Bleeding Brakes after removing one caliper (1 Viewer)

[chris0222]

I have a 1999 LX with 120K mi. The rear brakes were wore down through the pads with no noise warning until one day when they started making a horrible noise. I removed the tires to inspect, and the pads were almost down to the metal with the exception of the rear driver side where the caliper piston was actually grinding on the rotor with no sign of the pad at all. The piston now needs to be replaced.

I have all the parts to rebuild the caliper as well as install new pads and rotors.

My question is: Can I bleed just that one caliper after everything is put back together? If so how should it be done? I don't want to bleed the whole system if I don't have to as the whole system was just flushed 6 months ago. I do have a brake bleeding vacuum to make things easier.

Thanks For your help!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you've got the fluid system open, then you should bleed the whole thing. It is not difficult and doesn't require flushing the fluid again. At worst you'll have to add a little to the MC to replace what bleeds, that's about it.

 

[RedEuro]

I picked up one of these the other day from the mac truck that comes by our shop. I did brake lines yesterday on the LC, it made bleeding the system such a breeze! I highly recommend one of these, two thumbs up in my book.

BB2000 Brake Bleeder from MAC Tools

 

[NMuzj100]

I think you could probably do just the effected corner.

But the doing all four is easy after you already have on the coveralls and all the tools out. How are the pads on the other three corners?

 

[Michael Hanson]

What did the bleeder cost? MIke

 

[chris0222]

I think you could probably do just the effected corner.

But the doing all four is easy after you already have on the coveralls and all the tools out. How are the pads on the other three corners?

Pads are OK on the front but passenger rear was almost gone also. Front rotors have the shakes though so I am replacing rotors and pads at all 4 corners.

 

[OregonLC]

What did the bleeder cost? MIke

And how does it work? It is a venturi vacuum bleeder?

 

[cad0411]

Just remember to start bleeding the FURTHEST from the master cylider to make sure you have released any air in your lines.

 

[Topoguide]

At 120k miles the brake fluid has probably not been replaced. Since you are already in there you might as well flush the whole system. Since brake fluid is hygroscopic it is a good idea to replace it every so often for safe braking (many recommend every year). And if you're already replacing rotors and pads all the way around you may as well do the whole thing up right.

Also I might recommend rebuilding the caliper on the other side as well. It only adds a few minutes, but can provide safer braking in the long run.

 

[Skidoo]

Since you are going with new pads and rotors all the way around, means retracting pistons, would recommend bleed all 4 corners. Since you have recently flushed no need to flush again. Brake fuild is cheap. You sure the shakes are brakes? I would check front wheel bearings, which you might as well repack and adjust since you are in there.

 

[Topoguide]

I don't want to bleed the whole system if I don't have to as the whole system was just flushed 6 months ago.

Sorry, missed that. But I do think bleeding all is a good idea just to be on the safe side. Once upon a time I would have done just the one, so maybe I'm just getting old... but we are talking brakes.