Builds BJ42 Restoration

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2.5-3 seems fine. I've known John for almost 25 years and I'd trust his judgement.

I'm running 33s and am only a tad over stock height. Mind you, my front fenders are 1.5" higher than stock, and the rears are cut out to the inner fenders. Even at full flex, the tires clear.
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Right on, Hey nice ride by the way! John ensures me I will be more than happy so I'm sure I will be. I'll be off work in 4 days then back at it. Hopefully get the wheels under the front end and start on the rear suspension when it comes in.


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I have a tip back when I was a
Mechanic and I use it for for repacking birfs or CV axles.
Pick up the small plastic CV axle grease bags from any automotive supply store brand name Monroe or moog or whatever. Cut one corner of the bag off at an angle, stick the open end into each roller ball opening on one side of the roller ball and tilt the axle shaft a little bit to deepen the opening, push down firmly and squeeze the bag. The grease easily pushes into the joint around the roller ball and packs the joint. Do this for each ball, it's easy and works like a charm.
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Right on, Hey nice ride by the way! John ensures me I will be more than happy so I'm sure I will be. I'll be off work in 4 days then back at it. Hopefully get the wheels under the front end and start on the rear suspension when it comes in.

Thanks...:D it's been very good to me over the last 22 years. The to do list never quite seems to end, but it is getting shorter.
 
This week has been productive, I picked up the rear cross sill,front fender towers,rad frame and fan shroud. All of these are painted to a gloss black. I have picked up a couple if bags if the Japanese import plated bolts from my local Lordco dealer and it's nice to work with new hardware.
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I also took delivery of my new OME 2.5" Dakar deluxe suspension package. Looks super nice up close and is obviously quality stuff. I will post pictures of this suspension as it goes in. To date I have the OME front springs, rear shocks, greasable shackles front and rear and a new bushing kit. I am still waiting for front shocks, rear leafs, and the front housing shim kit. Some of these things have a lengthy back order time of 4-6 weeks, but that's ok I have other things to keep me busy for the mean time.
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I'm going to stay with the original air cleaner that sits behind the RH battery. It's worked for 30 years so I figure it will make it another thirty.


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So I finally had a very productive day today, installed the front leaf springs and hangers. I loosely mounted the recored radiator so it is off the floor and won't get damaged. Then I repacked the new front bearing with new rotors and new callipers. I had only one set back today and that was the RH dust seal that rides on the rotor, I tightened the seal on to the backing plate but I can't remember If I finished torquing it. It's better to pop it off tomorrow to be in the safe side.
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I hope I have this put together correctly, I know if there is a mistake with how I mounted these the guys on mud will find it. Have a look at it and let me know because is rather change it now then later.
I guessed that the positive goes to te left drivers side maybe to counter the lean issue that some cruisers develop or? And I put the negative on the right hand side. Have a look at the end of the springs the drivers top leaf is not touching the bushing like the RH side, is that normal?

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One of the leafs on the current chassis has the same problem, installed these new leafs about 2 years ago, think its in the leaf manufacture stage, also remember the first set had the same problem, my leafs are Old Man Emu brand. Does not seem do cause any problems in drivability for me, and I had a professional wheel alignment done with no problems.
 
I found out from John at Radd cruisers that my front hangers were upside down. It was easy to 180 them. Here is a pic of the correction
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Sorry to say ... but your anti-inversion shackles are indeed mounted incorrectly CW.

The most-pointed end of the triangle shape (of the shackle plates) should always be at a spring-eye.

And the smaller-dia bolt (for the anti-inversion feature) is designed to hit the chassis rail (on the inner-side of the pivot-point about which the shackle moves) to prevent inversion from happening when the weight comes back down on the spring (if say you've hit a big bump at speed and are now airbourne with your spring leaves at maximum arch from having no weight at all on them).

:beer:

Cripes must have taken 14 minutes to type this because your last post wasn't there when I started?
 
Ha ha, sorry lost marbles, in that 14 minutes I flipped both of them around.
It looks better now, the instructions tell you how to assemble the hanger but not which way to install it on the vehicle. No problem it was an easy fix. In another week the rear springs should be in and then when they are in it's some time off for the summer.


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So I'm at a cross road right now regarding body paint and choosing a future 3/4 tub. Do I stay with the original Nordic Blue with white top and buy a steel 3/4 tub or do I go with a custom grey colour and aluminum tub from aqualu? I am torn right now and just need some input on overall value and end results. I like the blue but it's not my first choice of car colours. Let's hear what you guys have to say, I do still have time as I am still months away from starting the body paint.


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My $0.02 for what it's worth. Blue 857, beige 464 or red (freeborn -can't remember the code off hand but it's easy to find here on Mud. Stock colours only for that vintage/year.

Why?
-They are factory colour options.
-If you ever sell, God forbid, way better for resale.
-Custom colours befit a custom truck.
-You seem to be keeping it close to stock like my trucks (with OME upgrades - but it's similar to stock spings pre-sag. -Easier to get 'collector's plates' which require a minimum of 20 glossy photos.
-Aluminum all the way. I have seen how "steel restorations" fare in our part of the world. It's not pretty.

That's all that comes to mind at the moment. As a matter of fact, I am biased because I have both a blue and beige truck.
Best Regards
-Justin (Stock, diesel, purist...)

PS Factory white stock wheels or steelies with hubcaps for wheels :) White always looked great because it matched the factory HT (Cygnus white, as I recall).
 
Thanks Justin, I appreciate your input as always. I have been mulling that exact thing over whether to stay with the blue that it originally was registered with, but if I go that way then I should stay original and use a steel tub. I originally wanted to build a custom 42 with a nice grey coat of paint, aluminum wheels and ARB bumper and MT tires but now I am doubting myself. I still have time but I do need to firm things up by the end of summer. Doesn't really matter which way I go I won't sell it after all of this.


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fwiw ...My old fav is 464 beige and would go steel if you can galvanize the tub and rhino the underside and inner floors.
Steel would be easier to repair if you had to weld it or remove a dent and idealy has a more of an ' original look'.
Steel will have a natural ground also. Not slamming Aqualuu, they make an excellent product.
oh and if you put a bolt or nut on something then anti-seize it ! You will thank yourself years later when doing a repair.
Great work !
 
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I'd vote blue... That'll likely be my next real paint job I reckon.
 

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