- Location
- United States
Looking to sell an 80 I've had for about 6 months. Before this I was a total novice mechanic, but I've done extensive work on it since. Sadly, getting it into tip-top condition is now outside of my budget.
5_9_18 UPDATE:
The head gasket seems to have gotten worse since Robbie and I inspected it. Dunno what did it, since it's just been sitting, but it struggled to start last time and blew a nice puff of white smoke. Can still drive around town without any overheating, but I'm not going to be driving it. NEW PRICE: $4500
First, the story of how I got here: I had this cruiser (advertised with 150K miles) taken to a mechanic for a pre-purchase check. They ran a carfax and read it with me on the phone, saying it looked "totally clear". They said they would email it to me, but never did. Based on their report and our discussion of the carfax, I got it that weekend. However, it turns out they must have been reading the wrong carfax, because when they finally emailed it to me after I pestered them a few months later it was clear that the odometer had at some point been replaced, and the carfax they sent me had only recently been run. Therefore, the true mileage of the cruiser is unknown. Prior to it’s trip to the mechanic, the mileage was last reported as 193K in 2004. The carfax also shows 2 minor accidents. So I feel pretty dumb for taking the mechanic at his word on the phone without getting the carfax in my hand or in an email. The mechanic has still only sent me a text version, and not a PDF, but I’ve put the text version in the dropbox with more photos. If you're reading it, the Haglin service is because I stripped the rear drain plug and had to have it professionally removed.
After finding out how much more mileage it had than I’d thought, I brought it to Robbie at adventure off-road (Powder Pig) and we ran a compression test:
1 (165) 2 (160) 3 (160) 4 (145) 5 (157) 6 (167)
(Robbie thought the 4th cylinder was due to some valve leak)
Robbie also determined the head gasket is on the way out using the bubble test. Under high revs some small bubbles could be seen in the overflow tank. He recommended replacement prior to any serious backcountry trips. This is a service that is probably too advanced for me/the amount of free time I have, and too expensive for me to have done professionally at the moment. Obviously, this should have been the first test I did when I checked the truck out, but like I said I was a novice before spending hours and hours on MUD and hours and hours under the truck. I didn't know it was a common issue, or how easy it was to test. I trusted too much in pro mechanics and didnt place enough responsibility on myself.
So if the approaching need to replace the head gasket, or the unknown mileage scares you, there’s not point reading on (unless you’re just curious).
At the moment, the interior is all out of the truck. I'd prefer to sell it that way to someone who feels like installing the new sound deadener and carpet (included). I've started on the Cruiser Crap (just the quarter panels, and a bit of the rear cargo area).
Stuff you’ll also get:
Cruiser crap 50 mil sound deadener (value $120)
Mcarr Master Acoustic Foam (value $120)
Full carpet from Auto Custom Carpet (value $330)
Full OEM bushing set (value $500)
Inner axle seal tool from Wits End (it’s pretty)
The 4 front tie rod ends (New, OEM, Value >$100)
Thermostat (old thermo stuck open, need thermo gasket)
Based on the current condition, abundance of new parts/overhauls installed (see below) and included, and good compression valuesI’m asking $7500.
Due to head gasket deterioration: $5500
A quick note about the mileage: While it’s unknown, the truck was still running its original ’95 plug wires, so I dont think we’re talking about a huge number beyond what was last reported (193K).
Dropbox link to more images. (LOTS more images, and carfax txt file.)
Since taking possession I have been doing my best to baseline it. That has included:
Got the truck to pass emissions in Denver area:
Complete overhaul of EGR system. Totally functional now/passes the Toyota FSM EGR test.
New OEM vacuum tubing
New OEM VSV valve
New OEM EGR Control Valve
(also New OEM PCV valve and Hoses)
New Upstream Cat O2 Sensor.
New OEM rubber intake pipe
Power Steering:
New hoses (after market)
Flushed.
Coolant System:
New OEM Toyota/Lexus Radiator (all metal)
OEM coolant hoses
Aisin Water Pump
Denso Fuel Pump
Aisin Fan Clutch (Blue)
OEM Fan
Ignition System:
New OEM Plug Wires
New OEM Plugs
New OEM Cap
New OEM Rotor
New Distributor O-ring installed, timing resent to stock
Drivetrain:
1 new Toyota OEM U-joint (Front DS, transfer case side)
Drain and fill TC, front and rear diff.
Full front differential Rebuild by Adventure Off Road (Robbie aka PowderPig)
Front knuckle rebuild, both sides done myself, using the Terrain Tamer SH5 kit and Valvoline Palladium 3% moly grease:
New inner axle seals
New trunion and wheel bearings
Both birfields disassembled and inspected for wear. 1 birfield replaced with a used birfield joint (Robbies advice)
2 New spindles from Terrain Tamer (with roller bearings instead of bushings)
Interior:
Old, crappy Interior carpet removed
Old Sound Deadening removed for replacement and rust inspection
Some minor surface rust cleaned and painted with rustoleum primer (some remains where the cargo tie downs were)
Found some rust through the rear quarter panels.
Exterior:
Pulled the rear vents, used urethane adhesive to reseal both mounting holes, and the vents to the body.
Pulled the rear windows, cleaned the runs, used RTV silicone to seal the molding mounting clips to the body
Other work that could get done, depending on motivation:
Power Steering Leak, as yet unidentified, but seems slow.
Pan Arch Leak
Valve cover gasket
Oil pump and/or front main seal leak
5_9_18 UPDATE:
The head gasket seems to have gotten worse since Robbie and I inspected it. Dunno what did it, since it's just been sitting, but it struggled to start last time and blew a nice puff of white smoke. Can still drive around town without any overheating, but I'm not going to be driving it. NEW PRICE: $4500
First, the story of how I got here: I had this cruiser (advertised with 150K miles) taken to a mechanic for a pre-purchase check. They ran a carfax and read it with me on the phone, saying it looked "totally clear". They said they would email it to me, but never did. Based on their report and our discussion of the carfax, I got it that weekend. However, it turns out they must have been reading the wrong carfax, because when they finally emailed it to me after I pestered them a few months later it was clear that the odometer had at some point been replaced, and the carfax they sent me had only recently been run. Therefore, the true mileage of the cruiser is unknown. Prior to it’s trip to the mechanic, the mileage was last reported as 193K in 2004. The carfax also shows 2 minor accidents. So I feel pretty dumb for taking the mechanic at his word on the phone without getting the carfax in my hand or in an email. The mechanic has still only sent me a text version, and not a PDF, but I’ve put the text version in the dropbox with more photos. If you're reading it, the Haglin service is because I stripped the rear drain plug and had to have it professionally removed.
After finding out how much more mileage it had than I’d thought, I brought it to Robbie at adventure off-road (Powder Pig) and we ran a compression test:
1 (165) 2 (160) 3 (160) 4 (145) 5 (157) 6 (167)
(Robbie thought the 4th cylinder was due to some valve leak)
Robbie also determined the head gasket is on the way out using the bubble test. Under high revs some small bubbles could be seen in the overflow tank. He recommended replacement prior to any serious backcountry trips. This is a service that is probably too advanced for me/the amount of free time I have, and too expensive for me to have done professionally at the moment. Obviously, this should have been the first test I did when I checked the truck out, but like I said I was a novice before spending hours and hours on MUD and hours and hours under the truck. I didn't know it was a common issue, or how easy it was to test. I trusted too much in pro mechanics and didnt place enough responsibility on myself.
So if the approaching need to replace the head gasket, or the unknown mileage scares you, there’s not point reading on (unless you’re just curious).
At the moment, the interior is all out of the truck. I'd prefer to sell it that way to someone who feels like installing the new sound deadener and carpet (included). I've started on the Cruiser Crap (just the quarter panels, and a bit of the rear cargo area).
Stuff you’ll also get:
Cruiser crap 50 mil sound deadener (value $120)
Mcarr Master Acoustic Foam (value $120)
Full carpet from Auto Custom Carpet (value $330)
Full OEM bushing set (value $500)
Inner axle seal tool from Wits End (it’s pretty)
The 4 front tie rod ends (New, OEM, Value >$100)
Thermostat (old thermo stuck open, need thermo gasket)
Based on the current condition, abundance of new parts/overhauls installed (see below) and included, and good compression values
Due to head gasket deterioration: $5500
A quick note about the mileage: While it’s unknown, the truck was still running its original ’95 plug wires, so I dont think we’re talking about a huge number beyond what was last reported (193K).
Dropbox link to more images. (LOTS more images, and carfax txt file.)
Since taking possession I have been doing my best to baseline it. That has included:
Got the truck to pass emissions in Denver area:
Complete overhaul of EGR system. Totally functional now/passes the Toyota FSM EGR test.
New OEM vacuum tubing
New OEM VSV valve
New OEM EGR Control Valve
(also New OEM PCV valve and Hoses)
New Upstream Cat O2 Sensor.
New OEM rubber intake pipe
Power Steering:
New hoses (after market)
Flushed.
Coolant System:
New OEM Toyota/Lexus Radiator (all metal)
OEM coolant hoses
Aisin Water Pump
Denso Fuel Pump
Aisin Fan Clutch (Blue)
OEM Fan
Ignition System:
New OEM Plug Wires
New OEM Plugs
New OEM Cap
New OEM Rotor
New Distributor O-ring installed, timing resent to stock
Drivetrain:
1 new Toyota OEM U-joint (Front DS, transfer case side)
Drain and fill TC, front and rear diff.
Full front differential Rebuild by Adventure Off Road (Robbie aka PowderPig)
Front knuckle rebuild, both sides done myself, using the Terrain Tamer SH5 kit and Valvoline Palladium 3% moly grease:
New inner axle seals
New trunion and wheel bearings
Both birfields disassembled and inspected for wear. 1 birfield replaced with a used birfield joint (Robbies advice)
2 New spindles from Terrain Tamer (with roller bearings instead of bushings)
Interior:
Old, crappy Interior carpet removed
Old Sound Deadening removed for replacement and rust inspection
Some minor surface rust cleaned and painted with rustoleum primer (some remains where the cargo tie downs were)
Found some rust through the rear quarter panels.
Exterior:
Pulled the rear vents, used urethane adhesive to reseal both mounting holes, and the vents to the body.
Pulled the rear windows, cleaned the runs, used RTV silicone to seal the molding mounting clips to the body
Other work that could get done, depending on motivation:
Power Steering Leak, as yet unidentified, but seems slow.
Pan Arch Leak
Valve cover gasket
Oil pump and/or front main seal leak
Last edited:
