Brake line split

[zx9r]

Experienced a complete brake failure. No fluid in reservoir. After getting underside cleared of as much snow/ice/mud as possible I found the source. Unfortunately it is the long section of hard brake line that goes from the front to the back (into the LSPV). Basically it is rusted at two of the brackets that keep it against the frame at the last two points in front of the rear wheel.

Anyone ever attempt to replace just a section of this line (actually it's two parallel lines that run together)? Not that I'm trying to find a cheaper fix than replace the entire section of piping but anticipate the dealer will have to special order it and I won't have my truck for another week.

 

[BeechCruiser]

I had similar rust through on my FJ62. I got some straight brake line stock from Auto parts store, and made up my own pieces. You can use something round like an alternator pulley to make the bends without creasing it. Then use a flaring tool to flare the ends. ( make sure to put the fitting on first!) I can't recall seeing a male to female connector on brake lines, but I believe I have seen that on fuel lines. You might find something like that to cut and patch the area.

 

[kerrye]

I happened to be crawling underneath my new-to-me 94 80 today and noticed rust on the lines around those brackets. It's odd because I live in Colorado and typically don't see much rust underside. It made me think there must to some kind of reaction going on between the metal of the hold down bracket and the lines themselves because the rest of the lines looked like new. It was only around the hold down brackets that there was rust.
Anyone replaced these brackets with some other material or put something between the bracket and the lines to insulate the two from each other.

 

[nat88toy]

been there,

you should order up both lines from your dealer they were not to expensive, if one went the one next to it shouldn't be far behind.

The only thing that sucks if you want to do the job right you are going to have to drop the gas tank so order up to copper washers for the union nut on the tank as well

 

[darwink1]

I just did mine a while ago and managed to replace both hard lines without dropping the tank. Its possible run them between the tank/frame with the tank in place. I used a bunch of straight line from the parts store and it was pretty cheap, cheaper than lines from the dealer for sure.

Mine failed at the clips too.

Take a close look at all the other lines while youre under there, a lot of crap gets hung up between the tank and frame...

D

 

[zx9r]

I happened to be crawling underneath my new-to-me 94 80 today and noticed rust on the lines around those brackets. It's odd because I live in Colorado and typically don't see much rust underside. It made me think there must to some kind of reaction going on between the metal of the hold down bracket and the lines themselves because the rest of the lines looked like new. It was only around the hold down brackets that there was rust.
Anyone replaced these brackets with some other material or put something between the bracket and the lines to insulate the two from each other.

Thanks for the comments guys. Other than these two mount points the lines look perfectly ok all the way back up to the front... So I agree it must be due to a chemical/electrical reaction at these points.

I have recently replaced the other two hard lines that go out to each rear caliper so other than the LSPV (which does look like ****) everything else looks ok. The drivers side line was so thin that it split when I bumped it while trying to remove the differential fill plug. So I went ahead and did both sides a couple months ago.

 

[darwink1]

My lspv is rotten to hell too. I have one sitting in a drawer but I was too lazy to change it when doing the lines.

D

 

[zx9r]

My lspv is rotten to hell too. I have one sitting in a drawer but I was too lazy to change it when doing the lines.

D

I was toying with the idea of just removing it altogether. Maybe not a smart idea but in my case, I don't tow anything so I'm not too concerned about getting the extra brake power to the rear. But not sure if I do bypass it if the balance between front and rear will be OK in normal state or not...so I'll probably just put that off for now as well.

I took the old lines off today. I'll order the new lines tomorrow morning as soon as they are open. Did you have to have your LC on a lift to be able to angle the new line around enough get into place at the front connections without bending it?

 

[Tools R Us]

I was toying with the idea of just removing it altogether. Maybe not a smart idea but in my case, I don't tow anything so I'm not too concerned about getting the extra brake power to the rear. ...

The rear brakes are too effective/strong for normal load driving. The job of the lspv is to reduce the hydraulic pressure to them in normal driving and allow for increased pressure when loaded. In other words, without a lspv and in normally loaded driving, the rears are likely to lock first in an emergency braking event, that usually doesn't end well.

 

[OGBeno]

In other words, without a lspv and in normally loaded driving, the rears are likely to lock first in an emergency braking event, that usually doesn't end well.

Kevin speaks the truth here.

That said, I have yet to find anyone who has had any luck locking up their brakes on these things. With and without an LSPV I have not been able to, and I have tried very hard just in testing.

 

[zx9r]

The rear brakes are too effective/strong for normal load driving. The job of the lspv is to reduce the hydraulic pressure to them in normal driving and allow for increased pressure when loaded. In other words, without a lspv and in normally loaded driving, the rears are likely to lock first in an emergency braking event, that usually doesn't end well.

Understood. I was hoping that the LSPV would need to activate under load condition vs the opposite. Guess it makes more sense to have the constraint removed when needed.

My truck is my DD. Any reason the system won't work if I plug the two points that go back for the rear brakes for a couple days while I wait for the new lines to come in? Anyone have the thread size handy?

 

[kerrye]

Not sure I'd drive just on front brakes, but if I were going to do that, isn't there a single port on the master cylinder for the back brakes? If so, I'd plug it there.
I once plugged the right front line on a 54 Ford pickup I owned as a field car. Never again. One sided front brakes make for a lot of excitement.

 

[zx9r]

Realize it's not a good idea. Just need to get to the office and back for a day or two while waiting for the new lines. I'll check if the master cyl location would be better.