Bradford Metalmaster Lathe Resurrection (3 Viewers)

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Great work! I just picked up the same laid you have. Ended up getting it for free! Did you replace the three belts ? And if so where did you get them at ?

I did not replace them. Mine were in decent shape.

What size did you get? Lets see some pics!
 
I did not replace them. Mine were in decent shape.

What size did you get? Lets see some pics!
I'll take a bunch of pics tomorrow to post on here. I just started the cleanup yesterday. Mine has the 5 hp motor on it.

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I'll take a bunch of pics tomorrow to post on here. I just started the cleanup yesterday. Mine has the 5 hp motor on it.
Nice looking machine!

I see a micrometer stop on the left end of the bed right next to the headstock. Thats a nice find! Does it have a taper attachment? Take a look under the tailstock on top of the way in that area there should be a serial number. That will let you figure out the date of manufacture. Take some shots of the speed and feed plates as well.

Cant beat that for free! I think you will be happy with the quality of the machine. Not the fanciest out there but you can do some really nice work.
 
Nice looking machine!

I see a micrometer stop on the left end of the bed right next to the headstock. Thats a nice find! Does it have a taper attachment? Take a look under the tailstock on top of the way in that area there should be a serial number. That will let you figure out the date of manufacture. Take some shots of the speed and feed plates as well.

Cant beat that for free! I think you will be happy with the quality of the machine. Not the fanciest out there but you can do some really nice work.
I ran out there this morning before heading to church and that number is 6312. Unfortunately I don't have the taper attachment , I only have the one large 4 jaw. Is the chuck held on by the four bolts and then the plate unscrewed for removal. Also curious what type of paint you used and did you prime first. I'm not gonna get too crazy at first . But I am gonna take the cross slide and carriage off for cleaning. I took the cover off the headstock and all the gears look great though.
 
I ran out there this morning before heading to church and that number is 6312. Unfortunately I don't have the taper attachment , I only have the one large 4 jaw. Is the chuck held on by the four bolts and then the plate unscrewed for removal. Also curious what type of paint you used and did you prime first. I'm not gonna get too crazy at first . But I am gonna take the cross slide and carriage off for cleaning. I took the cover off the headstock and all the gears look great though.

Looks like a 1941 war baby based on the serial number!

The spindle should be threaded. So with the low gears and clutch set you should be able to rotate the chuck towards you to un-thread it from the spindle. That looks like a heavy one so make sure you have some help and lay something over the ways to protect them.



Reposted from practical machinist: Bradford Metalmaster info - https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/bradford-metalmaster-info-357486/

1959 SN book lists this info for Bradford Machine Tool Co, Cincinnati, OH

* Starting at SN 2000 in June 1915, up to SN 4432, were flat belt driven cone-head lathes
* Starting at SN 4433 up to & incl 4999, began in 1927, were geared head machines
* Starting at SN 5000 up to & incl 5867 started in Dec 1939, all geared head, in 12", 14", & 16"
* Starting at SN 5868 up to & incl 7999 started in Dec 1940, 12, 14, & 16" size, Metalmaster lathes, geared head, w/ 12 speeds
* Starting at SN 8000 up to & incl 8255 started in Jul 1951 Metalmaster "Heavy Duty" 12, 14, & 16" lathes, geared head, w/ 12 speeds
* Satrting at SN 8256 and all subsequent #'s were geared head Metalmaster lathes w/ either 12 or 24 speeds


1968 SN book, lists these SN's for Bradford Machine Tool Co, Lansing, MI

1927: 4433
1939: 5499
1940: 5890
1941: 5900
1942: 6500
1943: 7000
1944: 7296
1945: 7400
1951: 8000
1954: 8256
 
Getting back into it today. Really not for sure of the direction I want to take with this. I'm guess I'm just going to disassemble degrease and paint. I'll just repair anything as I go along. A couple my handles are in bad shape. everything appears to be in decent shape other than that. However in the last picture I cannot figure out how to get the feed to engage, these two gears to mesh.

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Getting back into it today. Really not for sure of the direction I want to take with this. I'm guess I'm just going to disassemble degrease and paint. I'll just repair anything as I go along. A couple my handles are in bad shape. everything appears to be in decent shape other than that. However in the last picture I cannot figure out how to get the feed to engage, these two gears to mesh.

With the saddle off the apron may be binding as the weight is just kind of flopping around at that point without the saddle to hold it in correct alignment.

The gear on the top is how you engage/disengage the lead screw. That should slide to the left and right. This is a feature that allows you to disengage the lead when you dont need it.

If you take the lathe out of gear you should be able to rotate the chuck by hand and get the feed rod to rotate around so you can slide the gear into mesh. That is assuming you have the forward/reverse engaged on the headstock.
 
With the saddle off the apron may be binding as the weight is just kind of flopping around at that point without the saddle to hold it in correct alignment.

The gear on the top is how you engage/disengage the lead screw. That should slide to the left and right. This is a feature that allows you to disengage the lead when you dont need it.

If you take the lathe out of gear you should be able to rotate the chuck by hand and get the feed rod to rotate around so you can slide the gear into mesh. That is assuming you have the forward/reverse engaged on the headstock.
Ok, I got the top gear to now slide freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did yt? Ok go back with in the head and
With the saddle off the apron may be binding as the weight is just kind of flopping around at that point without the saddle to hold it in correct alignment.

The gear on the top is how you engage/disengage the lead screw. That should slide to the left and right. This is a feature that allows you to disengage the lead when you dont need it.

If you take the lathe out of gear you should be able to rotate the chuck by hand and get the feed rod to rotate around so you can slide the gear into mesh. That is assuming you have the forward/reverse engaged on the headstock.
you to disengage the lead when you dont need it.

If you take the lathe out of gear you should be able to rotate the chuck by hand and get the feed rod to rotate around so you can slide the gear into mesh. That is assuming you have the forward/reverse engaged on the headstock.
Ok, I got the top gear to now sliding freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did you go back with in the head and carriage?

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Ok, I got the top gear to now slide freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did yt? Ok go back with in the head and


Ok, I got the top gear to now sliding freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did you go back with in the head and carriage?

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Ok, I got the top gear to now slide freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did yt? Ok go back with in the head and


Ok, I got the top gear to now sliding freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did you go back with in the head and carriage?

The spring on the feed rod is part of the auto disengage feature. There are two adjustable sliders that have recessed hex heads which are moved to set the disengage points. So as you auto feed left or right when the carriage hits the slider the spring will compress and the feed rod will disengage from the quick change gear box.
 
Ok, I got the top gear to now slide freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did yt? Ok go back with in the head and


Ok, I got the top gear to now sliding freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did you go back with in the head and carriage?

Ok, I got the top gear to now slide freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did yt? Ok go back with in the head and
Ok, I got the top gear to now sliding freely. I didn't know it had to be slide manually. Probably been a while since it's moved. Now the lead screw is functioning as advertised. Now the lower gear has a spring that keeps it from being engaged. Is that what the stop to the right is for? To hold it to the left thereby being engaged? Has to repair a couple he does that were broke, so now I know what you meant about the taped dowels... Also, I found your thread on your lathe in practical machinist. What oil did you go back with in the head and carriage?

So as it sits that feed rod should be engaged provided you have the headstock fwd/rev handle engaged.

Vacuoline 1409 is what you want for oil. It is an old school formulated way oil with tackifier unlike the other current popular Mobil offering which escapes me. This is an ISO68 weight oil.
 
@FJsapper Rad lathe man. I saw you asking about permits for the wiring. Technically yes, Madison requires permits, However I know that myself and other Home Inspectors don't pull permits for residential inspections. Most don't even check anything over 120v outlets for correct wiring. Myself and a few others will, but most won’t. Worse case they spot it in the main panel, and it would only get written up if the installation was subpar wrong/ dangerous.
 
@FJsapper Rad lathe man. I saw you asking about permits for the wiring. Technically yes, Madison requires permits, However I know that myself and other Home Inspectors don't pull permits for residential inspections. Most don't even check anything over 120v outlets for correct wiring. Myself and a few others will, but most won’t. Worse case they spot it in the main panel, and it would only get written up if the installation was subpar wrong/ dangerous.

I ended up going the easy route which was a 20’ power cable to the VFD. I managed to make a discrete....wall....passage....hole....and just hot swap with the dryer. The one hazard I encountered was with my wife when I forget to plug the dryer back in :doh:
 
Because you just NEED one of these now:

 
Weight = 4165. LOL. 2 tons of steel to be moved. @RocketCityCrzrs ... think of all the fun stuff we could make with this one.
 

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