Body damage assessment, please

[Tofudebeest]

OK. Short story:
inoperable rig was being pulled with straps, backwards, while I steered walking along side the truck. Tow vehicle stalls, momentum causes the vehicle's butts to smash before I could hop in an hit the brakes. Yes, I know, stupid.

So, this is what the damage looks like with the new lens put on and with the dent drilled and pulled. Pretty rough, I know.

My plan was to Dura Bak the bottom half, (the typical belt line and down), so that will conceal and seal up the bottom half of the damage and prevent rust, but not the top, which is a more complex body shape with the edges and all.

So, I need advice. I do not want to cut out the corner and weld in a replacement because, 1) I do not weld, 2) I do not want to pay for a panel and a welder, and 3) I do not want to paint a larger area than is necessary.

I can further rust-proof it, Bondo it and paint it, but I think I might regret it. I could wait, do it right, and respray the whole truck...

I guess the question comes down to how bad this is, and if I can expect a decent result with bondo and new paint.

What would you do? This is the only body damage on an otherwise 100% rust free body. No, I don't want to do it to the other side to have them match, Al.

 

[Texx]

Easy fix, problem will be the paint match.

 

[Tofudebeest]

You know, this is an odd rig. The paint was great everywhere but the horizontal surfaces, even still shiny. I'm thinking I best just borrow a spray gun and compressor (Mel???) blend up some custom paint, and perhaps even take the glass out. I was gonna have to do my windshield anyhow, so that can be out for the paint job, and rolling down the windows and taking out the channels is easy. I wish I had waited to put in the cargo window lock strip. That was not easy. I had not done my back window yet, but removing that glass makes me a bit nervous. I'm not going to worry about the engine bay.

I guess we're looking at another item on the to do list...
I knock one off the list, two more get added.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

How about bondo, then lining the entire rig instead of the just bottom half? Good auto paint is $, and less forgiving to apply than most any bedliner product.
BTW, don't use the actual brand "Bondo" try something from Evercoat or another quality brand. Bondo brand is just too low quality to risk the $ spent on any decent topcoat to need redone after only one year or so.

 

[Tofudebeest]

How about bondo, then lining the entire rig instead of the just bottom half?

'cuz I'm not that big a redneck.

 

[Bogo]

'cuz I'm not that big a redneck.

I know the feeling... (I'm still tempted to paint my Micro RV along the lines of these patterns Morning Wood (NSFW))

Anyways. How long till the full paint job? If you can live with it looking dinged till then, I'd do a good prep and then paint it with a good primer and something close to the rest. This is just to keep it from rusting. Could be via rattle can. Then when it is time to do the full paint job, sandblast strip the paint in the area, properly fill it, and paint the whole rig properly.

If you expect it to get dinged on the trail I'd stay away from bondo. I'd try to pound it out or replace. On pounding it out. It is possible to use small anvils, punches, etc. to push out and reshape bent up metal. If you spend the time even creases can be removed. Another option is solder fill. Not done much anymore due to weight and the lead in the solder. Also it is an art.

 

[Tofudebeest]

I know the feeling... (I'm still tempted to paint my Micro RV along the lines of these patterns Morning Wood (NSFW))

Anyways. How long till the full paint job? If you can live with it looking dinged till then, I'd do a good prep and then paint it with a good primer and something close to the rest. This is just to keep it from rusting. Could be via rattle can. Then when it is time to do the full paint job, sandblast strip the paint in the area, properly fill it, and paint the whole rig properly.

If you expect it to get dinged on the trail I'd stay away from bondo. I'd try to pound it out or replace. On pounding it out. It is possible to use small anvils, punches, etc. to push out and reshape bent up metal. If you spend the time even creases can be removed. Another option is solder fill. Not done much anymore due to weight and the lead in the solder. Also it is an art.

I have a solid background in art and I'm a hands-on learner, so fab work and manipulating materials is my strong suit, including painting, if I can settle myself down and take my time. I do not weld (yet) and we did use a body repair kit to get this corner looking like it does. You'd be surprised to see how it looked before. It was ugly and I'm shocked that so much paint held on there. I'm kicking myself for not documenting it with good photos.

Anyhow, I owe Dennis for all the invaluable help and the bulk of this repair. The holes will invite rust unless I get paint or some good coating in there from behind, which is surely easy enough. I'm going to pick up a body repair kit and continue to work on this until it is as good as it is going to get, and it is close. I do have time on my side. I guess I can fill those holes with a welder, but I'm well aware that sheetmetal is not the material you want to learn how to weld on.

The advice here is solid, thanks.

 

[5280Hawk]

I don't think people should be afraid of a little bondo.

If you watch any of the Fabrication shows on Discovery Channel like Overhaulin, ect. They always bondo up the bodies of those 80-90K$ custom cars, without even blinking,

If its good enough for them,

 

[RockDoc]

Have you considered lead?

 

[BinaryDude]

It's like the Tanqueray ad says, "Always in moderation". Bondo to level is good. Bondo to repair a hole the size of your head... bad.