I don't know how to start a poll, but if you had your choice, what would you do...blast, or acid dip?
Anyone with experiences in either?
Anyone with experiences in either?
Blast or dip
- Thread starter My wife said no FJ!
- Start date
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bj42
both dip and blast
both dip and blast
Luke111
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M416
Had my trailer dipped. Agree with Red Camel, dip somethings and blast others. If your plan is to re-seam seal everything then you might just dip everything This trailer had some mil spec paint that paint stripper would not remove but the dip removed everything.
Lou
Had my trailer dipped. Agree with Red Camel, dip somethings and blast others. If your plan is to re-seam seal everything then you might just dip everything This trailer had some mil spec paint that paint stripper would not remove but the dip removed everything.
Lou
Acid dip will get into those spots that a blaster will not,but if it is not neutrilized after the dip it can cause problems if it gets trapped under the paint.
Depends on what you're working with to begin with. Mainly paint stripping and etching, I'd say a dip. But if you have huge amounts of scale, pitting and loose stuff to get rid of, I'd go with sandblasting. Nothing like a good blast to determine how good your sheet metal really is. 
dipping vs. blast
Also-make sure that you can protect the cleaned surface shortly thereafter. Dipping will not reach all of the places in your cruiser that need to be looked at. For instance the rear sill, it is best to remove the inner channel as this is spot-welded so closely to the outer tub that dipping will not get at everything and you cant flow something into that space after the you have dipped-it anyway. I have attached a couple of pics from my current project. This is from an Arizona only truck and this is what was lurking under the wheel well supports.
The factory construction technique bonded raw metal to raw metal and left the inner surface untreated. My guess is that Toyota had no idea that there would be nut jobs like us caring for these things 30-50 years later....
One last thought-unless every seam has been separated, stripped, treated and rewelded there is no such thing as a rust-free Land Cruiser. They all rust.
Dave
Also-make sure that you can protect the cleaned surface shortly thereafter. Dipping will not reach all of the places in your cruiser that need to be looked at. For instance the rear sill, it is best to remove the inner channel as this is spot-welded so closely to the outer tub that dipping will not get at everything and you cant flow something into that space after the you have dipped-it anyway. I have attached a couple of pics from my current project. This is from an Arizona only truck and this is what was lurking under the wheel well supports.
The factory construction technique bonded raw metal to raw metal and left the inner surface untreated. My guess is that Toyota had no idea that there would be nut jobs like us caring for these things 30-50 years later....
One last thought-unless every seam has been separated, stripped, treated and rewelded there is no such thing as a rust-free Land Cruiser. They all rust.
Dave
It is true you cannot get at every tiny bit of rust but dip will get at more areas than a blaster,unless you are going to (Full Restoraion)disassemble every spot weld on the entire vehicle you will not get to it all.
You can slow it down to a crawl if you prep every nook and cranny and flow your primer (Etch Primer)into the seams holes and cracks,use seam sealer were required and high qaulity primer and paint.
Cruiserloser I have not worked on pre 78 Cruisers but all parts are prime before spot weld,I know I have dissasembled roof panels and found they were primed inside the two layers,spot welds will always be the start of rust there is nothing that you can do about it.
Short of dipping your entire body into a tank of primer and paint you can only reach were the spray gun will reach,if done properly paying attention to detail it will last another 20+ years.
You can slow it down to a crawl if you prep every nook and cranny and flow your primer (Etch Primer)into the seams holes and cracks,use seam sealer were required and high qaulity primer and paint.
Cruiserloser I have not worked on pre 78 Cruisers but all parts are prime before spot weld,I know I have dissasembled roof panels and found they were primed inside the two layers,spot welds will always be the start of rust there is nothing that you can do about it.
Short of dipping your entire body into a tank of primer and paint you can only reach were the spray gun will reach,if done properly paying attention to detail it will last another 20+ years.
