BJ74 crank but no start (1 Viewer)

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Just finished rebuilding my head and putting everything back together topped off all my fluids so I went to go and start my truck but as soon as I turned the key to accessory I heard a pop, so then I checked all my terminals; they were tight and everything seemed to be where it was supposed to be (I could be wrong) so I cranked my engine for 3 seconds and upon returning to see what was going on I noticed that the glow plug relay and the terminals on the intake heater were extremely warm. And one of my battery posts melted.... I’m at a loss for what I should do to solve this problem.
 
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I removed the glow plug system since it’s about 60 out. Still crank but no start. Thinking I may need a new fuel primer.
 
Got it to start, was running good then wouldn’t turn off, gonna assume it’s the vsv. Had a small diesel leak from the fuel filter lines. Now the truck starts - idles really rough then shuts off in a few seconds. I ordered a Bosch primer and some fuel washers. Hoping it’s as simple as that.
 
Hmm... was just stumbling on start up and upruptly dying. Now it’s not cranking. I tackled the diesel leak, waiting on the Bosch primer pump.
 
Did you put new gaskets on the fuel injection lines and injectors when you reinstalled them? Thats almost definitely an air problem you have.
As you have noticed, the problem is worse. Its most likely because the longer it sits, the more air is getting in.

Direct injection engines can usually start in the cold with out a glow system better than IDI engines. 60F shouldn't stop it from starting.
 
Did you put new gaskets on the fuel injection lines and injectors when you reinstalled them? Thats almost definitely an air problem you have.
As you have noticed, the problem is worse. Its most likely because the longer it sits, the more air is getting in.

Direct injection engines can usually start in the cold with out a glow system better than IDI engines. 60F shouldn't stop it from starting.

I did indeed put new gaskets on to stop the leak. I guess all I can do right now is wait for the primer pump to come in. I also probably need to get more fuel.

What is the correct procedure to bleed my fuel lines?
 
Disconnect the vacuum line at the shutdown lever (plug the end of the rubber line so the system builds vacuum). This will eliminate the VSV from the system as you troubleshoot. If you do have to replace the VSV it is a great opportunity to relocate it higher and easier access for future replacement. If the engine starts with the VSV line disco'd you can shut it off by activating the shutdown lever yourself (starving the engine of air), or moving the lever on the side of the pump (shutting the fuel off at the pump).

Sounds like you had/have a short with your connections when putting it all back together? While you may not need the glow where you are, it's nice to have it working. You can wire in an interrupt circuit to the factory temp sensor for the glow system, as it does not come on till around 0C (32F) and as things age its nice to give it a few seconds of glow around those temps to make a cleaner start.

If you don't have the service manuals download them. FU-3 of RM035E has the bleed instructions for the fuel filter and when having worked on the fuel feed pump. If needed a person can crank the starter and you can slightly loosen each injection line going into the nozzle for a moment to let air out. But with the amount of fuel that moves by the injectors on the 13BT I have not experienced problems getting fuel up to the injectors in the past; Once bled up to the fuel filter just short bursts of cranking have done it. Don't crank too long and let the starter cool down between cycles.

hth's
gb

Not sure of your comment about more fuel is you're thinking the tank is MT...but if so then yes...make sure enough.

Also make sure no posts are melting, sparks or other such things if you are going to introduce a combustible liquid into the engine bay (ala cracking the lines at the injectors). But as mentioned I have had good experience bleeding up to the fuel filter following the FSM, then cranking it over to move the fuel.
 
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Try pumping the hand pump a few times and then starting it. Or even get one person to pump while the other one cranks it.
 

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