BEST PRACTICE: Removing the front/rear solid axle housing completely off the FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Mar 31, 2012
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Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
I would encourage you to go ahead and flush out all old brake fluid and replace your soft brake lines. Also replace the stock diff vent lines with ones that are located higher. I’m interested in your choice of John Deere black paint. I used an Industrial Krylon that has an excellent finish after fully stripping the axle housing to metal. As I cleaned and assembled, I learned that the Krylon didn’t hold up to brake fluid or brake clean spray. I swapped over to a grill paint for those areas affected but it’s not a texture match. I’d like to hear how the HD paint holds up to these elements.

thanks @geologic so I really would love to replace the brake lines, fluid and overhaul the brake system but I made a commitment to myself to complete this axle work first before any other project. I have a full blown 2.5 OME lift setup, HD tie rod end (TRE) kit from 555 & Whiteline sway bar for front and rear ready to go upon the re-install. Keeping on budget and performing measurable results come first. To give an idea, the grocery list for that is the oem extended brake lines (or slee) DBA rotors, pads and brake shoes in the rear which is around a $1,000 and I have $4,000 spent between tools and new parts. I also have $1,000 in new rubber to overhaul the entire cooling system. I‘ll be updating my build thread when I’m all and done.

coming back to the topic of paint, @BILT4ME mentioned first in one of my earlier posts for feedback on paint. He mentioned John Deere and after some research on that and other products, this is the best choice for me. It’s extremely tough And doesn’t break the bank, goes on easy and will serve my needs. The rep at John Deere said I don’t need to prime as that is for bare metal but I bought it anyways. The penetration oil is great, better than deep creep but that is my $0.02


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oh and I also picked this up for my front actuator (front actuator guard) when I bought my TRE kit from Marlin Crawler. I’ll get one from slee for the rear actuator when my pockets heal. Maybe consider it @geologic to protect that shiny new front actuator.

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sincre you pulled your drive shafts out instead of supporting them and keeping then bolted to the t-case are you going to have them sent out for neew u-joints and balancing or just pulled them fo r working clearnace
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
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Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
Thanks, I realized this a little too late 😞 and I’m working to correct it. Also, realized I need to have at a minimum 19-21 inches to remove the springs lol 😂 it’s all good
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Joined
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Messages
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Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
923
Location
Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
Thanks @Broski for reaching out. So there are some issues I plan to rectify and will update shortly. Safety is paramount so I won’t be doing anything until I can get 4 ratchet straps to safely secure the axle before any attempt on the springs are made
 

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