Bobcat / soil help

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blatant

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Anyone have a line on a bob cat or a company that could perform 20 minutes of work. I need the side of my house bladed, as the soil next to the house is higher than a couple feet further out. Seems like a couple swoops would do the trick. I was going to do it by hand but after 20 pick swings I came to my senses.

see how slanted.
20170514_092009_zpsm7caa9ew.jpeg
 
It was done that way on purpose. The slab is supposed to be a minimum of 6" above finished grade and slope away from the home. You don't want water against the footing, or anywhere close to it. If you retain water there the soil we become "plastic" and move causing settling and then cracks in the walls.

You can flatten it a bit or install an impervious layer such as concrete. Pavers will let too much water in if you don't slope it.

Homes Depot will have tractors that you can rent. The one at 59th and Peoria has bobcats and front end loaders with gannon. I much prefer a gannon when leveling or surfacing an area. Don't forget to compact when done or in a few years you will be very unhappy with the results.
 
^^^^ Thanks @Azca . I'm not looking for it to be leveled to the house, the slant is fine for a couple feet, but then level ( or almost ) would be nice. Water does pool there every couple years, but it has to be a doozy.

I'm not qualified to run a bobcat and while it would be fun to mess around with, the timing and logistics of the chore preclude that, not to mention proximity of house and wall.
 
Mike with your money just sub out someone to pour a nice elevated concrete pad there. You and your truck deserve it! :) Not sure what the going price of concrete work is.
 
∆∆∆∆ haha @lcgeek, I wish. Strong jokes ( hidden insight ) as usual John. That's one way to get it done. Probably no more expensive, all things considered, than elbow grease and 1\4 minus.

Stuck the 100 in there for frame of reference...
 
You'll need a nice shade structure or carport roof of course. One thing leads to another?
 
Running a bobcat is tough, tried it once, won't do it again. Front end loader and a gannon is EASY! Seriously, anyone can do it. Besides, it is fun! If you are looking to level and stabilize, I would use decomposed or 1/4 minus granite with a spray on a stabilizing agent. You can purchase the agent at Marvel. Besides, the granite is far easier and makes a great, flat, clean and very easy to maintain surface.
 
blatant said:
Stuck the 100 in there for frame of reference...
Click to expand...

Are planning parking anything there just don't like the pitch? If your not planning on parking anything or need it level for some other purpose I would just landscape it as is. Like mentioned it was done for a reason. Instead of concrete slab if you didn't want it to be permanent level then put down heavy mol plastic before pavers. Would still want it pitched towards the street. That way on heavy rains the water runs off instead of soaking in. Later it much easier to remove them jackhammering and hauling away concrete. Offer the pavers for free and someone else would probably remove them for you.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Most places it is illegal to park on dirt in front without a defined driveway.
Click to expand...

Didn't know about the defined driveway but dirt or grass I did. Seen people get away with simply putting bricks under the tires in West Phoenix. But this was in neighborhoods where I've seen people rebuild cars in the driveway, taking years. My old neighborhood wasn't much better except for one neighbor who was single-handed fighting a losing battle to clean up our street. Picked up a non running FJ25 in Oregon. Parked next the house. Right away get a letter from city. In West Phoenix it has a lot to do with if anyone complains. Almost ten years later and that neighbor is still there. Not sure if he is still trying clean up the street but if his he is still losing. Our old house and a few other that were kept up are not trashed.
 
I think I derailed this thread by presumptuously thinking that since Mike parked his 100 there in the pic, that meant his intended purpose was to eventually park his 100 there. Maybe this is not the case and his 100 was only for scale and perspective :)
 
That type of block wall isn't going to like retaining much soil.
 
Also, don't build anything in that area. A shade structure would not meet most zoning ordinances in that area. You would need to check the setbacks with the planning department. Building code requires min of 3' to the property line but zoning will be more strict.

I like the idea of plastic under the pavers, just make sure you restrain the edges or the water could eventually wash some of the sand out causing settling.

Rusty is also right, the interlocked masonry wall is not suitable to be used as a retaining wall. As long as you are not going up more than a few inches ( <4), however, you should be ok. Especially if you use stabilized DG.
 
Thank you folks, as usual great info from a deep well. The knowledge of our group is priceless. Pictured areas been like this for years, what's a bit longer.

The camper will do in the existing area. Easy to add a "new" length of 1\4 minus drive out to the road, of this questioned area if need be.

Shade structure probably not murf, house and oleanders are pretty tall. I'm just trying to utilize dead space, in the easiest and non Hassel some ( ie: cheapest ) way.
 
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