Brakes for Downhill Application

[Island80]

What are the best brakes I can get for going downhill/down mountain with my Toyota Landcruiser 1993 FJ80? I have recently put on some drilled and slotted R1 Concepts brakes that seem to do a better job then the last ones and that recover better when heated. Still, I would love to not lose brakes at all going downhill. I work in the mountains on dirt and 2 track roads. No mountain rail guards to be seen at all.

I just did the first run uphill for about an hour this last week. The test is the way down. The brakes made it almost all the way and I admittedly used them more to see how they would do. They ended up smoking badly but the recovering much more quickly and responding to pumping much more quickly as well. Still, do you know what the most powerful brakes available for an FJ80 in a downhill use case?

 

[IanB]

Do you have the larger '93+ brakes already? Are you gearing down to use engine braking instead of relying on your brakes entirely?

 

[jonheld]

I just did the first run uphill for about an hour this last week. The test is the way down. The brakes made it almost all the way and I admittedly used them more to see how they would do. They ended up smoking badly but the recovering much more quickly and responding to pumping much more quickly as well. Still, do you know what the most powerful brakes available for an FJ80 in a downhill use case?

As already stated, you really should be downshifting the transmission in cases like this. Brakes are a system. Just changing pads and rotors is only part of the equation. In a high stress application like what you're describing, the brake fluid will start to boil and you will have brake fade.

Allow the transmission and the engine to control the majority of the speed and you will need less brake input. The best piece of equipment is the one behind the steering wheel.

 

[livinoffroad]

Good advice posted already.

Use the tranny to hold you back.

As far as brakes, I experienced a significant improvement, when I installed some Aussie rotors and pads.

The rotors are 1/4" larger in dia., and still fit inside the brake backing plate nicely. They are ventilated, and slotted. The brand is DBA, and the model is 4784. The pads are PBR brand, model 4WD, a semi-metallic composition.

Both are sold thru Man-a-Fre. Some folks have had mixed experiences with Man-a-Fre. I've had good luck with them.

My emotionally volatile daughter-in-law was driving my 80 while she was upset one day and remarked to me when she returned it to me that she slammed on the brakes, and almost went thru the windshield, which, for a 3 ton beast, is quite a feat.

My "driveway" is a 10% grade, switchbacking mountain dirt road 1.5 miles long, so my brakes get a workout everyday.

I've been very happy with these brakes, and the front pads last 50K, when stock lasts 15-30K. HTH

 

[itbrokeagain]

What about 100 series pads?

 

[livinoffroad]

What about 100 series pads?

They are an improvement over stock 80 organic pads, as I believe Toyota went to a semi-metallic composition for the 100 series.

Many 80 owners on this forum have upgraded to them.

 

[steffan]

Why aren't you downshifting? If you insist on using your brakes and keep going through them, you could step up to some bigger custom rotors (would require bigger wheels), put some ducting to get more air on the rotors. If your really worried, you could get some water cooled brake calipers or step up to cabin rotors - those things love the heat