Best plan for full restoration?

[woytovich]

I'm getting ready to jump into the deep end with my 45LV resto/rebuild/modification. The plan includes:
Engine swap (All Toyota)
Transmission/transfer swap (All Toyota)
Frame clean up and paint (galvanize?)
Axles swap (to newer FJ40 axles)
Exterior & interior blast, metal work & paint

My question is really what order to do the major work... body work, paint, frame work, engine work.

Should I leave the body and frame while I get the drivetrain in and running then pull it out to do the frame & body? Seems like a good plan so that i don't risk messing up the paint plus I'll have done any sheetmetal and frame welding/cutting work that might be needed to get the thing running...

...or some other order...?

Thoughts?

mark

 

[CycloSteve]

Mark, your plan is essentially how my build has progressed. Remove what you will not be using, check the frame is straight (mine was not), get the truck drive-able/tested with the motor/trans/axles/brakes, fix the wiring, etc. then last of all finish up with the paint. Every build has the unknowns once you dive-in, and best to get those sorted before having pretty-paint to worry about screwing up. By the time my build is done, the motor/trans/t-case will be in and out a number of times, but only painted once.

Steve

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I started with lift/axles, (which included all brakes, Power steering box etc) then painted the frame.. RE- test fit body onto frame / drivetrain / steering column / booster clearance / firewall swap.. Bodywork is honestly the last thing for me.. I didn't/don't want to drill any holes in a repainted body..
Found it easiest to work on a lifted truck and needed the body on to fit the booster /shifter / crossmembers around the engine..
I'd do rolling chassis first with drivetrain installed.. My guess.. is you'll be doing some fuel injection wiring, high pressure lines and possibly AC.. wiring and test fitting stuff was a higher priority than the paint.. I will be disassembling everything once again after the test fire/ drive around the block then comes the paint..

so.. Drop that engine in while it's together.. test fit everything, then disassemble.. your access to stuff is more advanced than most of us anyway..

 

[woytovich]

What did you mean:
"your access to stuff is more advanced than most of us anyway."

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

you've been in this hobby a while.. nothing ill meant there.. only a compliment.. You should have it all down.. Good club, access to parts and help.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

and i think i got you confused with Gumby for a sec also.. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing.

 

[woytovich]

It is a good thing.... given HIS access to a seriously outfitted shop and his mad skillz (as the kids like to say)

 

[Gumby]

The kids think I have mad skillz anyway. Their experience is pretty well limited to Dallas Car Sharks and the like.

Body off frame. Body on Rotisserie. Do all the suspension and engine work while doing the sheet metal work. Paint the underside of the body while it's on the rotisserie. Put the body on the hoist or on a cart so you can pick it up with the hoist when that's done so you can test fit the drivetrain to body clearance. Finish up the plumbing and wiring on the chassis. Paint the firewall. Put the body on. Fit the interior if it's custom or you replaced floors. Take it back apart. Put the doors and fenders on to line up the body line and mask it, then take them back off. mask the chassis and paint the interior and jams. paint the inside of the fenders and grill and hood and the areas where they come together. Put the body panels all on and paint the whole thing so everything lines up and matches. Put it together.

Drive the wee out of it or be tired of it and sell it.

I think that's more or less what bickroseau and I did, him way better than me.

and we both chose the latter of the last step.

 

[woytovich]

Unfortunately no place for a rotisserie or access to a lift!