BJ40 Solid Front Axle 4WD questions

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Aug 15, 2019
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4
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Location
Neversink, New York
I have a 1976 Costa Rican BJ40 with a solid front axle and I wondering how exactly to get it into 4WD, given that it doesn't have locking hubs on the front. Is it always in 4wheel high? [that doesn't seem to make any sense to me, but, I clearly don't know as much as I thought I did about Landcruisers--I've had seven of them, but never one with the solid front axle].
I bought this thing sight unseen because the price was right, but I need to make sure I can get it into four wheel drive. Any help from those of you who have experience with these models would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
Not always in 4wd, but you are always spinning your front axles, diff and driveshaft. Swap the drive flanges for free-wheel hubs (Warn or AISIN/ASCO) and you can change that.

Post a pic of your t-case lever and/or dash for exact 2H-4H-4L engagement coaching... there are a few potential options for a non-US Cruiser.
 
Here's a front axle picture.

IMG_2890.webp
 
With no hubs the front axle will always turn. The transfer case shift lever should have 2H 4H N and 4L. In 2H only the rear axle gets engine power. 4H 4L will also send power to the front axle N no power to either axle
 
Not always in 4wd, but you are always spinning your front axles, diff and driveshaft.

Post a pic of your t-case lever and/or dash for exact 2H-4H-4L engagement coaching... there are a few potential options for a non-US Cruiser.
Kurt,
The dash diagram is the same as it is on every 40 I've seen--2H up top, straight down to 4H, then right to N and far right to 4L (I'll get a specific pic in the morning and post it). I'm just not sure that it is properly engaging and since I haven't had one of this variety, I am wondering if the front linkage might have been disconnected or something . . . I'm trying to sell it, but I don't want to tell someone everything works and then have it not . . .
 
to add more confusion for you
the front driveshaft is spinning in 2H but no power is being applied from the transfer case
in N both shafts driveshafts are connected but no power is being applied

unless you have free wheeling hubs and they are unlocked, do not flat tow the rig with the transfer in N
 
Kurt,
The dash diagram is the same as it is on every 40 I've seen--2H up top, straight down to 4H, then right to N and far right to 4L (I'll get a specific pic in the morning and post it). I'm just not sure that it is properly engaging and since I haven't had one of this variety, I am wondering if the front linkage might have been disconnected or something . . . I'm trying to sell it, but I don't want to tell someone everything works and then have it not . . .

you can put the rig up on jackstands at all 4 corners and see if front and rear wheels drive
or
remove rear driveshaft put transfer in 4H and see if the rig will move on its own
 
Your front axle has “drive plates” as opposed to “locking hubs” most early to mid Landcruiser were shipped to the U.S. with drive plates as well (I have a set somewhere that came off my 63’ FJ45). U.S. dealers generally installed Warns, Selctro, or Husky hubs. You can add locking hubs any time (should be fine spline but pull a drive plate to confirm). Because it has been turning the axles full time they will have more wear than a model with hubs, so at the time you change out the hubs would be a good time to go through the front axle wear components. See shifting comments and pic requests above!
 
I have a 1976 Costa Rican BJ40 with a solid front axle and I wondering how exactly to get it into 4WD, given that it doesn't have locking hubs on the front. Is it always in 4wheel high? [that doesn't seem to make any sense to me, but, I clearly don't know as much as I thought I did about Landcruisers--I've had seven of them, but never one with the solid front axle].
I bought this thing sight unseen because the price was right, but I need to make sure I can get it into four wheel drive. Any help from those of you who have experience with these models would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Gentlemen,
Thanks for the replies!

I think I have isolated the shifting issue to the final piece of the linkage in the 2H-4H half of the 4x4 shifter. It's the specific piece that is much like a ball-and-socket joint. The socket portion of the linkage had fallen off of the ball actuator that shifts the transfer case. I popped it back on, and the truck properly shifted into 4H-N-4L.

Another problem arose when I shifted it back into 2H--the socket fell off again. So, I have a follow up question: how does one insure that the socket does not fall off during this shifting process?

There does not seem to be a pin that holds the joint together (as there is on the opposite end of the linkage), but it appears that one can adjust the socket linkage to lengthen or shorten it, but only before snapping it into place on the ball. Am I interpreting this correctly? If so, should the linkage be shortened or lengthened to make sure they joint remains connected?

Thanks for the advice in advance!
 
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