Bosch oil filter failure-any ideas??

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Howdy,
I changed the oil on my 94 the other day, and found that the oil filter has what looks like a failure in the lining, as if the pressure through the little holes was too much, and it caused the filter screen to buckle. (see pics)

This filter was on the rig for about 4500 miles using exclusively Delo 15w-40.

I have always heard good things about Bosch products, but this is a little disconcerting.

Questions:

Should I be worried about crankcaase contamination and do an oil flush?

What would cause this?

Also, the cruiser has never burned any oil, but two quarts disapeared the other day driving to CDA. would the defective(allegedly) filter have contributed to this? It hasn't burned any more oil in two more trips........

Sorry for all of the questions, and thanks for any input you all can provide,
Dan
filter 003.webp
filter 006.webp
filter 011.webp
 
A couple more pics and one last question. Does the oil flow through the big hole and then out the little ones or in through the little ones and out the big one??
Thanks,
Dan
filter 015.webp
filter 014.webp
 
The oil flows in the little holes nd out the one in the middle,


I doubt bosch actually made that filter, they put thier name on a lot of stuff they do not make. the AA stamp lease me to think it is a champion labs, and not the POS E-core variety, ushually a good filter,

are you sure you have the right aplication? a non bypass equiped filter installe don a 1FZ might do something like that

I would shorten this oil change interval to 1,000 miles or so, after than just change normally, buy OEM or WiX oil filters from now on,
 
Thanks,
I Usually use the Napa gold filters, but the last time I changed the oil, I was on the road and the parts store had a choice of fram or bosch--seemed like a no brainer at the time.

This was the filter listed for the vehicle, but I have no idea if it was made to the correct specs....
 
USE FACTORY FILTERS DESPITE WHAT YOU MAY THINK, YOU ARE NOT SMARTER THAN TOYOTA'S RESEARCH AND DEVELOPEMENT DEPARTMENT...

I am using caps to get my point across, I mean they are cheap and for G@D sakes there are more toyota dealers around than you can shake a stick at...

and if going to the dealer is to hard then pick up the phone call dan and then sit out on you porch drink a beer and three days later (holy s*** batman) factory toyota filters show up @ your door brought to you by your freindly local UPS driver, Yes Brown can do stuff for you to.

Don't be a tool box

Meant with as much mud love as possible
 
I'm going to disagree with you here. The older Japanese Toyota filters (004) were great, but the newer cheaper ones are arguably not as good as the Napa Gold filters.
 
for OEM small filters you can get 004's in the for sale section here,

for OEM large filters the 1010's are still Japanese and well made,

but for either napa/wix is a good filter also
 
USE FACTORY FILTERS DESPITE WHAT YOU MAY THINK, YOU ARE NOT SMARTER THAN TOYOTA'S RESEARCH AND DEVELOPEMENT DEPARTMENT...

I am using caps to get my point across, I mean they are cheap and for G@D sakes there are more toyota dealers around than you can shake a stick at...

and if going to the dealer is to hard then pick up the phone call dan and then sit out on you porch drink a beer and three days later (holy s*** batman) factory toyota filters show up @ your door brought to you by your freindly local UPS driver, Yes Brown can do stuff for you to.

Don't be a tool box

Meant with as much mud love as possible

No offense taken, and I know that I am not as smart as the folks at toyota. Thats why I don't build filters for my rig:rolleyes:

Anyhow, I'd wager to say that the people at Wix are as smart as the folks at toyota though.....

:cheers:
Dan
 
Other than getting reduced filtration on this cycle due to the oil pouring out the area of filter media we can see, I see no harm from this. If a bit of the filter media did come loose and go into the pan, it would be caught on the next pass through the filter. So, you're likely back to a normal oil/filter cycle now rather than waste money on a short cycle. Assuming you put a good filter on this time.

I think that was a manufacturing defect (unless you're positive you looked in there before installation and it was fine) and you put it on like that. I'm not in the habit of visually inspecting my filters before install, either. I cannot see that happening from operation because it's a metal structure and they can withstand more than the oil system PSI can put out. That's where these cheap filter innards (think Fram) are a bad idea - they can be overpowered.

I thought about your oil consumption and cannot reconcile any link with this unless a piece of filter media somehow got sucked up by your PCV valve as it floated past unscathed through the whirling, mashing valve train. If that happened, crankcase pressure would rise and oil would get forced by the rings and burned in the cylinder at a higher rate. That's about all I can come up with on a single cup of coffee this morning.

If you decide to go with Wix, get the 1068. It's the NAPA Gold 1068, actually. I bought a pile of them last month for just over $3! They are the top line model with all steel internals, a quality O ring, fully rolled seams (vs some cheap spot welded), and a lot more filter media than even the normal quality Wix.

DougM
 
I wouldn't sweat it much, our motors don't make much junk and the chance of motor damage from this is slim. But I would contact Bosch, file a complaint and send them the pix. Then bag and keep that filter in case of the slim chance of motor damage that can be traced to the filter.
 
Bosch Filters

I haven't used a bosch filter in my shop for years. Mann, Mahle are the two I use for the audis. The Bosch are not fine IMO/E, and their quality is not very good.

For the toyota, I just use the stocker, it's oringed, it's prelubed, and when I pull a piece of saran off the filter, I know it's not precontaminated.

Since your truck dictates 10-30 and you used 15-40, could it be that the start up pressure spike drove the filter element array? I've seen start up pressures in the 150psi range (the gasket is rated for 300psi), which means that you absolutely could have compromised the filter pleats.

I did a test several years ago and cut up the Bosch filters, Mann and Mahle. The Bosch was aboslutely the worst of the three, and the most expensive, even wholesale. I'd be careful of the NAPA filters as well, that's not a given supplier, that's only an approved supplier (ala Bosch).

ST
 
IIRC, the reccomended oil viscosity is a compromise between the EPA and the ato manf. in an attempt to maximize efficiency and prolong engine life at the same time.

As such 15w-40 is IMHO, is a very good oil for this engine, and would not cause a startup pressure spike unless it was really cold......which it hasn't been.

OTOH, the info about the filter is interesting, but are you saying that Napa gold filters are rebadged cheapos as well?

Thanks,
Dan
 
Last edited:
Sumo,

Unless you have info to the contrary, sources I've checked all indicate that NAPA Gold filters are 100% made by Wix. Can't speak for their every day price leader NAPA filter, or the Silver line above that. Any word to the contrary? Thanks!

DougM
 
I seriously doubt that this failure has anything to do with excessive oil pressure, looks like a manufacture defect. The pump to relief ratio is well designed, even with 15W-50 in mine I never see higher than relief pressure. Depending on temp 15w-40 is within the factory recommended range.
 
I seriously doubt that this failure has anything to do with excessive oil pressure, looks like a manufacture defect. The pump to relief ratio is well designed, even with 15W-50 in mine I never see higher than relief pressure. Depending on temp 15w-40 is within the factory recommended range.

I agree, if you had a overpressure issue (i.e. a stuck pressure relief spring), you would have seen the o-ring blow out or the filter split. This used to happen with M10 engine BMW's using aftermarket filters, specifically frams. It is was what originally caused me to abandon fram and go OEM 15+ years ago.
 
If you decide to go with Wix, get the 1068. It's the NAPA Gold 1068, actually. I bought a pile of them last month for just over $3! They are the top line model with all steel internals, a quality O ring, fully rolled seams (vs some cheap spot welded), and a lot more filter media than even the normal quality Wix.

Hmm... I thought that the Wix 51515 was the right Wix filter for these trucks. Have I been missled?
 
I thought the correct NAPA Gold small filter is the 1348. That's what I use on a 96 LX450. The book at NAPA specified this one for the 1997 LX450 and Landcruiser.
 
there are two sizes that can be used, most flter manufacturers make one or more in each size, the two sizes types are generally called "large" and "small" arround here.

you can find the small one by looking up a 97 land cruiser, the large by looking up a 93 land cruiser, you can run either filter on any 1FZ (and AFAIK any land cruiser)


I use the "good" "small" OEM fiters 90915-20004 that are no longer availabe through normal channels,
 

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