Better anti wrap ideas? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter troyintahoe
- Start date
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LOL! Better than axle wrap - And, I haven't gotten hung up yet and I haven't broken any parts.
Take a look at picture 3 of my last post and picture one of this post and you will see a 4"x4"x3/16" square tube in place of the rear-middle frame crossmember and the bracing flanges, but no, I'm never twisting that part of the frame apart, ever. Not even if I get t-boned by a Mack truck.
The front was trickier. Since there ws no crossmember at the placement of the spring hangers, I re-fabricated the the transmission crossmember (Need to redo it again so it doesn't hang down, but I was in a hurry) out of two parallel pieces of 2"x2"x1/4" square tube. It is attachet to four more pieces of 2"x2"x1/4" square tube welded on the inside and the outside of the frame rails and bolted with 4 grade 8 bolts on each side of the frame. This will keep the frame rail from flexing on its axis. As well, that is where the frame rail starts to curve and this also inhibits the frame rail from flexing on its axis.
I think I'm safe, and, I've had no problems so far.
Reviving this thread.
I am just gonna say, I will keep my SOA and my trac bar all day long. Some of the things I have seen posted in this thread just don't look like they would stand the abuse I give my wagon at all.
I am just gonna say, I will keep my SOA and my trac bar all day long. Some of the things I have seen posted in this thread just don't look like they would stand the abuse I give my wagon at all.
Holy thread revival.
I know you've changed your rear axle since post #3 in this thread, but is the bar design the same?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=3162371&postcount=3
Similar but not exactly the same.
The much bigger bushings have held up 100% better but I still managed to rip the lower bushing after only a couple of easy trips, the plus side is they didn't oval the tubes and bend the bolts into a "W" pattern top and bottom at the axle. But it did do its job up till I pulled it out and it prevented any pinion or joint failures out back. The front of the new one has a 3/4 heim from ruff stuff http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34SET.html and the bushings at the axle end are 2"x.25 wall dom bushings from Dan as well http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/BUSHDOM.html. Looking back I would have just run 2 more 3/4 heims at the axle end to fix the ripped busing problem. But it has been ripped for over a year and it still stops it enough that with my centered pinion axle and offset output transfer case that I haven't :knock on wood: ever had a rear u-joint or pinion problem other than an oil dribble.
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Oops, forgot the pics.
As you can see, we got it as parallel to the drive shaft as possible and ran full length bars both top and bottom. It still rides on factory FJ60 rear springs. My spring hangers for the rear are getting trashed from rocks tho so I will need to probably swap in some beefy mounts from ruff stuff when I re-work my rear shackle angle and length for a little more flex.
Took these just a few minutes ago.
This is also with it on the 42" Iroks now as well, the pic referenced the truck was on 38.5 TSL SX's and stock cruiser rear axle and not the 14 bolt pictured for anyone who may come across this and isn't sure.
As you can see, we got it as parallel to the drive shaft as possible and ran full length bars both top and bottom. It still rides on factory FJ60 rear springs. My spring hangers for the rear are getting trashed from rocks tho so I will need to probably swap in some beefy mounts from ruff stuff when I re-work my rear shackle angle and length for a little more flex.
Took these just a few minutes ago.
This is also with it on the 42" Iroks now as well, the pic referenced the truck was on 38.5 TSL SX's and stock cruiser rear axle and not the 14 bolt pictured for anyone who may come across this and isn't sure.
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