Brake rotors: OEM, slotted, or drilled- how are they holding up long-term

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 28, 2010
Threads
10
Messages
29
Location
TriState
I am looking to get some info of what members of the forum are using along with the long term durability/brake performance of their setup.

I am currently thinking about replacing rotors, lines, and pads with OEM.

Just thinking is there anything better after 20+ years of technology? I have been specifically interested in slotted rotors.

My truck is a 97 lx450.
 
I'm sure you're gonna get mixed recommendations on this question. I use all OEM brake parts myself. For the type of driving I do, I see no need for high performance rotors (drilled and/or slotted) and non-organic brake pads. The majority of my driving is on paved streets (back and forth to work and around the local neighborhood), with occasional off road driving (unimproved roads and trails).
 
ive stuck to oem rotors and upgraded the pads to the lc100, same pad backing size more friction area. calipers I went with norwood remans since I get them cheep through work. if you replacing the rotors don't forget to get you seals and repack the wheel bearings
 
If you plan on wheeling it in the mud, and rivers, and small debris (sand), don't get slotted and drilled, as they actually will pick up and retain mud and rocks in the grooves and holes. If you're 95% city hwy and mall crawling like me as a DD, then you can do drilled and slotted if they are less expensive (that's what I did...Powerstop thru Summit Racing)
 
If you plan on wheeling it in the mud, and rivers, and small debris (sand), don't get slotted and drilled, as they actually will pick up and retain mud and rocks in the grooves and holes. If you're 95% city hwy and mall crawling like me as a DD, then you can do drilled and slotted if they are less expensive (that's what I did...Powerstop thru Summit Racing)
I have the same rotors. I've put about 12K miles on them. Done 200+ miles offroad consisting of all that you mentioned (mud, rivers, sand, dirt/dust) & have yet to have a problem. I've heard a lot of people say what you said but haven't seen any proof of it.
 
I went with the slotted that Slee sells, and 100 series pads. Made a huge difference in stopping power and have had no problems are warping of rotors in 12K miles.
 
I did replace all my fluid wit Dot4 along with brake lines from slee .. but just the fluid flush and re fill with fresh new fluid will make the difference ..
 
Interesting this thread comes up. I did a TON of research on brake rotors, brake pads, and now rubber/stainless lines. I purchased Akebono pads for my Nissan Maxima many years ago and loved them. They had great initial bite and took at least 3 90-0 stops to get them to fade. Naturally when the LC needs brakes, I go straight to Akebono pads again to replace the millimeter thick OEM pads. I noticed that the bite wasn't as good but the braking was consistent. I continue driving on them for more than a year knowing they aren't as good as OEM.

About a month ago I noticed that when the pads were cold, it took significantly more pedal pressure to stop the truck. No big deal. Coming out of the neighborhood one day, the truck almost didn't stop at the stop sign. Warmed up the truck braked fine, but almost every single time they got cold, braking performance was bad to scary.

I knew the rotors needed to be replaced and with 20 years on OEM rotors (well past minimum) I could not find any reason to go with anything else. Sure, NAPA rotors are cheaper, DBA promised better performance, slotted cleans the pad surface, and drilled helps with out gasing but Toyota did it right the first time. I have yet to read a report of warped OEM rotors (unlike my Maxima).

OEM rotors it was and the glowing consensus on brake pads seemed to be EBC green stuffs. I read numerous posts on better braking with green stuffs than OEM and one post that said with green stuffs and OEM rotors he had no problem slamming on the brakes and almost lifting the rear tires.

I replaced the rear rotors and pads only. The caliper slide pins were rusty and missing boots and they had to be polished and greased properly. A simple brake job turned into an all day affair. Needless to say I had to bed the brakes in. I start slow and brake but never fully stopping. I progressively go faster until I can do 70mph and get on the brakes pretty good.

The OEM rotors and green stuff only in the rear made a dramatic difference in braking performance. Each stop was clean and consistent. I never felt that slow to stop sensation or had to apply more pedal pressure. Even at low speeds, the brakes feel stronger. I can't wait to replace the front rotors and pads.

I examined the Akebono rear pads and noticed a very hard slick surface. I have a feeling that the weight of the Land Cruiser was too much for the pads and causing them to heat up and glaze over after cooling.

--------------------------

TL;DR Installed OEM rotors and EBC pads in the rear only and was wow'ed by the braking performance.
 
Back
Top Bottom