How about bleeding the brakes with the engine running?
Better Brakes bleeding, Actuate the ABS
- Thread starter rhyary
- Start date
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I see I posted up in the beginning of this thread. Cycling abs module made the brakes a bit better but they still sucked!! I ended up so frustrated with poor braking I just tossed the abs and Lsvp. Instantly had great brakes. This was the only thing that actually gave me real brakes after 3 yrs of trying everything.
engine running or not running has no effect on brake bleeding.
Sure it does, while bleeding with the engine off you are able to get a nice firm pedal. But as soon as you start the engine the abs is energized and the squishy pedal feel returns.
This isn't the ABS, it's the brake booster. The ABS doesn't do anything until it's activated by slipping. The firm pedal doesn't mean your brakes are working any better in that case, just that they have no assist.
I see.
I went through this issue when I replaced my calipers and lines and there were two main culprits. The first was air in the lines. You've got to bleed like hell to get it all. LSPV is the main culprit. The ABS to a lesser extent. I activated the ABS artificially with the battery and some jumpers, and got a little air. I'd probably just drive it to a dirt road and activate ABS if I had to do it again.
The big issue I had was the LSPV. I replaced mine along with the calipers and didn't get it set right at first. It felt like it was set such that the rear brakes were hardly engaged until the fronts were very engaged. I think this causes a spongy feel because the rear brakes aren't really making contact until well into the pedal travel. I adjusted it until the pedal felt more normal. Ideally you'd use gauges at the front and rear to set it exactly. It's still has a long travel for my taste, but it brakes great. I think that's just the way 80's are to some extent. I've gotten used to it.
The big issue I had was the LSPV. I replaced mine along with the calipers and didn't get it set right at first. It felt like it was set such that the rear brakes were hardly engaged until the fronts were very engaged. I think this causes a spongy feel because the rear brakes aren't really making contact until well into the pedal travel. I adjusted it until the pedal felt more normal. Ideally you'd use gauges at the front and rear to set it exactly. It's still has a long travel for my taste, but it brakes great. I think that's just the way 80's are to some extent. I've gotten used to it.
I recently bled all my lines because I thought the pedal felt squishy. I installed earls solo bleeders on all 4 corners. I could not find the right size for the lspv so I used a "speed bleeder" brand for that one. I definitely got all the air out from the lines. Maybe not from the abs unit since the brakes still feel a little squishy.
I recently bled all my lines because I thought the pedal felt squishy. I installed earls solo bleeders on all 4 corners. I could not find the right size for the lspv so I used a "speed bleeder" brand for that one. I definitely got all the air out from the lines. Maybe not from the abs unit since the brakes still feel a little squishy.
Do you remember the part number on these?
This may be an option, I have used it many times (never on LC though) when working on some "race cars". The Phoenix system reverse flushes from the caliper up, and in many cars the ABS system has one way check valves that prevent fluid flow through when doing a reservoir power bleed (I use Motive bleeders). But when flowing in the different direction (backwards), the flow does go through the ABS system as there is no restriction. And sometimes, for me, this was the only way to remove the last bubbles. I would switch between blue and yellow fluid, it was an easy way to visually validate system flushed.
Phoenix Systems | Reverse Brake Bleeder
Phoenix Systems | Reverse Brake Bleeder
Only way I got rid of my squishy pedal was to delete the abs. Instantly the brakes worked great.
this is just a bad idea all around, please don't do this........
I am guessing most people with issues have an older system that is malfunctioning. From my experience you should be able to bleed the system just fine using the standard method. If my abs system ever goes south I will simply bypass it as replacing the system is cost prohibitive. FWIW I have never had issues with my system, has worked well and once saved a loose dog on a road in big bear from being squashed, lol.
Bringing back an older thread -
Changed out my rear calipers and have bled four times pushing through over a litre of fluid but still have a good amount of air in the system as the brakes are so soft its unsafe. I can't drive to activate the ABS because the PO never reinstalled the tone rings with the new birfs. Can anyone point me to how to jump the ABS Solenoid? (I can't do a delete as we are moving and the truck will have to go through an inspection in a couple of months)
Changed out my rear calipers and have bled four times pushing through over a litre of fluid but still have a good amount of air in the system as the brakes are so soft its unsafe. I can't drive to activate the ABS because the PO never reinstalled the tone rings with the new birfs. Can anyone point me to how to jump the ABS Solenoid? (I can't do a delete as we are moving and the truck will have to go through an inspection in a couple of months)
Is there a way to trigger ABS actuator to combat spongy breakes?
Truck info: 1994 LC with ABS So after some brake work (Caliper replacement with pads) I had spongy brakes. Wasted good amount of brake fluid trying to bleed them. I suspected that Air was trapped in ABS actuator but short of buying the SST tool or driving on Ice I did not see a way to trigger...
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