bit of trouble removing the knuckle end caps

[peiserg]

Guys,

1975 fj40. Knuckle rebuild in process. I've gotten the cone washers out above and below the knuckle. The end cap (top and bottom) are barely budging. The bottom one is out maybe 3 or 4 MM, and the top one maybe 2 mm. any suggestions? A specific place to tap with my brass drift maybe?

Thanks.

 

[shawnfj40]

Its not a pretty process. Tap tap tap, you will get there eventually.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Once you get a gap, you should be able to put the drift in the gap at an angle and hit up.
And once the upper arm is off, a long drift through the knuckle should make short work of the lower cap.

 

[honk]

I guess the terms "tap" or "tapping" can be understood with a somewhat broad definition of terms. In this case tapping does not mean gently rapping upon pieces in the hope of a response, it means a solid hard blow delivered repeatedly until the desired response results.

Or as my friend and one-time mentor said when showing me the intricacies of changing king pins on a 1969 International 5 ton truck "HIT that sum'bitch kid, HIT IT!"

 

[Weber Sarge]

The old guys I learned my skills from always used - "hit it with your purse" ...
Most times those caps can be grabbed with a set of channel lock pliers , twist and pull up - they come right out . If you start beating on them too much they can get cocked a bit and jam in the bore . Do not tear up those shims under the caps , and note where they came from to keep the knuckle properly centered ...
Sarge

 

[peiserg]

Thx guys. Ill try to tap and the pliers too. I rebuilt the knuckle about 15 years ago but have no recollection of getting the centering caps out at all. So I can't recall what I did to accomplish that

 

[JAFO2014]

I just did mine recently. I didn't need to remove the studs, but I do note that if the four studs are removed you could grab those top and bottom caps and twist them to work them out. I think Toyota shows some special tool you use to push them out from the inside (with axle removed of course).

Swapping front diff and replacing bearings

 

[Aaron Womack]

I found that twisting the nuts back down on the posts a few turns and "tapping" with a bfh pops those come washers right out. Then I used a pickle fork to work the ends out of the bearings.

 

[FJ60Seth]

See post #13
Birfeild Help

 

[B y r o n]

One of mine seized and this is what I did to drive it out.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Once the axle is pulled out , either a brass drift or even the appropriate-sized turnbuckle would push the king pins right out .
Sarge

 

[peiserg]

Was able to do it with brass hammer. Lots of,pounding. The washers popped up easily with brass hammer to the studs. The end caps were a bit of a struggle. Eventually i used a screwdriver to lever up one end while pounding up on other side with hammer.


Then i reinstalled upside down. Goddamit. Took me 30 mins to remove.

 

[peiserg]

SO i've reassembled the passenger knuckle. One thin one thick shim. I'm getting 15 to 18 lbs preload. I'm planning on running 33x 1150 tires. You guys think thats reasonable? It's at 15 lbs for about 80 pct of the rotation, and briefly bumps to 18 before dropping back to 15. Thats at 65 lb ft torque on the knuckle studs.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Is that the service manual spec for the knuckle studs , doesn't sound right but it's been awhile..?
Sarge

 

[peiserg]

Pretty sure 65lbs is right. Unless someone else disagrees?

 

[chubot]

That's what I've got mine at. Although, I ordered new studs for my 76 knuckles which I believe is 11mm that I ordered from Toyota. I was hoping that they would have the hex head on the top to make it easier for torquing the studs down. I'm having a hell of a time trying the double nut method. When I go to take the top nut off it just starts backing the stud out. Anyone here have a source for the studs with the hex head or star head?

 

[Xpnsv72fj]

When you go to take the top nut off you have to put a wrench on the bottom nut to keep it from backing the stud out.

Josh

 

[mrtodds77]

I am actually having trouble putting my steering arm back on. It seems the bearing it came out of is now slid to the outside and is off center a little bit. When I try to tap it in the arm just bounces all over the place. Does anyone have any tips? Do I need to jack up the car and remove the tire pressure?

 

[DangerNoodle]

I am actually having trouble putting my steering arm back on. It seems the bearing it came out of is now slid to the outside and is off center a little bit. When I try to tap it in the arm just bounces all over the place. Does anyone have any tips? Do I need to jack up the car and remove the tire pressure?

View attachment 2852300

Where are the knuckle studs? They usually help to keep the arm aligned and straight on the bearing. It also helps to keep the knuckle centered and wiggle it back and forth a little. Have you confirmed that the bearing at least starts on the arm?

 

[mrtodds77]

Where are the knuckle studs? They usually help to keep the arm aligned and straight on the bearing. It also helps to keep the knuckle centered and wiggle it back and forth a little. Have you confirmed that the bearing at least starts on the arm?

I had to take them off to get the arm off without removing the break lines. I had them off for the picture but tried tapping the arm back down with and without the studs. The idea when I had the studs off was maybe I could get the bottom steering shaft started into the bearing and then add the studs. It’s not stable enough to do that.