Black grease in the rear drum?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

EasternYeti

EasternYeti

10 Year
Joined
Jun 10, 2015
Threads
101
Messages
827
Location
Massachusetts
completed my left side and went to start my right side break shoes today and found a surprise in there.

It has a coating of black grease all over.

Is this a symptom of a bad axle seal or bearing, both? Am I safe to leave it like this or should this be resolve asap?

If so, does anyone know of good threads that detail the fix. This would be my first time replacing an axle seal of any kind
 
Probably gear oil mixed with brake dust. Check your axle seal and breather tube.

Or brake fluid mixed with brake dust. Check the cylinder for a leaking piston.

Any lubricant on a braking surface is bad. You will want to fix it immediately. Check for pitting on the bearing surface of the axle if you remove it to change the seal. Might as well go all the way in.
 
Check your axle seal and breather tube.

x3 - a stuck breather causes pressure, resulting in leaks. And there is no practical way to clean the brake shoes, so just order new ones.
 
SteveH said:
Check your axle seal and breather tube.

x3 - a stuck breather causes pressure, resulting in leaks. And there is no practical way to clean the brake shoes, so just order new ones.
Click to expand...

I put the new shoes in because those were definitely toast.

Because the axle leaked already, does that mean the seal is ruined?

And how do I check the tubes? I know that sounds really stupid but I've never done it before

For those that have done this before,

What would need to order to replace it all? C - Clip, seal, and bearing? And does anyone offer a kit?
 
For the breather tube - just take the hose off and clean it; or replace it. As easy as it sounds. If its badly clogged, good news; you've found your problem and you probably don't need to change your axle seals.

If you haven't had to add any brake fluid to your reservoir lately, the brake cylinder probably isn't leaking.

C-clips are reusable. I would recommend using an OEM seal and bearing (if you need to go that deep).
 
60Works said:
For the breather tube - just take the hose off and clean it; or replace it. As easy as it sounds. If its badly clogged, good news; you've found your problem and you probably don't need to change your axle seals.

If you haven't had to add any brake fluid to your reservoir lately, the brake cylinder probably isn't leaking.

C-clips are reusable. I would recommend using an OEM seal and bearing (if you need to go that deep).
Click to expand...

This is what i'll do if need be, i found a kit on SOR.

Does anyone have a Live Link to the FSM section which will detail the process of changing the wheel bearing??
 
The steps to change the rear wheel bearing are pretty basic...
Remove wheel and drum
Remove rear diff cover
Remove c-clip
Remove axle
Remove seal
Remove bearing

The only hard part for me was removing the bearing...I used a big slide hammer, and even then it took a pile of whacks and I was sweating by the time that bugger finally came out.
 
lovetoski said:
The steps to change the rear wheel bearing are pretty basic...
Remove wheel and drum
Remove rear diff cover
Remove c-clip
Remove axle
Remove seal
Remove bearing

The only hard part for me was removing the bearing...I used a big slide hammer, and even then it took a pile of whacks and I was sweating by the time that bugger finally came out.
Click to expand...

Do I need to worry about the preload on the axle when reassembling?

I bought a slide hammer and bearing puller attachment for it. Hoping I can leave the other half of the drum assembly on and just yank the axle out
 
EasternYeti said:
Do I need to worry about the preload on the axle when reassembling?

I bought a slide hammer and bearing puller attachment for it. Hoping I can leave the other half of the drum assembly on and just yank the axle out
Click to expand...
There's no pre-load on the semi-float axle. You slide it back in, put the c-clip in place, button every thing else up, add gear oil and drive. You can do just one side if you wish.
 
OKAY after literally four days of rain up here I got outside to check the breather.

I found that the rear breathers cap had corroded and no air was able to escape

With this being said I fixed the cap, but would that pressure which caused the initial leak be enough to ruin the seal? Or am I safe to keep an eye on it?

Worried about lack of grease within due the amount that sept out of it
 
EasternYeti said:
OKAY after literally four days of rain up here I got outside to check the breather.

I found that the rear breathers cap had corroded and no air was able to escape

With this being said I fixed the cap, but would that pressure which caused the initial leak be enough to ruin the seal? Or am I safe to keep an eye on it?

Worried about lack of grease within due the amount that sept out of it
Click to expand...
Anychance you took a pix of this? I'd be curious to see it.
 
On semi-float axles the wheel bearing is a flat roller bearing. It is lubricated with gear oil from the differential slopping around from side to side as the vehicle turns corners and leans on slopes. As long as you have gear oil in the diff, you have sufficient lube at the wheel bearing.

When an axle warms up from driving the air pressure inside increases. If the vent is open this pressure escapes. If the vent is clogged the pressure finds other paths to exit. It pushes out the axle and pinion seals. The seals aren't permanently damaged by this.

If you have cleared the vent hose internally, you've fixed your problem. Clean up your brakes with brake clean, put the drums and wheels back on, and start Cruising again.

:banana: :bounce:
 
60Works said:
On semi-float axles the wheel bearing is a flat roller bearing. It is lubricated with gear oil from the differential slopping around from side to side as the vehicle turns corners and leans on slopes. As long as you have gear oil in the diff, you have sufficient lube at the wheel bearing.

When an axle warms up from driving the air pressure inside increases. If the vent is open this pressure escapes. If the vent is clogged the pressure finds other paths to exit. It pushes out the axle and pinion seals. The seals aren't permanently damaged by this.

If you have cleared the vent hose internally, you've fixed your problem. Clean up your brakes with brake clean, put the drums and wheels back on, and start Cruising again.

:banana: :bounce:
Click to expand...

Thank you for this!!! I wanted to be sure before I button it up. The boss air bags go in this week and I wanted all my ducks in a row
 
If you do find yourself pulling axles etc I recommend going the extra step and replacing the light hardware and completely cleaning and lubing the E-brake bell cranks. Replacing the wheel cylinders with OEM would not hurt either. Its a 29 year old truck, you'd be surprised how well those rear drum brakes work when well maintained.
 
NCFJ said:
If you do find yourself pulling axles etc I recommend going the extra step and replacing the light hardware and completely cleaning and lubing the E-brake bell cranks. Replacing the wheel cylinders with OEM would not hurt either. Its a 29 year old truck, you'd be surprised how well those rear drum brakes work when well maintained.
Click to expand...

I just did the bell cranks as I was trouble shooting my ebrake last week and they're spotless (thank god)

I'm ordering the full rear axle seal kit from SOR today, just to have it on hand as I'm monitoring leak due to that breather issue

Does anyone know if the ARB air locker makes the axle removal more difficult? (Accessing the C Clip) ??
 
EasternYeti said:
I just did the bell cranks as I was trouble shooting my ebrake last week and they're spotless (thank god)

I'm ordering the full rear axle seal kit from SOR today, just to have it on hand as I'm monitoring leak due to that breather issue

Does anyone know if the ARB air locker makes the axle removal more difficult? (Accessing the C
Click to expand...
Very old post I know, but the exact same question that I’m looking for an answer too.

@EasternYeti James…or anyone that can comment, I’m about to remove my ‘86 fj60 C Clip D/S rear axle…THAT HAS AN ARB Locker. Same question as James:

Does anyone know if the ARB locker makes the axle removal more difficult? (Accessing the C Clip).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom