Builds BJ42 Restoration (1 Viewer)

[Crescent Wrench]

I was able to buy a good used front diff housing off of "tootall" who lives on the Island as well, he knows these cruisers inside and out and I will have to bend his ear in the future as I am torn between going a 4" HFS or OME lift or doing the extra work involved and doing the SOA conversion. "tootall" had a couple of rigs there that were soa and they looked impressive, I am just unsure about the military wraps, hangers flips, cutting the axle tube to adjust the angle and what else lingo that is still foreign to me at this time. I get the gist of it but I just haven't done one before so I am a little hesitant to just start cutting and moving stuff around. I guess I could precut everything and mock it up and spin the steering knuckles until the drive shaft angle looks good, but I think I will hold out until I can find someone nearby that has done one before. I know that you want a slight angle to your ujoints so they work a bit and that they shouldn't be straight on at least that's what I've been taught in the marine industry doing shafting, but there is probably a pre-measured angle to go by. I will do some research before I tackle that part of it.
As of now I'm low on cash and I need to stop the bleeding of the bank account, I'll finish up the sheet metal I have and start assembling what I can and hopefully get her to a rolling rig by late summer, then comes the 3B rebuild which hopefully won't cost me another 3 grand. I am counting on a crank polish and will contact a machine shop to bore the liners .010 or ,020 over not because its Kaput but because the #2 cylinder ate half a exhaust seat years ago and scored the cylinder wall a bit, I replaced the piston and rings and just honed the liner as best I could at that time. A good measurement of the cylinders will reveal the shape she's in and will dictate which direction I will go.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

This is what my garage looks like right now and I am going nuts trying to move around inside. I will own acreage one of these days with a big friggin shop, but as my wife says it doesn't matter how much property or how big the shop I will find ways to fill them up Ha!

 

[Hogan]

Sorry late post, this is about the 45 in the field on page one of this thread.

It's a hard one to see I think it's actually all there but I can ask my friend. My wife would shoot me dead if I even looked at it ha ha!

Why are they like that, don't they know it's a good deal. Explain it this way, tell her that you feel the same way about Land Cruiser that she does about shoes (or what ever she likes to buy that you don't get) on sale.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Hogan that sir is some funny s*** right there !!! ha ha
If I owned half as many LC as she has shoes I would be a very busy boy~

 

[Crescent Wrench]

So I took a load to the body shop yesterday and told them to clean up and bondo the repairs and epoxy primer everything so that I can store them until I am ready for paint. I have to head back to work and the sheet metal should be done when I get back next week so I will post some new pics. I am also taking the roll bar to be powder coated tomorrow as well so it should be done next week too.
Next weeks project is to start pulling diffs apart and checking bearings and replacing seals so that will be good. Also I will start to assemble the front diff, pack the birfs and get the axles together. If all goes well I will pull the transfer-case apart to inspect and reseal and paint as well but that might be getting a little ambitious we will see how it goes.

Till next week
cheers!

 

[lostmarbles]

This is what my garage looks like right now ...

I envy all your wide-open space dude. This is mine...

There's a couple of spare doors and even a spare engine for my cruiser in there somewhere. Plus lots else..

 

[alberta mac]

I'm impressed with the welding ! and impressed what one can do when we buy a cruiser of what it has us doing that we may never have thought of with no skill, to then find out how well we did it like your self !
Some not only welding but machining, upholstery and you name it.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Lostmarbles: Ha ha you absolutely win the crowded garage competition. I am a big guy so I get cranky when I get hung up on something or bang my head for the 10th time that day. Once the diffs are back together I should be able to get a little trail going from the bench to the tool box and to the Toyota, that's all I will need for now Ha!

Alberta Mac: I used to weld a lot when I was younger but never sheet metal that's for sure, it is finicky and very labour intensive to get it right, and I am not saying I am good at it by any stretch but I try hard and that sometimes is enough. I spent hours and hours on the hard top sides to repair the rust patches and they were actually in good shape before I started in my opinion. I learned that less is more with sheet metal, weld a little bit and let it cool, I do 3 or 4 stitches and move to another corner or area to give it time to cool down. This is much different then sitting on a 10' loader bucket welding in a new wear edge or welding on a ship were they stick you in a void space with an arm load of 7018 and say see you at lunch, but I sure like my cruiser and don't mind the long days I am putting in. The first round of sheet metal is getting epoxied now so I can concentrate on the running gear, something that I am a little more familiar with at least. See you guys next week when I am back from work.

 

[jvanhove]

Hello,
From one 40 owner to another:

Regarding suspension, what are you going to be doing with the truck? Long trips, pavement and gravel? Backcountry exploration only, all round town-and-country? Daily Driver? The reason I ask is because your suspension choice depends on what you're planning on using it for. I have had stock springs, EMU's, parabolics (yikes!!) and SOA conversions on my 40/42's. I can tell quite honestly that among the choice given, you'll have plusses and minuses whichever way you go. Keep in mind that no matter what, these vehicles handle like antique farm equipment. I'm not saying that to discourage you.

SOA
-Pros... great flex/articulation, nice handling with limited 'rocking' typical in a short wheel base.
-Cons...Longer brake lines needed. Hard to fit in underground garages, driveshaft and driveline issues/mods necessary, particularly with 5spd trucks with short rear driveshaft to begin with. Cut and turn axle housing has implications...track bar? gussets?

OME Kit
- Pros...easy enough install, good durability, close to ideal ride height
-Cons...no adjustability (on shocks), depending on who you talk to, too stiff. I don't know about that one because a guy can get soft, medium or hard springs (bilsteins and/or rs9000 adj. shock absorbers)

Shackle reversal
??? No personal experience, only high awareness. Those who have this always sing the praises.

4" HFS
CCOT product. No idea. But you can fit 33X12.5 nicely.

Parabolics
-Just don't. Ask Steve at EBI about this one. He'll laugh

Although that was brief, I hope it was a little bit helpful for you when it comes time for suspension upgrades.

Cheers,
Justin

Subscribed - Great work so far. Have you considered an Aqualu body and for the rest of it: Gozzard doors, windscreen and HT? That might just be the ticket for your build...

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Thanks for the thorough walk through, very much appreciated. I used to drive this BJ years ago when my dad owned it and I remember the ride being very choppy. I understand that if you ask 10 people's opinions you'll get 10 different answers and that's ok cause we're all different. I think I will go the OME because I can get them locally and they have their share of positive reviews. I just have to decide whether to go 2.5 or 4". She will never see mud again, it will be my spring to fall DD and the toughest she will see is gravel roads to a fishing hole with my kids. Having said that once the shine is off in a few years she could be pressed back into moose hunting service which is anything goes, just no rock crawling or bogging.
I am going the aqualu rear tub and I am still on the fence about the front cowl as I haven't started on that part yet. If I am happy with the end product I will reinstall the cowl if not then i will go a aqualu cowl as well. I have one ambulance door and one passenger door that needs a new bottom which will happen probably this winter. I have contacted Gozzard about hard top sides but have since found good donors and they are at the body shop now, the gozzard windshield frame is $900+ which makes it the most expensive windshield replacement out there. I will cross that bridge when I get to it, immediately coming up is the suspension so I will get on that faulty quickly. I think I will be happy running 33's so I think a 4" should work nicely. And who know once she's been on the road for a few years I can always change it around and try the soa if my needs change.




can always


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[jvanhove]

Very cool. I think, like many others, you'll be quite happy with the OME kit. I have emu springs on my '83 DD. Soa is great in many ways, but unnecessary for my purposes.
Wow I can't believe the gozzard windshields are that expensive. Zero rust equals long term happiness, I suppose.

By the way, it's a real pleasure to see someone such as yourself, saving another one. From sources I've seen, there were only 167 made in 1983 and sent to Canada. I love the Nordic Blue (Code 857) as well, but I have an obvious bias. I have done an incredible amount of work to and it just keeps on coming. I sure enjoy it though. As a matter of fact, the first service was the front inner axle seals It's a dirty one but necessary. I went OEM not Marlin on those too.
The fuel diaphragm is next as I'm experiencing issues with my idle.

If I can help in any way here, with ideas, parts or resources, please ask 'cause you never know.

It's funny I was thinking of driving it only in Spring and Summer too, but now it looks like it'll be year round. It's too much fun not too and these days you sure don't see a lot of 40's on the road anyone...
-Justin

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Well not much note worthy to report, I had a crappy week working on the cruiser over the Easter long weekend. I was working on the front diff which I had bought a few weeks ago due to the steering balls being in better shape than mine. After sandblasting it and cleaning it up perfectly I started to assemble it, when I got the knuckle on and the new wiper seals in place I go to install the short side axle first and low and behold it doesn't clear the ball opening. Whatever diff this is it is identical on the outside but the opening is like 2 mm smaller then my old one and my birfs won't go in. I almost fainted, I lost two days work and then had to refurbish my old one. I can't believe it I thought they would be the same all the way down through the years. What bad luck. Anyone need a diff housing? Painted and fully reconditioned lol!


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[Crescent Wrench]

On another note I ordered my suspension yesterday, bits and pieces will be arriving over the next 6 weeks. Ended up going with the OME heavy springs and all the bells and whistles. That will be the end of the big spending till fall or until I can come up with extra work. Cheers


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[bikersmurf]

Most just grind 2mm off the housing. A common problem when installing 79 or newer Birfields into older housings.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

I see, I should have asked that question before I started all over again. Doesn't matter now, my original diff is in good shape after several hours of JB weld and sanding.


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[Crescent Wrench]

Bikersmurf: grinding the opening to clear doesn't weaken the axle significantly? I never actually looked at it in that perspective. I could have used a burr grinder to open it up quite quickly. Next time I guess.


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[bikersmurf]

Never seems to be a problem. The newer housings have a factory machined larger opening. When I converted to discs, it seemed like I'd have to open it up, but the 76 birfields just fit into my 74 housings... Good thing because back in 1993, I wouldn't have known to grind it out either.... Before Mudd.

 

[alberta mac]

Crecent Wrench : You'll be happy goiing 4'' and 33's I ran my 83bj42 that way for years and felt it had everything just right with it, looks, handling, approach angles and not too high either, handled great on the highway and trails and was easier working under it in the driveway !

''It's funny I was thinking of driving it only in Spring and Summer too, but now it looks like it'll be year round. It's too much fun not too and these days you sure don't see a lot of 40's on the road anyone...
-Justin ''

Dito : I've been stuck driving a bj60 for 6 years , lack of $ and time to get the 42 back on the road and feel the same ! Heck I might even sleep in it once it's back on the road ! lol
Also as previously mentioned : "not many seen on the road'' It's the same here in Calgary and when the woman and I take a trip into parts of Alberta and B.C. I have been disappointed to find the same including Van island last year !
Cheers
JohnMac

 

[Crescent Wrench]

I actually went the 2.5 - 3" rear with longer shackles which was what was recommended by John from Radd cruisers. I didn't want to spend more money having to lengthen my drive shafts. Was this a mistake??


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[Crescent Wrench]

John actually said it would be sitting around 4 " higher than factory. I hope it's what I am looking for


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