Bought my first 80 series… (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just curious - what's the build date on your tag? My 94 was a November 93 build and the interior is a mirror image of yours.

Congrats!
 
December 1994
A629F6C7-F04F-4BCC-9B17-4564961716B0.jpeg
 
Man we're practically brothers. 🥲

20220720_181433.jpg


And edit - Ooops misread your build as 12/93. We still look alike though...
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the 93-94 Fzj80 club. Love the interior. Looks pretty clean for a 94.


Circled is the most coveted part in my opinion... Our Air Flow Meter/ AFM/ VAF/ The Flapper.
Never open it. Never touch the screws that are circled. You will be tempted to fiddle with it. You will read about adjusting it for better power and better mpg... Don't.
Toyota put some magic into it and once you let it out your cruiser will never be the same.



IMG_20220720_185505.jpg
 
that thing hanging off of the intake and connecting back into the engine area

It isn't. That's the engine wiring harness going from the top of the firewall to a lower point on the firewall, where it passes through into the cabin near the ECU.

Also why does this MAF sensor look more hardcore than mine?

It's a VAF, not an MAF. The difference doesn't really matter, but it's virtually impossible to do forced induction with the VAF.
 
Can someone explain what that thing hanging off of the intake and connecting back into the engine area with that hose, is? Also why does this MAF sensor look more hardcore than mine?
The 93-94 trucks had the PAIR emissions system on them (Pulsed secondary air injection system) and they used a VAF ( Vane Air Flow) meter to basically make sure there is airflow and how much based on how far open it is.

The later years used a MAF (Mass Air Flow) system with a wire across the opening and measures the rate of heat loss across the wire to determine the mass of air into the engine and control the air: fuel ratios accordingly.

The PAIR systems are noisy and the VAF is sensitive to changes, plus they are NLA. Don't fork it up.
 
Last edited:
Is that seriously normal? They’re clearly leaking right?
No, that's normal. The balls should have a coating of grease and it will ball up a bit.

Yes, they're a little coated in a tiny bit.

I'll take a pic of mine right now and show you what a leaking birf looks like. I have 120k miles on the axle rebuild and it's overdue.

IMG_20220721_232001492.jpg


IMG_20220721_232007666.jpg
 
I just told my wife that I went outside, took a couple pictures of my balls and posted them on the internet.

She looked at me like I'm an idiot. In other words, normal.
 
I just told my wife that I went outside, took a couple pictures of my balls and posted them on the internet.

She looked at me like I'm an idiot. In other words, normal.
Thanks man. Mine are leaking too. Not as bad as yours but definitely leaking. Mines dripping onto the wheels.
 
Thanks man. Mine are leaking too. Not as bad as yours but definitely leaking. Mines dripping onto the wheels.
Check your grease level in the knuckles and add to bring it up to par.

Yours don't look like the inner axle seal is blown out and leaking gear oil into the knuckle (birf soup).

Check your fluid level, power wash the brake backing plate, and you're good .

I've been driving mine like this for over a year because I haven't had time to rebuild. I just keep adding oil and grease.
 
I see a huge gap between your core support and aftermarket radiator.....might be a good way for air to escape off the top and sides...
nice rig nonetheless.
 
Am I missing something as isn't a 12/94 build date actually a 1995 model-year vehicle?

Really nice and clean, either way...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom