Bosch oil filter failure-any ideas??
- Thread starter KliersLC
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Hi Doug et. al.,
Just went by the local Napa to verify the following:
1) Both Napa Gold 1515 and Napa Gold 1068 come up as options for a 93 (among many other years, I assume) Land Cruiser.
2) The 1515 is bigger than the 1068. They both have the same diameter, but the 1515 is noticeably longer.
3) Both have an identical, very obvious rubber anti-drain-back flapper valve.
Curtis
91FJ80, Napa Gold (Wix) 1515
Just went by the local Napa to verify the following:
1) Both Napa Gold 1515 and Napa Gold 1068 come up as options for a 93 (among many other years, I assume) Land Cruiser.
2) The 1515 is bigger than the 1068. They both have the same diameter, but the 1515 is noticeably longer.
3) Both have an identical, very obvious rubber anti-drain-back flapper valve.
Curtis
91FJ80, Napa Gold (Wix) 1515
NAPA 1515 is equivalent to a Motorcraft FL-1A and Fram PH8A, used on many, many Ford engines.
I wasn't aware a 3rd NAPA would attach to the 1fzfe? I knew about 1515 (big) and 1348(small), but wasn't aware of 1068? Is the 1068 an intermediate size? What's its advantage over the other two (if any)?
I wasn't aware a 3rd NAPA would attach to the 1fzfe? I knew about 1515 (big) and 1348(small), but wasn't aware of 1068? Is the 1068 an intermediate size? What's its advantage over the other two (if any)?
- Thread starter
- #25
Hmm....
That is interesting, I thought the NG filter that I put on this time looked different than in the past, so I just went and checked and it is a 1515. I am 98% sure that 1515 was not the number that I got last time. I would have remembered 1515, but 1068 rings a bell instead. I need to write this stuff down.
Anyhow, Thanks to all for the opinions and advice, and stay away from bosch....
Dan
That is interesting, I thought the NG filter that I put on this time looked different than in the past, so I just went and checked and it is a 1515. I am 98% sure that 1515 was not the number that I got last time. I would have remembered 1515, but 1068 rings a bell instead. I need to write this stuff down.
Anyhow, Thanks to all for the opinions and advice, and stay away from bosch....
Dan
Whoa there.
I take it by "equivalent" you mean same cross references, and not that the Fram is of the same quality as the Wix/Napa Gold?
Curtis
Could be Doug, I can ck a couple sources... I tend to use the 'big' filter Mr. T. has on the shelf, so my interest is passive. My interest in oil threads is passive too. I speak directly to the Bosch, which I find to be one of the worst oil filters on the market, the paint is really nice though.
ST
Sorry, by equivalent, I did mean same cross reference and NOT same quality or same manufacturer.
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I can't see the bypass valve in the pictures, but all other indicators point to this filter being made by Champion Labs, not a bad filter. They also make filters for, AC Delco, K&N, Car and Driver, Deutsch, Mobil 1, Mighty, STP, SuperTech, Valvoline, Lee, AutoZone, VW, Warner, Luberfiner and Trust.
The newest Bosch filters are made by Purolator. The new Bosch Premium is a Purolator Pure One clone, nice filter and with the sales that some of the parts stores have on them a good value. The easiest way to tell is the Champion's have a letter stamped in the base plate, in this case "AA" and the Purolator's have a number.
If your looking for Wix, they also make Carquest branded filters. The NAPA Gold and Carquest Blue have silicone anti drain back valves, NAPA Silver and Carquest Red have a nitrile valve, a slightly lower quality filter, but still Wix.
The newest Bosch filters are made by Purolator. The new Bosch Premium is a Purolator Pure One clone, nice filter and with the sales that some of the parts stores have on them a good value. The easiest way to tell is the Champion's have a letter stamped in the base plate, in this case "AA" and the Purolator's have a number.
If your looking for Wix, they also make Carquest branded filters. The NAPA Gold and Carquest Blue have silicone anti drain back valves, NAPA Silver and Carquest Red have a nitrile valve, a slightly lower quality filter, but still Wix.
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Kevin,
What say ye on the Napa Gold = 100% Wix sourced? Also, my Napa guy tells me some of the sealing ring diameters on the filters his book shows for the 80 are slightly different - I believe he said one was metric and the other SAE dimensioned and slightly different. I compared my pile o' Napa Golds with a Toyota 20004 ring and they looked to be same diameter.
DougM
What say ye on the Napa Gold = 100% Wix sourced? Also, my Napa guy tells me some of the sealing ring diameters on the filters his book shows for the 80 are slightly different - I believe he said one was metric and the other SAE dimensioned and slightly different. I compared my pile o' Napa Golds with a Toyota 20004 ring and they looked to be same diameter.
DougM
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To the best of my knowledge all of the NAPA's are Wix. Are they exactly the same as a Wix branded filter, I don't know? The customer can change some specifications to make their product slightly different from the vendors product.
wow i feel bad for putting fram on my toyotas for all these years
scottm
SILVER Star
Another informative thread, thanks! I've been thinking of switching from OEM to NAPA Gold for my oil filter, this helps. I've heard you can save a little if you ask for the Master Pack (MP) version at NAPA, that's the same filter bulk packed, they usually sell them individually.
If you're not looking into your oil filter before installing, you're probably not pre-filling it with oil, which I highly recommend. This used to be required on turbo-cars, the dry start-up while the filter filled was particularly bad for turbo bearings. In this horizontal mounting you can't fill it full, but if you fill it and let it sit a moment, you'll notice much of the oil is absorbed into the filter element. I usually have to top off a couple times to get one really full. If it's fairly full, I try to keep the filter rotating once I turn it horizontal, to keep oil from pooling on one side and flowing out the middle. I forgot to preload on the 80 once, and when I started it there arose such a clatter, I shut down and double-checked I had oil. I guess it wasn't that loud, but I'm extra cautious when I start after any engine work.
My 40th had the engine replaced after the first oil change, when the dealer mechanic didn't notice the gasket from the original filter was still stuck to the engine block. The two gaskets didn't stay lined up, and all the oil blew out. If you're not wiping down the machined surface on the engine block before installing the new filter, you probably won't notice that.
If you're not looking into your oil filter before installing, you're probably not pre-filling it with oil, which I highly recommend. This used to be required on turbo-cars, the dry start-up while the filter filled was particularly bad for turbo bearings. In this horizontal mounting you can't fill it full, but if you fill it and let it sit a moment, you'll notice much of the oil is absorbed into the filter element. I usually have to top off a couple times to get one really full. If it's fairly full, I try to keep the filter rotating once I turn it horizontal, to keep oil from pooling on one side and flowing out the middle. I forgot to preload on the 80 once, and when I started it there arose such a clatter, I shut down and double-checked I had oil. I guess it wasn't that loud, but I'm extra cautious when I start after any engine work.
My 40th had the engine replaced after the first oil change, when the dealer mechanic didn't notice the gasket from the original filter was still stuck to the engine block. The two gaskets didn't stay lined up, and all the oil blew out. If you're not wiping down the machined surface on the engine block before installing the new filter, you probably won't notice that.
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Good call on pre-filling. I've never done that because I've always used Mobil 1 synth and once spoke with a M1 tech to ask about a few things. He told me its biggest advantage is on cold starts where the longer chain molecules stay in the bearings far better than dino oil. But every little bit helps and I'll start doing the prefill - takes only a minute to do, eh?
DougM
DougM
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- #36
I always pre-fill (a holdover from working on GMs), but I don't really inspect the inside..... well I will now, but I hadn't made a practice of it.
Dan
Dan
im guessing the fzj oil filter placement is different than my fj it is upside down prefilling would get messy. but i second or third the prefilling as this is the course of action on my 4runner
I used to prefill on other vehicles, makes a big diffrence on the ammount of time it takes to get oil pressure, unfortunatly the horizontal filter makes it more dificult.
Scott you have raised the bar, I need to work on my ninja filter skills
Scott you have raised the bar, I need to work on my ninja filter skills
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- #39
scottm
SILVER Star
Agreed, I clean the block from the spill taking the old filter off, then try not to get more on it during install. There's oil everywhere anyway. The smaller filter requires less dexterity, the big one is tough to do this way.X2,
This part is where I always spill oil all over everything......
Do all oil filters have the same threads? I wonder how much they all really differ. I don't see why they would, other than some need drainback valves and some don't. I'm sure some need to be larger for more flow, some smaller for space constraints, but that's about all the variety needed. The machined sealing surfaces on every block I've looked at are generous enough for variations in gasket sizes. The automakers specify these things, and there's not much benefit to standardizing when they order them by the thousands.
