Blackstone Engine Oil Analysis - High Silicone

[Miescha]

I don't really have any concerns - though I'm curious about the silicone. Mostly, I thought I would post up the results so there are more comparison options in the future.

I did the analysis b/c I was making a change from dealer service with the Castrol GTX synthetic 5w-30 to doing it myself with Mobile 1 Diesel Truck 5w-40. I will do a second analysis after 5k.

FWIW: No work has been done on the engine (ever actually). The last oil change was done by the dealer and included a new Toyota air filter.

I don't know enough about the universal averages to know what is considered "high" vs just higher than the UA.

 

[cary]

Another great 80 report, these engines are just easy on oil. The most likely cause of high silicon is an intake leak or K&N air filter (lets dirt in).


BTW, Castrol GTX is a mineral oil. Again showing 5k changes on mineral oil in this engine are a walk in the park and it is unnecessary to go to a synthetic unless you are running longer intervals.

 

[Miescha]

Cary: Thanks for the response - I was really hoping to hear from you or raventai (the oil experts !).

Once again, mud members prove their knowledge. I did run a K&N air filter for about 8k miles. Then read of its disadvantages here on mud and dropped it for the factory filter. Any chance the silicone could be from an accumulation of dirt getting by the filter during that 8k - and still some in the engine after 5k of running on the OEM filter?

If not, I'll check the air intake very closely. I suppose a crack is not uncommon in an 11 year old system that experiences swings in temperature.

On the Castrol GTX being dino, the bottle says 'full synthetic' and the dealer hits me for an extra $50 or so at each oil change over the Castrol GTX dino that they usually use. Is this a matter of base group III vs IV (as with Rotella T) or something else?

I don't really care as the engine is doing fine and I'll be doing the changes myself in the future, I'm just curious why it would be advertised as full synthetic if it was a group III base stock (even if it acts like a synthetic - much like the Rotella).

Thanks!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Meischa,

As to your oil being synthetic. It's not. A few years ago a bunch of unsavory oil companies (that was redundant) decided they could arbitrarily begin putting 'synthetic' on their labels because the oil formulation was modified from dinosaur juice. Incredibly, the court agreed, so now you have to be a wise shopper to actually get what used to be considered a true synthetic. What you're essentially doing is what the oil companies want you to do - pay premium prices for an oil that is not truly synthetic. A couple weeks ago, I changed BOTH my 80s with full synthetic for under $50.

This is a long and convoluted topic that has been covered exhaustively here. Spare Cary the typing and take a look at the oil FAQ and/or do a search...

DougM

 

[LukeZero]

silicone= sticky shmutz for making gaskets, or caulking your shower door
silicon= sand or semiconductors

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Castrol GTX = Conventional mineral oil.

Castrol Syntec = Their version of synthetic, which many think is not.


So are you paying for Syntec, or being charged $50 more for conventional? You really should change it yourself. Then you know.

BTW-I'm no expert on oil analysis, but with an iron of 5 and a lead of 1, you have virtually no important wear in your engine. At that rate it will last 500k miles..

 

[Miescha]

This is a long and convoluted topic that has been covered exhaustively here. Spare Cary the typing and take a look at the oil FAQ and/or do a search...

DougM

Doug: Good point, I wasn't trying to start that conversation again. In fact, thanks to Cary and many others like yourself, the FAQ on oil and the many other oil-related posts are what brought me to switch from the Castrol 'synthetic' to Mobil 1 Diesel Truck 5w-40 (and do it myself). I was only asking about the Castrol as I didn't see it discussed anywhere - I figured it was a matter of base stock. Thanks for the help though.

So are you paying for Syntec, or being charged $50 more for conventional? You really should change it yourself. Then you know.

BTW-I'm no expert on oil analysis, but with an iron of 5 and a lead of 1, you have virtually no important wear in your engine. At that rate it will last 500k miles..

I agree and I'm on board now. I certainly hope you are right and I still have the engine at 500k!

Thanks all!