BJ spacers (1 Viewer)

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Woodini

Woodini

Joined
May 5, 2022
Threads
11
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181
Location
Daytona Beach Shores, FL
Any reason to get 2” over the standard 1.5”?

Should I replace the balljoints themselves while in there?

Btw- ruining OME medium and sway away t bars.
 
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I'm running 2 inch ball joints spacers. Make sure you get the diff drop spacers as well, the bj spacers can cause cv axle binding at full droop.


I'd replace ball joints if yours have any age in them, the spacers are hard on the ball joints.

New shocks were needed as the OEM length didn't allow full travel.
 
dohcdelsol93 said:
I'm running 2 inch ball joints spacers. Make sure you get the diff drop spacers as well, the bj spacers can cause cv axle binding at full droop.


I'd replace ball joints if yours have any age in them, the spacers are hard on the ball joints.

New shocks were needed as the OEM length didn't allow full travel.
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Diff drop spacers…. Tell me more.

Should I replace both upper and lower ball joints?

I searched on this topic but found minimal.
 
Woodini said:
Diff drop spacers…. Tell me more.

Should I replace both upper and lower ball joints?

I searched on this topic but found minimal.
Click to expand...
So I’m guessing the 4crawler ifs deluxe diff drop will be the one, might as well get the sway bar drop kit as well. 👍🏿

Ordered

Edit: the ifs deluxe kit includes the sway bar drop kit! Roger was nice enough to let me know.
 
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Woodini said:
Diff drop spacers…. Tell me more.

Should I replace both upper and lower ball joints?

I searched on this topic but found minimal.
Click to expand...
Yes as the other poster mentioned it alleviates bad cv angle that can cause binding at droop that would likely eat a drive shaft quickly. The only downside is that now your front drive shaft is at a less than ideal angle. Good news is that it wasn't exactly ideal from the factory. So long as your locked in 4wd driving habits are at slow speeds this is a non issue.

Speaking of torn cv axles, while you're under there...If you replace your cv axle flange studs with 9/16 bolts and lock nuts you can change them on the trail with just simple handle tools and a jack. No major disassembly.

And I would replace the ball joints in pairs while you're in there for good measure, especially if you don't know their age/brand/any boot cracks. I am running moog, which is the only brand outside OEM I think I'd trust. There may be other good oe quality brands but I'm not familiar with them.

My bj lift turned into a new pitman arm, 4crawler upgraded idler arm, all new tie rod ends and new control arm bushings. My rig is a daily driver so it's really just dependant on what shape your rig is in and your intended use.
 
My truck is in great shape and I DD my truck as well, the off road action she sees is typically sandy powerline trails at slow speed. Tbh I don’t know how anyone could drive off-road at speed, I would think everything would just rattle apart. I will follow your advice on replacing the ball joints as well, thanks for your help!
 
dohcdelsol93 said:
Yes as the other poster mentioned it alleviates bad cv angle that can cause binding at droop that would likely eat a drive shaft quickly. The only downside is that now your front drive shaft is at a less than ideal angle. Good news is that it wasn't exactly ideal from the factory. So long as your locked in 4wd driving habits are at slow speeds this is a non issue.
Click to expand...

curious about this part. If I daily my rig and it sees winter driving conditions, meaning I can be doing 50mph on a snow covered highway in 4wd, the driveshaft angle will cause vibrations?
 
COMTB said:
curious about this part. If I daily my rig and it sees winter driving conditions, meaning I can be doing 50mph on a snow covered highway in 4wd, the driveshaft angle will cause vibrations?
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The ball joints spacers do not change the front drive shaft pinion angel. The diff drop spacers do. My transmission has been forward about 4 or 6 inches from stock mounting position so even if I went out and gave you my pinion angle measurements they would be useless in a stock application.

Doing 50 on a snow covered road this far south is a death wish, we get way more ice than snow.
 
Haha those are fair points, but cold snow has significant amounts of traction especially with the correct rubber on. I have driven in snow my entire life so I'm fairly comfortable but the same question would go for beach driving in 4hi and higher speeds than just crawling. From what it sounds like my front driveline angle won't change enough to significantly impact it even with the diff drop.
 
I didn't bother with the diff drop spacers with Roger's 1.5" BJ spacers. I used small urethane bump stops and droop stops to get just a little more wheel travel. I did replace both CV shafts while I had it all apart. Spinning them by hand at full droop I detected no binding. Maybe I got lucky and maybe the Moog replacement CV shafts allow more angularity, I dunno. Fastest that I've had it up to in 4Hi on dirt/mud/snow is about 60 mph, maybe a little less. No issues.
 
Just got a quote of $1100 for installation and alignment 😳 it’s the only reputable 4x4 shop in town (wilsons4x4.com), they’ve never done them before so it could be potentially slightly cheaper….. what do you guys think of that?
 
Woodini said:
Just got a quote of $1100 for installation and alignment 😳 it’s the only reputable 4x4 shop in town (wilsons4x4.com), they’ve never done them before so it could be potentially slightly cheaper….. what do you guys think of that?
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how many tools do you have? it's literally five fasteners(per side) to install.
alignments are typically 150-200$ these days so thats 900 labor.
 
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