brake question

[doctorJ]

I recently got some 80 series front pads from CDan as I have had my cruiser for 18K of its 113K miles and it seems from all on this board that I was past due for front brake work. I haven't replaced them yet but now for the past few weeks have a very noticable pulsing at the end of each braking. Slowing down from 20 - 5 mph the truck seems to have increasing and then decreasing amounts of front brake application. Driving slowly and applying hand brake doesn't recreate the sensation so I assume it is front brake related. Could this be the rotors? If so do they need replacing or can they be ground even again? Thanks for all your thoughts.
Jay

 

[Scamper]

You likely have warped rotors. Yes, you can turn them as many times as you need to so long as they are above the minimum thickness. A number of members have noted however that rotors that have been turned have a greater tendency to warp again. In your case, if they're already warped, you have two basic choices: 1) turn the old rotors and hope for the best; or 2) buy new rotors and pads and start anew.

If you go with new rotors, you also have the option of using the 100-series pads.

 

[Safado]

you can turn them down to a min thickness of 30mm.

One thing to note however...your test is a little flawed. More than likely your warped rotor is in the front as they handle most of the braking. But the rears are Drum/Disk combonations. When you apply the brake, the disks work in the back...when you use the hand brake, its the drum system. So if your rear was warped, you would also not feel it decelerating with the hand brake.

 

[perk]

FWIW, I recently replaced front rotors and pads (100 series). Almost immediately began to notice very slight pulsing, or grabbing at the same speed range you noted. I don't have any real idea why? Perhaps once I bleed the brakes, it will stop.

Good luck
Perk

 

[Tools R Us]

Sometimes the friction pad material is transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc causing that pulse, try bedding them in, may solve it.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

 

[perk]

I did bed the brakes on initial test drive, doing about 8 60-10 mph stops (without stopping), and going for an extended brake-free drive.

 

[1000-oaks]

Anyone use full-metal front pads? I used them in the front of my 4runner (big tires) and fade resistance improved substantially.

 

[Romer]

I had that same problem and replaced the rotors (didn't want to worry about it again) Incorporated this with a Front Axle rebuild. Getting the rotor off is almost halfway through the front axle rebuild. If that hasn't been done, I recommend you do both. You can do both for about $200 yourself or about $1400 at a shop. Its not hard, just allocate a weekend.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Do the ol' 80 on jackstands with all 4 wheels spinning in low range test. You'll be able to hear the brake rubbing if it's warped, or see the wheel "catching" if it's a pad deposit issue. A helper is great as they can use gas or brakes as needed to help you spot the offending rotor. My money's on one of the rears, which would be good news as they come off in 5 minutes a side so you can take 'em to be lightly turned for $10.

DougM

 

[e9999]

Do the ol' 80 on jackstands with all 4 wheels spinning in low range test. You'll be able to hear the brake rubbing if it's warped, or see the wheel "catching" if it's a pad deposit issue. A helper is great as they can use gas or brakes as needed to help you spot the offending rotor. My money's on one of the rears, which would be good news as they come off in 5 minutes a side so you can take 'em to be lightly turned for $10.

DougM

don't point the truck towards the house when you do that, eh!