Builds Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

Unreal!! Love the project Binky references.

Based on the first couple of posts it seems like you were picking up a lot of the tools needed for the project, implying that this was your first time, but man, the fabrication results are beautiful!!

Can't wait to see the rest.

 

[Mieser]

Unreal!! Love the project Binky references.

Based on the first couple of posts it seems like you were picking up a lot of the tools needed for the project, implying that this was your first time, but man, the fabrication results are beautiful!!

Can't wait to see the rest.

Thank you.

I've been in this sport for decades, but it wasn't until the last 5-6 years or so that I finally got a house with a garage big enough to fabricate in. I acquire tools as I go. I have been trying to push my skills by doing new things.

My last project was this little guy...



The flat fender, not the significant others daily driver. I built that from the ground up about 4+ years ago now. I had it since 2003 but it was just rotting away. I decided to give it a new lease on life. It did pretty good for the first 70+ years. My hope is that it will go another 70 years now that I built a new frame and refreshed everything.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I love your low and wide look too. Most people with LCs stick with relatively skinny tires, but a little width isn't a bad thing.

Which specific tubing roller and shrinker do you have from HF?

 

[Mieser]

I love your low and wide look too. Most people with LCs stick with relatively skinny tires, but a little width isn't a bad thing.

Which specific tubing roller and shrinker do you have from HF?

I like low and wide if you can't tell. As long as you can get the belly clearance to make it work I think it makes everything work better. I don't' have any tire coverage rules in my state either. My FJ45-esk body is a bit of an optical illusion as far as stance right now. When I 'pinched' the door openings, the body was narrowed about 7.5". The body is only 56" wide or so now. That makes the tires and wheels look wider. The overall width of the vehicle is just about 80" total. For a 112" wheelbase I think that will be a pretty good all around balance for the kind of stuff I do.
Also note that the project is still sitting metal to metal with the springs pulled for mockup. It will be 6" taller on springs I suspect.

Harbor Freight tools.

Roller.

Tubing Roller

I like this thing, for the money it is a good value. Just take your time and don't overdo the bending per roll. I limited myself to 1/2-1/4 a turn on the feed screw between passes. That made it easy to roll the tube with the included hand wheel.

Shrinker/Stretcher.

Metal Shrinker/Stretcher Set

These are ok. They don't like 16 gauge at all, I knew that going in. If you stick to more common 22-18 gauge you will have a lot better luck. I will have to rebuild a few parts ( mainly the pressed die containment bracket ) after playing with the thicker metal in them. They got the job done. Lesson learned. Not many shrinkers LIKE 16 gauge coll roll....

 

[wngrog]

Welcome to Mud with this thread. I totally forgot the hardcore corner was on Mud. Posting to watch.

As for the little grill on the Twisted Customs buggy. Jason is still in business and sells the front grill.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I can't think of another J4x build that narrowed the whole body like you have. The 40 is already pretty small, so I'm sure it'll feel like a go-cart now!!

We're on the same wavelength about being low and wide. I would like my truck to be lower, but to do so I'd have to do some significant bodywork for the rear end.

 

[Mieser]

Welcome to Mud with this thread. I totally forgot the hardcore corner was on Mud. Posting to watch.

As for the little grill on the Twisted Customs buggy. Jason is still in business and sells the front grill.

Thanks. Yup. I talked to Jason about the hood/grill. I was actually going to run the complete TC 54" nose package. After talking with Jason though we decided it probably wouldn't fit right. When he made that nose he pie cut it. The 54" hood won't sit right on the factory LC cowl.

I will just be reworking a stock grill into the shape I want. It has headlight buckets and all that. I recently found a much better seamless hood also for a price I could swallow. My mockup hood is pretty trashed.

 

[Mieser]

I can't think of another J4x build that narrowed the whole body like you have. The 40 is already pretty small, so I'm sure it'll feel like a go-cart now!!

We're on the same wavelength about being low and wide. I would like my truck to be lower, but to do so I'd have to do some significant bodywork for the rear end.

I didn't really narrow the hole body, I just pulled in the door openings so they are parallel to each other. The dash, cowl, hood are all still factory length. The FJ40 body flares out to the REAR of the door opening.....a 63.5" wide tub was just too wide for what I wanted to do.

Now the tub is about 56" wide. That is only about 1" narrower than the rear section of my flatty, but the dash/cowl is almost 5" wider. 56" is only 3" narrower than a CJ7/YJ/TJ tub. It will be a good size. It almost has that 1940s pickup feel. I made sure to keep the 'cage' tucked into the body to preserve what interior space I do have. The height of the cab is a bit lower than a stock FJ40 because I will be reducing the crown in the top panel. The door opening is about 1" shorter than stock also. I did stretch the length of the cabin compared to a stock FJ45 pickup cab about 3" for a bit more legroom too.

Cheers.

 

[Mieser]

D side rear panel 99% done....



Overall it turned out well. I still have another 1/16 inch of trimming to do in a few places to tune the fit. That will come after I attach the passenger side panel permanently.

I am still on the fence about trying to form some 'bumps' in the panel. It is 16 gauge steel with a flange, so that basically rules out a bead roller. My HF 20 ton press is too narrow to accept the panel. I am still trying to think of some other options. The panel is so broad that it kinda annoys me that it is flat and smooth. All the 'flat' rear panel will be concealed by the front wall of the bed....and will be behind the front seats. I just don't know...

For some reason it finally occurred to me that I could measure the future depth of the bed since I have the rear belt line defined now. It looks like the bed will be 19" deep. That is a little deeper than I thought it was going to be which is nice. I should be able to create the false floor I need for the storage of the upper door units, and leave enough height to have a full size 13.5-14.5 wide tire without having it stick above the bed rail. Yipee.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If you made dies that fit the panel to create the contours you want, I'm sure it wouldn't cost much to pay a machine shop to use their larger press.

Alternately, and this isn't as glamarous, you could cut another piece of 16 gauge in the shape of the contour you want and then weld it to the outer panel. It'd be raised instead of indented, but it would still give the panel shape.

As yet another alternative, cut a window in the panel and fill it from the back with a larger piece of 16 gauge. The effect from the outside would be an indented contour.

 

[Mieser]

If you made dies that fit the panel to create the contours you want, I'm sure it wouldn't cost much to pay a machine shop to use their larger press.

Alternately, and this isn't as glamarous, you could cut another piece of 16 gauge in the shape of the contour you want and then weld it to the outer panel. It'd be raised instead of indented, but it would still give the panel shape.

As yet another alternative, cut a window in the panel and fill it from the back with a larger piece of 16 gauge. The effect from the outside would be an indented contour.

All good ideas. I would rather not add more welding. Finding a place with a larger press might work....

Cheers

 

[cruisedeisel]

Mad skills! I need a lesson in patience from you.

 

[Mieser]

Mad skills! I need a lesson in patience from you.

Thank you. I usually just make this stuff up as I go....

 

[Mieser]

Just little stuff while I wait for my seats to show up...





I don't know what that dumb bump in the floor was for originally? It's gone now! I think this will make it much easier to make the future tunnel. I am going to try and make as much room for the drivers right foot as possible in an effort to keep my bad knees for acting up.

Odd question of the day. Does anyone know what you would call the thick paperboard material that you find on the back of a notebook? Brown, light texture, about 1/16" thick, fairly rigid. I want to buy it in large sheets.

 

[Redgrrr]

If 3' wide material would work, Various building supply stores sell thick rolls of paper to protect hardwood floors after installation while the finish work and painting is completed.

 

[Mieser]

If 3' wide material would work, Various building supply stores sell thick rolls of paper to protect hardwood floors after installation while the finish work and painting is completed.

Thank you for the suggestion.

That stuff is too thin typically. I need something like a pressed cardboard/paper sheet that is about the thickness of the metal. Hopefully with enough stiffness to span fairly large distances without drooping. I think I am looking for 'chipboard' according to more research last night. It comes in various weights all the way up to about 1/8" thick. I need something about .06" thick. Poster board is too thin and floppy. Foam core board is a little too thick to accurately represent the parts.

 

[Redgrrr]

I should have been more clear. I was just looking up the thickness and you had replied already.
Apologies for the clutter.

Not rosin paper but a roll of "Ram board".

Would 46 Mil or .045" thick enuf?

 

[Mieser]

I should have been more clear. I was just looking up the thickness and you had replied already.
Apologies for the clutter.

Not rosin paper but a roll of "Ram board".

Would 46 Mil or .045" thick enuf?

.045 could be nice for 18 gauge. I have looked at the ram board products, if it wasn't rolled up it would be better. The pre-bend in it from being on the roll makes it a pain when you want a flat template.

I believe this is the stuff I am looking for....

Chipboard Pads - Brown Packaging, Inc.

You can get it all the way up to .140 thick.

Now I just need to find a local cheap source.

 

[Mieser]

What does everyone think on the tunnel....

Make it removable or weld it in place?

I found this excellent example on Ih8mud....





Mine will have to be a little more complex over the transfer case. My LT230 is pretty high in the chassis and not a petite unit.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I would say make it removable. It's very convenient to be able to remove the tunnel and have easy access to the transmission and transfer case for major or minor service.