Bilstein 6112 (1 Viewer)

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Looking to get the Bilstein 6112 with springs up front on my 08 LC. Currently running the Westcott designs preload lift on stock shocks and springs. Just installed an arb front bumper with winch and starting to rub again on my 34s. Was curious if I ran the Bilstein 6112’s with springs in the highest 3” lift option would I need new uca’s? Anyone have any input? Thanks in advance.
 
 
Thanks for the link however no one in there speaks of the set up being on the highest setting for the maximum lift. I know that you can run up to a 2.5” lift without uca’s but curious as I’ve read on some other forums that people have ran them at 3” lift without uca wondering if it’s similar to our land cruisers
 
I mean you don't necessarily need them.... It will clear and whatnot. But I do have some doubts you'll be able to get caster adjusted to the point where it drives nicely. Some say it will drive just fine with lower caster values. I used to be one of those people and then I decided to get an UCA. Significantly better driving experience. I'm only on the 4th perch, so ~2.2" but I could only get 2.1 degrees caster out of the stock arms. And my lower cams aren't seized either. OME uca and now I'm at 3.7 degrees. It's night and day difference. Without the ucas it gets super twitchy on center steering feel when driving down the highway and required tons of little adjustments to keep tracking straight. With the weight of your front bumper you wouldn't sit at the full 3", but I'd imagine it would still sit taller than mine.

Take that with a grain of salt though. I know more than a few on that above linked thread were supposedly able to pull caster into the proper range with the same or more lift as me.
 
I mean you don't necessarily need them.... It will clear and whatnot. But I do have some doubts you'll be able to get caster adjusted to the point where it drives nicely. Some say it will drive just fine with lower caster values. I used to be one of those people and then I decided to get an UCA. Significantly better driving experience. I'm only on the 4th perch, so ~2.2" but I could only get 2.1 degrees caster out of the stock arms. And my lower cams aren't seized either. OME uca and now I'm at 3.7 degrees. It's night and day difference. Without the ucas it gets super twitchy on center steering feel when driving down the highway and required tons of little adjustments to keep tracking straight. With the weight of your front bumper you wouldn't sit at the full 3", but I'd imagine it would still sit taller than mine.

Take that with a grain of salt though. I know more than a few on that above linked thread were supposedly able to pull caster into the proper range with the same or more lift as me.

The amount of caster necessary depends on tire size. Stock tires, or smaller overall diameter tires will generally want caster in the mid to high 3s. Once into 34 and 35s, caster can be in the lower 3s.

Caster angle is what is measured, but what it's really looking for is mechanical trail. The caster effect needs a distance of mechanical trail for stability and the self centering of steering.

You can see for the same caster angle, as the tire size grows, the mechanical trail distance increases.

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I gotcha I think I’ll try the Bilsteins at full lift and see how it aligns out. If it’s close I may run them without aftermarket UCAs for a bit and get some down the line. Or get them if the alignment is really off
 
How do these 6112 suspension kit compare to Ironman Pro foam suspension?
 
Looking to get the Bilstein 6112 with springs up front on my 08 LC. Currently running the Westcott designs preload lift on stock shocks and springs. Just installed an arb front bumper with winch and starting to rub again on my 34s. Was curious if I ran the Bilstein 6112’s with springs in the highest 3” lift option would I need new uca’s? Anyone have any input? Thanks in advance.

Where is it rubbing? It shouldn't be too hard to address?

Rubbing is kind of an independent thing to lift. On an IFS, you don't necessarily want to use lift to create clearance because off-road, regardless of lift, it will stuff tires just as far, so you may want to address the clearance thing anyways.

I would also recommend something less than 3" suspension lift. It'll create all sort of undesirable handling qualities like toe steer and weird jacking as it works outside of its optimal zone. Maybe something like 2" suspension lift combined with a 1" or 1.5" NST Spec body lift will create more clearance for tires and an all around better performing cruiser.
 
How do these 6112 suspension kit compare to Ironman Pro foam suspension?
I've had both. I should have started with the bilsteins. Ironman only brings in the firmer valving for the 200 series FCP, so regardless of spring choice they have terrible small bump compliance. If you drive rough roads they’re a terrible choice unless you’re heavilyyy loaded or prefer the ride of a buckboard wagon.

The digressive valving of the Bilstien is also not preferred for small bump compliance, but they’re substantially better than the FCPs and really at home for controlling the size of the 200 series at speed.

Build quality is also higher on the bilsteins.
 
I've had both. I should have started with the bilsteins. Ironman only brings in the firmer valving for the 200 series FCP, so regardless of spring choice they have terrible small bump compliance. If you drive rough roads they’re a terrible choice unless you’re heavilyyy loaded or prefer the ride of a buckboard wagon.

The digressive valving of the Bilstien is also not preferred for small bump compliance, but they’re substantially better than the FCPs and really at home for controlling the size of the 200 series at speed.

Build quality is also higher on the bilsteins.
I have the Ironman on my new 200 from previous owner. I previously had BP-51 on another 200(sold)which I could never really dial in and it was a pain adjusting them. My newish Ironman are as you say and the only weight I carry around besides my family, is the 24gal. LRA tank but only use it on long road trips. I do feel every little bump which is annoying, thought it was my new Cooper AT3 XLT E-load tires. I have the dang lean as well. I had it corrected back to level and now it's leaning again after a week, making me think whoever installed the rear springs didn't put them on the correct side. Hopefully that's the reason anyways.

IMG_1283.jpeg
 
1000 x better
how so? I need to convenience myself to swap them out. lol Looking for something on the more plush side. I have considered the Dobinson MMR as well but a bit overkill for my daily use
 
how so? I need to convenience myself to swap them out. lol Looking for something on the more plush side. I have considered the Dobinson MMR as well but a bit overkill for my daily use
i hate the dobinson
just rode in a 200 in one

bilstein fantastically controlled
great soak up with reservoir on corrugations off road
excellent crisp turning (for a hippo) on corners

great controlled non floaty ride on highway

——-

i have some very high handling sports cars and been racing competitively for 28 years.
 
i hate the dobinson
just rode in a 200 in one

bilstein fantastically controlled
great soak up with reservoir on corrugations off road
excellent crisp turning (for a hippo) on corners

great controlled non floaty ride on highway

——-

i have some very high handling sports cars and been racing competitively for 28 years.
Thanks for the info. What rear springs would you recommend that will absorb the bumps without bouncing over every speed bump and pothole
 
Thanks for the info. What rear springs would you recommend that will absorb the bumps without bouncing over every speed bump and pothole
i rode in a bilstein HD rear recently 2017 LC 200. It was too bouncy unloaded

standard springs I think are good enough

it will be “harsher” than factory when completely unloaded
 
i rode in a bilstein HD rear recently 2017 LC 200. It was too bouncy unloaded

standard springs I think are good enough

it will be “harsher” than factory when completely unloaded
I currently have Ironman medium rear springs. Considered using Icon progressive springs or other medium duty spring
 
I have the Ironman on my new 200 from previous owner. I previously had BP-51 on another 200(sold)which I could never really dial in and it was a pain adjusting them. My newish Ironman are as you say and the only weight I carry around besides my family, is the 24gal. LRA tank but only use it on long road trips. I do feel every little bump which is annoying, thought it was my new Cooper AT3 XLT E-load tires. I have the dang lean as well. I had it corrected back to level and now it's leaning again after a week, making me think whoever installed the rear springs didn't put them on the correct side. Hopefully that's the reason anyways.

View attachment 3721516
Ironman rear springs were same height left and right. They just sagged unevenly for me.

Bilstien springs were also same height left and right, but they settled evenly.
 
Ironman rear springs were same height left and right. They just sagged unevenly for me.

Bilstien springs were also same height left and right, but they settled evenly.
Interesting. I thought the springs for the Land Cruiser were an inch in length different to keep it level. Did yours lean as bad as mine, seen in pic above?
 
Interesting. I thought the springs for the Land Cruiser were an inch in length different to keep it level. Did yours lean as bad as mine, seen in pic above?
I guess I should correct myself. Ironman does list different free heights for rear coils. When I measured my pair new their free heights were within about 3/16in. I installed according to their labels with the “taller” spring on the gas tank side. When I removed them I had a more noticable difference in free height from sagging at different rates. It developed about a 3/4in difference.

My Bilstien coils went in at the same free height left and right, and come out at the same height. Both springs took a set at the same free height after about 5000 miles and I had zero lean. I would definitely recommend the Bilstein coil springs if you’re considering the 6112/5160 combo.

OME and OEM springs have more noticeable free heights for left and right
 
I guess I should correct myself. Ironman does list different free heights for rear coils. When I measured my pair new their free heights were within about 3/16in. I installed according to their labels with the “taller” spring on the gas tank side. When I removed them I had a more noticable difference in free height from sagging at different rates. It developed about a 3/4in difference.

My Bilstien coils went in at the same free height left and right, and come out at the same height. Both springs took a set at the same free height after about 5000 miles and I had zero lean. I would definitely recommend the Bilstein coil springs if you’re considering the 6112/5160 combo.

OME and OEM springs have more noticeable free heights for left and right
I took my cruiser to have it balanced and then the lean redeveloped right back to a full 1 3/8” lean on my drivers side after a week and half. Very frustrating. If the taller spring on mine is on the passenger side, then I have no idea why mine is already leaning back to its original lean I had an issue you with. I hope I don’t have a leak in the system. Truck only has 13k miles on it.
 
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