Broke an axle today, Need tool and parts list for repair. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NelsonCruiser
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You could run it.
But you'll get a lot of slop/backlash in the driveline.
You'll have accelerated wear on the remains of this splines, and probably ruin new flanges.
Plus, you'll be digging back into that slop in short order to do what really needs to be done now
100% agreed. You're in there, change the birf out (outer shaft).
If one side looked like that, the other side is likely on the way as well. Depends what your budget is, but I wouldn't assume the other side is "just fine". Or hell, throw full RCVs in both sides and don't worry about it again.
- Thread starter
- #25
Is there a way to just replace the birf without the replacing the whole cv?100% agreed. You're in there, change the birf out (outer shaft).
If one side looked like that, the other side is likely on the way as well. Depends what your budget is, but I wouldn't assume the other side is "just fine". Or hell, throw full RCVs in both sides and don't worry about it again.
- Thread starter
- #26
I’m trying to get the birf off with the pipe method and I cannot get it off any suggestions?
Better off getting replacements including the inner axle and birf.....one and done
The joint has a cage with 6 big ball bearings in it and a center star shaped component that connects to the inner shaft. I know RCV makes rebuild kits that includes all of those components for their aftermarket axles. I'm sure @cruiseroutfit can tell you if there are similar rebuild kits for stock (I assume there are). Kit will look similar to this:
Bear in mind those balls also wear on the inside of the bell end of the stub axle (I can't believe I just said bell end seriously). That component can be worn as well and replacing the guts might not be enough to completely cure the problem. The outer shaft would replace the splines you showed in your pictures as well as the bell and the internal components. If I was in your boat, that's the minimum I'd replace.
Full Stub + birfield joint (picture includes the straight inner axles too that lock in to the star on the Birf):
Hope that helps.
Bear in mind those balls also wear on the inside of the bell end of the stub axle (I can't believe I just said bell end seriously). That component can be worn as well and replacing the guts might not be enough to completely cure the problem. The outer shaft would replace the splines you showed in your pictures as well as the bell and the internal components. If I was in your boat, that's the minimum I'd replace.
Full Stub + birfield joint (picture includes the straight inner axles too that lock in to the star on the Birf):
Hope that helps.
Clamp the axle in a soft jawed vice with the stub pointing down. hit the back of the bell with a big dead blow or brass hammer while holding the stub with the other hand. Should pop right off.
- Thread starter
- #30
K thanks I’ve been talking to them. I might get new cvs but I would like to re use the axle.
Pipe method works less-well on the short axle side.
- Thread starter
- #32
Im doing the long side.
I pop mine with a hammer. More reliable than the pipe method, especially with tight clips.
I've used both methods. Sometimes they won't budge what ever you hit them with.
Careful clamping in a vice. If the axle slips through the jaws, can leave gouges in the axle ( don't ask me how I know
)
iptman
SILVER Star
What are you dropping the pipe on? I've never had an issue using a 2 inch PVC pipe slamming it on a 2x6 laying flat on the garage slab. You do really need to slam it too.
- Thread starter
- #36
Tried it on pvc now using a steel pipe with plate on the top with a hole and it still won’t budge.
As mentioned above, don't be afraid to hit it hard.
Be sure to put a piece of wood at the bottom of the pipe if you plan on reusing your axle shafts, but as everyone else has said they look like they're done, better to replace everything with new. If money is tight maybe check around for a set of good used components??
This is hard to see but he's just tossing it down in-between the jaws of a massive vice spaced so that the bar will drop through but the CV joint won't (might be safer to have plastic or aluminum jaw pads so as not to mar the axle shaft where the seal rides):
Be sure to put a piece of wood at the bottom of the pipe if you plan on reusing your axle shafts, but as everyone else has said they look like they're done, better to replace everything with new. If money is tight maybe check around for a set of good used components??
This is hard to see but he's just tossing it down in-between the jaws of a massive vice spaced so that the bar will drop through but the CV joint won't (might be safer to have plastic or aluminum jaw pads so as not to mar the axle shaft where the seal rides):
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If you make your separator tool long enough for the long side, it'll work for the short side, too. So you'll only need one tool. That's what I did.
- Thread starter
- #39
Well I’m just going to buy a complete axle today. It’s not as expensive as I thought.
You might want to invest in a separator tool as decribed for future axle maintenance. I just used mine as an extention on my breaker bar to loosen a fill plug on my rear diff that got extremely tight somehow. It's real simple: length of galvanized pipe, 2" in diameter by 36" long. Valuable tool for 80 owners that maintain their own rigs....it's paid for itself many times over!
