Brake ? (1 Viewer)

[REDDER1]

I rebuild my front calipars today and installed new rotors and pads.

Good News..it stops!

But, even though i bled the brakes 2 times..they still feel mushy. I only bled the front ones and I did not touch the rear ones at all. Thoughts? Should I drive around then bleed again?

Also..the are gripping well. there is a 'gripping/groan' sound on the brakes when i stop. Will this go away once they get broken in?

Finally, I didnt have a spring to test the preload. I torqued the lock/adjuster nuts to FSM specs and spun the disc to make sure it wasnt locked up. It seems ok. How critical is the preload? Can i get away with riding around until i get the spring tool?

Thanks..I am trying to wrap this project up.

Joe

 

[Beowulf]

I rebuild my front calipars today and installed new rotors and pads.

Good News..it stops!

But, even though i bled the brakes 2 times..they still feel mushy. I only bled the front ones and I did not touch the rear ones at all. Thoughts? Should I drive around then bleed again?

Also..the are gripping well. there is a 'gripping/groan' sound on the brakes when i stop. Will this go away once they get broken in?

Finally, I didnt have a spring to test the preload. I torqued the lock/adjuster nuts to FSM specs and spun the disc to make sure it wasnt locked up. It seems ok. How critical is the preload? Can i get away with riding around until i get the spring tool?

Thanks..I am trying to wrap this project up.

Joe

Joe,

First, you need to bleed all 4 corners PLUS the LSPV any time you open the system. Start from the bleeder furthest away from the master cylinder.

RR, LR, RF, LF, LSPV is the sequence usually recommended. My '97 FSM is silent on the LSPV but this sequence works so go with it.

You can get the spring gauge in the housewares section at Harbor Freight. It's about $8.

You should follow the agressive bedding procedure that we have discussed numerous times. 10 successive stops from 60 to 5 MPH with HARD braking. In between stops, you should drive around and let the rotor and pads cool off. There is a good link that describes the procedure in more detail (posted by Raventai I think.)

As for the preload... if your bearings are not loose (test with the 12-6 push-pull method) and you're sure they're not too tight (excessive heat) then you can drive it a few days until you get the gauge. Many on this list (and all experienced mechanics) set the preload by "feel." A spring gauge gives those of us less experienced a metric to shoot for.

When bleeding your brakes, put a wood block underneath the pedal so you don't bottom out and force the master cylinder piston past bottom. This has been the cause of several people having to rebuild their master cylinders. Don't forget to remove it before the test drive.

-B-

 

[REDDER1]

Great!
thanks for the advice B.

Take care,
Joe

 

[REDDER1]

B,
Forgive my ignorance..but, what is a "LSPV"?
Thanks,
Joe

 

[cruiserdan]

Load

Sensing

Proportioning

Valve


The gizmo above the rear axle that determines the ammount of braking force distributed to the rear axle, based on vehicle load.

 

[REDDER1]

Oh..OK.
Thanks!

Is that LSPV difficult to bleed?

 

[Rookie2]

B,
Forgive my ignorance..but, what is a "LSPV"?
Thanks,
Joe

Lacking
Search
Procedure
Vigilance



LSPV has the same bleeder as the other parts of the line. It does seem to collect more rust, so you may want to PB Blast it before hand.

 

[REDDER1]

F
U
Rookie
2


BLAHAHAHA

 

[Junk]

Load sensing proportioning valve (or something close to that). It's the arm on the ds that goes from top of the axle to the ds. It's the one you adjust when you lift the truck etc.

 

[Beowulf]

Load sensing proportioning valve (or something close to that). It's the arm on the ds that goes from top of the axle to the ds. It's the one you adjust when you lift the truck etc.

Johnnie on the spot there Junkerooo.

-B-

 

[toddslater]

Quick question, if you bleed the 4 corners properly, shouldn't any air in and/or around about the LSPV be pushed out of the system as well ?

 

[concretejungle]

Quick question, if you bleed the 4 corners properly, shouldn't any air in and/or around about the LSPV be pushed out of the system as well ?

In a perfect world.

 

[John E Davies]

Bearing preload tool:

Get a small, cheap fish scale at any sporting goods store or bait shop. Hang a gallon milk jug (full of water) from the scale and make a mark. That's 8 pounds. Dump out half and make your other mark. That's 4 pounds. Go set your bearing preload.

The cheap scale works just fine for this type of job, but the original scale markings are fantasy - probably why fishermen tell so many lies....

Store your tool in a secure place and recheck the calibration marks before the next bearing job to be safe.

John