I thought Canada had a good Samaritan law.
IE: You can't be sued for genuinely trying to help someone.
Cheers,
N.
BJ60/HJ60 - any nice ones left?
- Thread starter rstl99
- Start date
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I thought Canada had a good Samaritan law.
IE: You can't be sued for genuinely trying to help someone.
Cheers,
N.
I hear you but there are times when common sense and decency must over rule the idiotic laws and justice system.
Last year on our trip north from Central America on I-8 between Tuscon and Yuma (think deserted and HOT) we came upon an old couple with a blown radiator in the middle of the desert at high noon. I carry a tow strap and in my humble opinion it would have been inhumane to pass by that couple and read later that they may have died of exposure. I told my wife that if the cops would decide to issue me a ticket for using a tow strap in that instance that I'd be more than happy to pay AND more than happy to publicize the injustice!!
I tow strapped them to the next exit where there was a corner store and place they could get out of the heat.
No, the state patrol did not ticket me or even see it!
You are joking, right?
I'll look at my bottle for a Mil-spec. Somehow I doubt it has one.
Tectyl is great stuff. But read your MSDS, I believe it is pretty nasty for exposure. Might be a strong carcinogen.
I agree, but that's not how insurance companies see this and not how the police see it either. You were lucky, I was ticketed (you're supposed to do it with a tow bar as a minimum).
MIL-C-16173D GRADE 2
Got two cans infront of me: Mil-prf-16173E GRD 2, the other GRD 4 which dries to a harder finish. Both probably very carcenogenic which means they are probably very effective. All the good stuff kills everything. Mastinox = yellow death
I would not use a carcenogenic substance inside my vehicle. Maybe under and in the frame, but not inside doors and rockers..... too close for comfort.
Dinitrol dries up and does not have any smell after a day or so.
LP3 stays greasy/waxy... does not dry. Also LPS3 does stink for a bit. say a week or so. But then you don't smell it any more.
Dinitrol dries up and does not have any smell after a day or so.
LP3 stays greasy/waxy... does not dry. Also LPS3 does stink for a bit. say a week or so. But then you don't smell it any more.
- Thread starter
- #50
Back on the BJ/HJ60 search thread.
A couple of interesting Cruisers I'm sort of chasing down (one is 5 hours away, the other 3.5 hours, so I'm dealing with long-distance logistics for viewing and possibly purchasing, we'll see...).
1. 1984 FJ60 with 77,000 miles that has had a high-mileage BJ60 drivetrain swapped in (3B and 5 speed). No AC. Frame off paint job, bunch of new stuff. $10K US.
2. 1986 HJ60 with 250,000 kms, auto, AC. Very stock. Asking $12cdn but would likely take less. Paint job a few years ago, looks really nice. Recently tuned up (injectors etc). Everything apparently works on it.
Mulling over which one would be best for my use: city driving, and mainly on-road (paved or not) "expedition" type travelling up North and down South. 3B vs 2H, auto vs manual, AC or not...
So: nice ones ARE out there, but one has to be prepared to pay a bit for them.
A couple of interesting Cruisers I'm sort of chasing down (one is 5 hours away, the other 3.5 hours, so I'm dealing with long-distance logistics for viewing and possibly purchasing, we'll see...).
1. 1984 FJ60 with 77,000 miles that has had a high-mileage BJ60 drivetrain swapped in (3B and 5 speed). No AC. Frame off paint job, bunch of new stuff. $10K US.
2. 1986 HJ60 with 250,000 kms, auto, AC. Very stock. Asking $12cdn but would likely take less. Paint job a few years ago, looks really nice. Recently tuned up (injectors etc). Everything apparently works on it.
Mulling over which one would be best for my use: city driving, and mainly on-road (paved or not) "expedition" type travelling up North and down South. 3B vs 2H, auto vs manual, AC or not...
So: nice ones ARE out there, but one has to be prepared to pay a bit for them.
If you're traveling "down south" then A/C is a real nice feature depending on how "down south" you are planning on going.
I'm a manual tranny type of guy 'cause I've seen too many folks left on the side of the road with an automatic.
I'm well aware of that but I'm also well aware that if I'd left those folks on the side of the road they may well have died there!
Some how I think that a sensible cop or judge (if it came to that) would not issue a ticket, or would throw it out, in that case. If it were a less "life and death" situation I may have done something different but this was 115 F in the middle of the desert with NOTHING around. If the same situation occurs again I'd do the same thing!
Great to hear, stand your ground, every now and then we need to send a message to those zealot shortsighted bureaucrats!
I have been thinking about doing this.
Don't suppose you could elaborate one the swap.
Whats involved and how long it took.
Move mounts, and then merge the diesel harness.
Or did you just use the diesel harness?
Is it the same harness, with different sub harnesses?
Can't see it being to much wiring. But curious to know.
Move a few of the interior diesel specific stuff (fuel sep, and glow light).
Cheers,
N.
Don't suppose you could elaborate one the swap.
Whats involved and how long it took.
Move mounts, and then merge the diesel harness.
Or did you just use the diesel harness?
Is it the same harness, with different sub harnesses?
Can't see it being to much wiring. But curious to know.
Move a few of the interior diesel specific stuff (fuel sep, and glow light).
Cheers,
N.
- Thread starter
- #56
I must admit I'd feel more comfortable with a 12v truck (BJ60) than a 24v one (HJ60)!
My friend CHris had a look at the truck for me and I was able to speak to the owner. There's a few things to be checked out for sure, but so far it looks promising. We'll see...
(I amended my profile so my location is shown - I'm way out in Ottawa, wish I was in BC given the great places you people have to explore with your trucks!)
Cheers!
So how much wiring work from a BJ60 to a FJ60.
Is there a sub harness? Or do you need to cut out parts of the diesel one and splice in?
About how many engine wires to deal with? 10? 20? 5?
I am guessing the FJ60 charging circuit stays, and starting circuit etc...
So it just the wires for the motor? Is that right?
Thinking about doing this. Opinions would be nice.
Also, do you think a BJ70 would work for the swap?
I know a BJ60 would be ideal (for dash pieces), but I could probably find the few I need.
Thanks,
Nick
Is there a sub harness? Or do you need to cut out parts of the diesel one and splice in?
About how many engine wires to deal with? 10? 20? 5?
I am guessing the FJ60 charging circuit stays, and starting circuit etc...
So it just the wires for the motor? Is that right?
Thinking about doing this. Opinions would be nice.
Also, do you think a BJ70 would work for the swap?
I know a BJ60 would be ideal (for dash pieces), but I could probably find the few I need.
Thanks,
Nick
Nick, if you go this way with the BJ70 I'll swap you the '70 harness for the '60 harness I have for the FJ45LV. It doesn't matter to me which one I use but for a FJ60/BJ60 swap using a BJ60 harness will make things easier.
Probably pretty expensive when I can get a rusty BJ60 for around $1000.
I could rebuild it and turbo it, and still be way less probably.
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