Best Type of Rock Sliders? (my first thread) (1 Viewer)

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So I picked up a GX470 back in January, through some 33's on it, and waited for the trails around me to open. They finally did last weekend and the GX performed phenomenally. I did, however, give one of my one of my running boards a little love tap on a big rock as I was setting the passenger side from wheel down into water hole. It seems to that the first bit of armor I should buy should be rock sliders. As far as I can tell when it comes to sliders there are two types; closed box types (like SLEE or Victory 4x4), or open tube type (like Coastal Offroad and almost everyone else).
My question is this: Is there a real functional difference between these two types of sliders? Will I be limited by the closed type because there is almost no place to hook in a high lift jack? Are open tube types stronger and will stand up to abuse better? Is the only difference aesthetic?

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any recommendations on other brands I should be looking at.
 
Strengthwise I would be more concerned with the attachment method than the open/ vs closed construction. I think the attachment of a bolt on slider is more likely to fail before the slider itself. The strongest attachment would be welded with plates and gussets to spread the load on the frame. The importance of this will also vary depending on how you wheel and your priorities for the design (strength, ease of install, weight, usefullness as a step, aesthetics, cost).

I think the reason you see more tubular sliders is due to relative ease of fabrication. A tubing bender is a common item for a 4x4 fab company. On the other hand, a box style slider requires a pretty substantial press brake (assuming it isn’t simple rectangle that could be cut from tube steel which the ones you listed are not). Most shops won’t have a press brake this size and likely this work gets subcontracted out. This style slider seems typically more expensive.

the closed step style sliders are open on the backside, so arguably a round or square tube is stronger for localized crushing. I guess this open back could also accumulate mud, but the same could be said for open style sliders.
 
Wow, thank you so much for breaking it down like that. You have certainly given me more perspective to make my decision.
 
I recently purchased a set of these, for $717 shipped from Summit Racing:
2010-2020 APEX Toyota 4Runner Rock Sliders - https://allprooffroad.com/shop-by-vehicle/2010-2020-apex-toyota-4runner-rock-sliders.html

Yes, they are technically for a 5th gen T4R, not a GX470. However, I happened to find this blog post, which indicates they can be installed with a whopping 11 bolts per side by drilling some holes in the GX frame and adding some rivnuts. They weigh around 50 lbs per side, have 4 legs, and large attachment plates. I've given them a few coats of satin black from a rattle can and will be finishing off the tops with truck bed liner (as a non-slip on the top only). I'll post some pictures once they are installed. Having the flat top plate was important for me to reduce trips/slips with my family getting in the GX, as well as myself when I'm standing on the sliders to access cargo on the roof.

IMO, bolt-on siders are preferable to weld-on in most instances to the consistency/reliability of a bolt vs. a weld. Welds will always be more inconsistent than a bolt due to the effects of welder skill/weld settings, surface preparation, etc., unless you have a skilled welder A bolt is pretty much a bolt, and for rivnuts in particular, with 11 per side, you'd have a combined ultimate capacity of 21,163 lbs per slider in shear and 26,620 lbs in tensile strength - basically a factor of safety of 4 relative to the weight of a GX (in theory, you could hoist the GX in the air from one of the sliders, and the rivnuts would not fail). Another advantage of bolt-on sliders is that they can be removed if they were to ever get significantly damaged or if you wanted to sell them and/or take the truck back to stock. Removing weld-ons would require grinding them off and would leave some nasty scars on the frame.
 
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So I picked up a GX470 back in January, through some 33's on it, and waited for the trails around me to open. They finally did last weekend and the GX performed phenomenally. I did, however, give one of my one of my running boards a little love tap on a big rock as I was setting the passenger side from wheel down into water hole. It seems to that the first bit of armor I should buy should be rock sliders. As far as I can tell when it comes to sliders there are two types; closed box types (like SLEE or Victory 4x4), or open tube type (like Coastal Offroad and almost everyone else).
My question is this: Is there a real functional difference between these two types of sliders? Will I be limited by the closed type because there is almost no place to hook in a high lift jack? Are open tube types stronger and will stand up to abuse better? Is the only difference aesthetic?

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any recommendations on other brands I should be looking at.
Ahh another "local" GX owner... welcome to the family... I am just outside of Baltimore

What trail were you riding?
 
Oh wow nice to meet you.
I was on a trail in Virginia called Peters Mill Run. The is actually a pretty nice experience starting from parking lot off a paved road running 6 or so miles north ending a fire road. There is a decent campsite at north end, and both the camp site and parking lot have bathrooms. The trail is pretty tame, mostly rocks and sand, but I have been told it can get very muddy. There are also a lot of side attractions at various clearings, like mud holes, berms, and short technical loops, but I didn't mess with any of that because I was alone.
There is another trail to the south of the parking lot called Taskers Gap that runs south for like four miles I think, but it dead ends and you have to run it back to the parking lot. Here is a link to the parking lot: Peters Mill Run/Taskers Gap OHV System Parking Area - https://goo.gl/maps/yEYA6EkjF42KeMMz5. To runs the trails your supposed to stop a gas station in and buy a $5 pass form the rangers, but I doubt most people do that.

I plan on going back for Taskers Gap whenever I get my skid plates from Victory, but who knows when that will be. What good trails do you know in the area?
 
Oh wow nice to meet you.
I was on a trail in Virginia called Peters Mill Run. The is actually a pretty nice experience starting from parking lot off a paved road running 6 or so miles north ending a fire road. There is a decent campsite at north end, and both the camp site and parking lot have bathrooms. The trail is pretty tame, mostly rocks and sand, but I have been told it can get very muddy. There are also a lot of side attractions at various clearings, like mud holes, berms, and short technical loops, but I didn't mess with any of that because I was alone.
There is another trail to the south of the parking lot called Taskers Gap that runs south for like four miles I think, but it dead ends and you have to run it back to the parking lot. Here is a link to the parking lot: Peters Mill Run/Taskers Gap OHV System Parking Area - https://goo.gl/maps/yEYA6EkjF42KeMMz5. To runs the trails your supposed to stop a gas station in and buy a $5 pass form the rangers, but I doubt most people do that.

I plan on going back for Taskers Gap whenever I get my skid plates from Victory, but who knows when that will be. What good trails do you know in the area?
Following this thread because I am also looking into all the slider options out there, but is this trail something a stock GX could navigate? I have AT tires but no lift and stock body work. I've been looking for these kinds of trails in VA to have a more interesting car camping experience without needing another 5 grand in suspension and skid plates to not get stuck or break my Lexus.
 
I just did metaltech OPOR sliders. I like the design, aesthetic, and quality of construction. All the welds are nice, pretty simple but effective design. The powdercoating actually has some texture to it and they were relatively easy to install. Also, they're probably in stock right now, which some companies have some long lead times.
 
I have Budbuilt sliders on my truck and they're extremely beefy. Fully bolt on and a plate the length of the frame. Also you should join this club! We need more GX members on trail rides and at events.

 
I recently purchased a set of these, for $717 shipped from Summit Racing:
2010-2020 APEX Toyota 4Runner Rock Sliders - https://allprooffroad.com/shop-by-vehicle/2010-2020-apex-toyota-4runner-rock-sliders.html

Yes, they are technically for a 5th gen T4R, not a GX470. However, I happened to find this blog post, which indicates they can be installed with a whopping 11 bolts per side by drilling some holes in the GX frame and adding some rivnuts. They weigh around 50 lbs per side, have 4 legs, and large attachment plates. I've given them a few coats of satin black from a rattle can and will be finishing off the tops with truck bed liner (as a non-slip on the top only). I'll post some pictures once they are installed. Having the flat top plate was important for me to reduce trips/slips with my family getting in the GX, as well as myself when I'm standing on the sliders to access cargo on the roof.

IMO, bolt-on siders are preferable to weld-on in most instances to the consistency/reliability of a bolt vs. a weld. Welds will always be more inconsistent than a bolt due to the effects of welder skill/weld settings, surface preparation, etc., unless you have a skilled welder A bolt is pretty much a bolt, and for rivnuts in particular, with 11 per side, you'd have a combined ultimate capacity of 21,163 lbs per slider in shear and 26,620 lbs in tensile strength - basically a factor of safety of 4 relative to the weight of a GX (in theory, you could hoist the GX in the air from one of the sliders, and the rivnuts would not fail). Another advantage of bolt-on sliders is that they can be removed if they were to ever get significantly damaged or if you wanted to sell them and/or take the truck back to stock. Removing weld-ons would require grinding them off and would leave some nasty scars on the frame.
I'm glad you did the math! My inner engineer was preparing to work this out...you're right, though, (good) bolts are REALLY strong! Plus, they're reversible & pretty hard to mess up, whereas welding...that's a different story!
 
I'm glad you did the math! My inner engineer was preparing to work this out...you're right, though, (good) bolts are REALLY strong! Plus, they're reversible & pretty hard to mess up, whereas welding...that's a different story!
Put them on this weekend, see my build thread. They feel super-solid, fit great, and look great. Ended up with 12+ grade 10.9 bolts on both sides.
 
Following this thread because I am also looking into all the slider options out there, but is this trail something a stock GX could navigate? I have AT tires but no lift and stock body work. I've been looking for these kinds of trails in VA to have a more interesting car camping experience without needing another 5 grand in suspension and skid plates to not get stuck or break my Lexus.
That exactly how mine was set up when I did the trail. All stock, just 33 inch BFG's. I had no problems, despite taking the worst line over every obstacle trying to get that perfect flex picture. 😁 There was also plenty of traffic on the trail on a Sunday afternoon, so if you did run into trouble I'm sure someone would stop and help.

I have Budbuilt sliders on my truck and they're extremely beefy. Fully bolt on and a plate the length of the frame. Also you should join this club! We need more GX members on trail rides and at events.

As I was writing my post this morning I was wondering if mud had a group like this. Will defiantly keep my eye here for future trail rides.
 
I have Budbuilt sliders on my truck and they're extremely beefy. Fully bolt on and a plate the length of the frame. Also you should join this club! We need more GX members on trail rides and at events.

I agree @captainva we need more GXs in the club and events! @Snail282 check out our club spot here on Mud and as the covid crap opens up more and more we hope to see you at events and rides.
I am a new member myself ( joind last year at the Fall Crawl ) and everyone has been pretty cool...
 
Bolt-on seems to be preferred by the Jeep and overland bunch. Most everyone else does weld on. It's stronger with less failure points. Not an issue glamping and driving fire roads for the gram.
 
A 72 year old neighbor who has been a welder for much of his adult life claims that welding onto the frame weakens it. So, he does not recommend weld on sliders.
 
I'm not really sure a drilled hole (filled with a grade 10.9 bolt that is probably higher-strength than the frame steel) or a properly-welded rock slider really weakens the frame. Both attachment methods involve attaching a steel plate to the exterior of the frame (3/8" thick for my Apex sliders), which undoubtedly strengthens the frame significantly relative to OEM conditions. The issues I would see with welding is if the welds are not done very well and heat up/warp too much of the frame, or burn some holes in it. These problems would go away with a good welder. However, the entire OEM frame is welded at the top and bottom, so it seems unlikely that the act of welding itself would adversely affect the frame.

For bolting, the sliders I installed used the same holes that the OEM 150 series frame has. I'm unsure if there are any significant difference in the metal type, thickness, or overall design between the 120 and 150 series frames, but they are presumably similar. If someone has this information, please share it.

In theory, if someone drilled a bunch of holes in the frame for sliders and then removed them, a small amount of steel has been removed from the frame without the addition of the 3/8" thick slider plate, and the frame would be slightly weaker. Likewise, if welded sliders are cut off, the frame would be scared and undoubtedly weaker than before (and probably quite a bit weaker than the drilled frame).

Ultimately, I chose bolt on as 1) I'm not the best welder and 2) avoiding damage to the frame that would occur if the sliders were ever removed in the future.
 
I don't believe White knuckle sliders require drilling holes.

Honestly I've never seen a slider fail on a trail so I doubt it really matters. A weak rusted out frame is going to fail regardless of slider mounting choice. Bolt on is super convenient so I get the appeal. I just prefer to make my own sliders and weld them on myself cause I have the power to do so.
 

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