or both didn’t decide to go running. My lucky day I think.
- Thread starter
- #31
So drove it about 200 miles and for the most part everything seems ok. Last drive during our so cal heat wave (80F) the AC was struggling to keep up. Cold air was still being blown, but I had it maxed out and it was not as cold as it can get.
Soooooo, place your bets:
1. Somehow it got affected by overheating
2. When i moved the AC lines to get the fan bracket out I tweaked it a little too much and some refrigerant leaked out
3. I damaged/cracked a line/connection when i moved them and am slowly leaking refrigerant.
Curious what your next steps would be. CO-worker says he has everything to charge the system and check for leaks.
Thanks for any advice!
Soooooo, place your bets:
1. Somehow it got affected by overheating
2. When i moved the AC lines to get the fan bracket out I tweaked it a little too much and some refrigerant leaked out
3. I damaged/cracked a line/connection when i moved them and am slowly leaking refrigerant.
Curious what your next steps would be. CO-worker says he has everything to charge the system and check for leaks.
Thanks for any advice!
When doing AC is important to troubleshoot before jumping to conclusins. Far too often people just recharge refrigerant when that is not the problem. AC is a bit more complicated than that. Get the gauges and watch some videos about that and see what you get.
The overheat event should not have affected the AC, unless somehow the compressor pulley/axle was damaged in some way.
You should not discount this being just a coincidence.
As I said get the tools if your friend doesn't have them already and get some readings. That would be my next step.
The overheat event should not have affected the AC, unless somehow the compressor pulley/axle was damaged in some way.
You should not discount this being just a coincidence.
As I said get the tools if your friend doesn't have them already and get some readings. That would be my next step.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The problem with serpentine belts is they always look good.
The only way to check them is when they run with the smooth side of the belt against an idler or tensioner, then you will see cracks at 90° across the ribs.
As soon as that is seen replace the belt.
Regards
Dave.
The only way to check them is when they run with the smooth side of the belt against an idler or tensioner, then you will see cracks at 90° across the ribs.
As soon as that is seen replace the belt.
Regards
Dave.
- Thread starter
- #34
Well, still waiting on the oil analysis, but going to happily report all seems well.
Did a trip up to the Eastern Sierra area this past weekend and it went off without a hitch. Drove through 100F weather up the 395 and then drove 17 slow miles in 4lo up to 10,500 feet. Great way to gain confidence in the repair.
Did a trip up to the Eastern Sierra area this past weekend and it went off without a hitch. Drove through 100F weather up the 395 and then drove 17 slow miles in 4lo up to 10,500 feet. Great way to gain confidence in the repair.
Ah nice. I know that spot. I've been meaning to make it out there again.
Coyote flats or Laurel lakes? No idea they are open yet
