BJ60/HJ60 - any nice ones left?

[Enigma]

while its not a 60, its at least described as a clean US rust free truck anyways:

http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=113779


an option at least anyways?

 

[cruiser_guy]

keep oiling it or it will be like the rest soon enough

Don't worry, it's already had a treatment of "Krown" before the first winter and I'll be cleaning out the frame rails this summer too. It likely won't see too many northern winters though.

These frames will not be as easy to find in another 25 years!!

 

[brownbear]

These frames will not be as easy to find in another 25 years!!

continue oiling it.... I highly doubt it will fail in 25yrs. More likely 100 years. Thats the problem with people buying new vehicles. If they treated them like it was the last vehicle you will buy, and oiled it really good the metal would not rot away,

 

[canucksafari]

Brownbear, what are you using to oil your frame? I was going to repaint my undercarriage last summer but never got to it. When I bought my truck last summer here was no rust to be seen. In Nov with the rains I discovered two small rust holes around the rear seat mounts. I cut that out and had my neighbour weld in new sheet metal. I haven't had a good look yet after this past winter.

My dad use to spray the underside of his vehicles with motor oil. I am not so sure I want to do that. I have heard of people using linseed oil. My next door neighbour rebuilds classic cars (same guy that did the welding for me) and really hates rubber and tar undecoatings. If the frame and undercarriage isn't bone dry when sprayed on it promotes rust. Also when it gets old and cracks or is rock chipped, it allows water in and holds the moisture between the coating and the metal. So, regularly spraying oil seems to be the best thing but I am unsure of what oil to use.

 

[cruiser_guy]

My next door neighbour rebuilds classic cars (same guy that did the welding for me) and really hates rubber and tar undecoatings. If the frame and undercarriage isn't bone dry when sprayed on it promotes rust. Also when it gets old and cracks or is rock chipped, it allows water in and holds the moisture between the coating and the metal. So, regularly spraying oil seems to be the best thing but I am unsure of what oil to use.

John, I concur with your neighbour, the tar undercoat is BAD NEWS!!

I have used Krown for the past 15-20 years on the 'Cruiser. It works good. My problem was getting rid of the tar crap under the truck.

Do a google search on Krown, there are some places around local that do it. I do it every year before winter and before the really wet weather sets in.

 

[kim]

"BJ60/HJ60 - any nice ones left?"

A few. I am lucky enough to own one that is in excellent shape. I bought it from a lady that drove it from a garage to underground parking for 14 years straight. I don't think it was even wheeled mildly.

The trouble is, something in that good of shape is pricey!

 

[Rod McD]

When I did my Forty,around five years ago.I had it right down to frame,wire brushed and grinded it.I finnished off with POR-15.Still when I get underneath to power-wash it looks like the day I redid it.I think the trick was to get inside the frame rails as much as you possably can.POR-15 is amazing stuff,but don't get it in your eye,it really hurts!But thats another story.

 

[Helomech]

I've been using fluid film which is a lanolin oil on my truck. You can get a 4L can at Princess Auto. It's a bit pricey though and it always stays runny. I remember someone saying to take it on a dusty gravel road after to thicken it up. We've got a few pails of some corroision preventative at work that dries to a tough waxy finish. I'm going to use that next time over the rust converter.

 

[Fantom]

There is always the option of getting an 80, they are a bit better because the metal used was a bit higher in quality. If you are dead stuck on a 60 and don't want to pay ridiculous amounts of money for something that is hopefully rust free and not made to look it, then a US FJ60 or JDM might be your only option. There is always the chance of finding that mint truck for a killer price but it is even more rare now then ever before. If you do get one, whether local or US, spend the time to fix the design flaws that Toyota did to prolong the life of it. The back channel on the frame is a perfect example along with insufficient (or badly placed) holes for drainage in all the doors, rear hatches, rockers, etc. A bit of work now will save a lot of money later. In my truck I cut the lip in the rear wheel well that traps dirt, mud and moisture and rots out. A bit of work but worth doing.

 

[Mud_Guppie]

3B diesel conversion for FJ60

buy a US FJ60
Jerry scored this one cheap, so cheap it gave me a headache when he told me
it has a really clean interior, original paint, beautiful frame etc
we took Jerry's rusted out BJ60, gutted it and stuck it into his new FJ60

it's simple to do, minimal welding (front mounts), we needed to drill a couple of holes and did some cleaning. We also added a new clutch, prepped for AC, and some usual maintenance for the out of province inspection and it was done

You could easily use a 13BT or 12HT. The conversion was a lot easier to do then some of the V8 swaps we've done.

 

[Greg_B]

Some may not agree with me, but I think its better to buy an original factory diesel Cruiser than to try to put one in a gasser and fiddle forever with trying to make it run right.

I think someone else answered this, but the reality is any of the older Toy diesels are a dead ass simple swap electrically, however as always the devil is in the details...to make it look stock, and be simple/neat. These older diesels can run right, just sitting on the ground with nothing around it cept fuel and means to start. The only time you get into issues and complications are in the 80 series swaps (1HD-T/A442 and up) as the interface needs lots of mapping.

But...keep it simple (3B, 13BT, 12HT, 1HZ---mated to the appropriate H55F) and find a rust free southern 60...then rust treat every year as has been talked about. This meets your want of simple, reliable and rugged.

Depending on your pocket and skill level you could take a clean JDM of your choice, and plunk in a LHD firewall. To do it right talks time and money, however it can be done (Ciaran Wilson of Cruiserland in Langley has done a few).

Or do as Steve just did...swap in the drivetrain to a clean truck. This is being done all over North America. Search of the 60 series and diesel/24V forums will lead to many threads on it.

hth's

gb

 

[Greg_B]

I've been using fluid film which is a lanolin oil on my truck. You can get a 4L can at Princess Auto. It's a bit pricey though and it always stays runny. I remember someone saying to take it on a dusty gravel road after to thicken it up. We've got a few pails of some corroision preventative at work that dries to a tough waxy finish. I'm going to use that next time over the rust converter.

Fluid film, Rust Check (Cdn Tire), Boe-Shield T-9, LPS 3, 3M Rust Proofing (more waxy), Pro-Form Wax Based Permanent Rustproofing (quite a nice product)...all will do much to save metal if applied every year...or sometimes twice a year in the real bad salt areas.

Dunno if it really makes a difference, but I like spraying the Fluid Film 1st, then waiting a few weeks and going over everything again with something wax based like Pro-Form. I've also made a witch's brew of Boeshield T-9, Fluid Film and 3M rust proofing and sprayed this with a rust proofing gun.

hth's

gb

 

[Helomech]

Wondering if it's possible to do the 3B/13B-T diesel swap into an FJ62 as well. Would I have to add some anchor nuts in the frame for a FJ/BJ60 tranny cross member, or does a 62 frame have them in the right spot? Would a 60 series cross member even work? From what I understand a 62 frame has the crossmember further back for the auto.

I like the dash and floor layout of the 62 better, and the frame looks like it has more heavy duty cross members as well. I would definatly find one with AC.

 

[brownbear]

HeloMech, that corrosion stuff you have work may be Dinitrol. Great stuff. But the surface needs to be as clean as you would to paint. If it is dirty it does not displace the moisture and can cause problems later.

I am a plane mech, and played a bunch with dinitrol on seaplanes.


Personally I would spray LPS 3 in my frame and underneath. Fluid film maybe too. But lPS 3 is a really decent waxy coating.

 

[brownbear]

There is always the option of getting an 80, they are a bit better because the metal used was a bit higher in quality.

I've heard a lot of people say that. But if you look at other toyota trucks in the 90's like a 4runner, they are all suffering rust pretty bad now. So I think the reason the 80's are better is cause they spent the first part of thier life in the south and not too many harsh Canuck winters logged yet. Lets see when they are 23 yrs old or 23 yrs in Canada like my BJ60.....

 

[brownbear]

buy a US FJ60
Jerry scored this one cheap, so cheap it gave me a headache when he told me
it has a really clean interior, original paint, beautiful frame etc
we took Jerry's rusted out BJ60, gutted it and stuck it into his new FJ60

it's simple to do, minimal welding (front mounts), we needed to drill a couple of holes and did some cleaning. We also added a new clutch, prepped for AC, and some usual maintenance for the out of province inspection and it was done

You could easily use a 13BT or 12HT. The conversion was a lot easier to do then some of the V8 swaps we've done.

It's amazing how much better a 3b looks in a 60 than a gasser engine. The gasser sure looks like s*** with all the tubes coming out of it..... 3B= simple

 

[Helomech]

Brownbear, the stuff we've got is a Tectyl product. Mil-C-something. You're right, would probably work alot better if the surface corrosion is removed first. Would you happen to know the mil spec and class of LPS 3 off hand?

 

[rstl99]

buy a US FJ60
it's simple to do, minimal welding (front mounts), we needed to drill a couple of holes and did some cleaning. We also added a new clutch, prepped for AC, and some usual maintenance for the out of province inspection and it was done

You could easily use a 13BT or 12HT. The conversion was a lot easier to do then some of the V8 swaps we've done.

Thanks for all the advice folks. Indeed, the pristine BJ60/HJ60 sounds like a pretty elusive (and pricey) beast in Canada. Recently someone around Toronto was selling an 87 HJ60 with 88,000kms, no rust, stock original everything. Owner had bought it new, shipped it to Greece, where he used it for driving around during his annual 2 month visits. He recently brought it back to sell, because he no longer needed it over there. He asked over $18,000 for it! Couldn't manage to go see it, not sure if it sold, but it sounded like a lot of money (compared to JDM's...)

The FJ60 route (swap in a good diesel drivetrain) may be the way to go, but I'd have to get the work done, as my skills and gumption don't allow me to tackle that kind of work. Maybe I can find one that's been already done up (though I imagine that someone who would do that, and do it right, would hang onto the vehicle.)

I'd like to find something solid that I could fix up and equip for "expedition" use, for a total cost of roughly $13-15K (fridge, roof rack, maybe tent on top, etc.), then head out for nice road trips across N-A.

Eventually, something interesting, worthwhile and affordable will pop up closeby... Time is on my side I suppose...

And JDM is always an option I suppose (though bit pricey for my budget), if something worthwhile doesn't materialize.

Cheers!

 

[Enigma]

There was a nice gold coloured one on the drive home today, lady driven. I thought of following her home, but the last time I did that I ended up in jail.

 

[83bj60]

There was a nice gold coloured one on the drive home today, lady driven. I thought of following her home, but the last time I did that I ended up in jail.

Yeah, I can hear some of you laughing thinking this is a joke, but it's no laughing matter, you can't even help someone in need of help without exposing yourself to a lawsuit.

I don't carry a tow strap anymore for a good reason, and I don't pickup hitchhikers for that reason as well.

Last year an insurance company sued the widow of a accident victim for damage to the car that mowed him down... No kidding, it made the local news!

Disclaimer: living may be dangerous to your health and I will not be held liable for anything you may or may not do in my presence or absence based on what I said or not.