Best method for kill switch on a 200 series TLC? (2 Viewers)

[Lester did that]

It's probably true that most car thefts are because of the stuff listed, but not all, and I'm not taking my chances and assuming that "it'll be someone else, not me". If you guys wanna take a chance that your $20-$100k Cruiser will be stolen with a super simple method and shipped overseas, go right ahead.....not me. A $5 switch and an hour of time wiring is well worth it for peace of mind alone....possibly far more.

I worked with a guy from the Ukraine. He showed me a picture. It was about 20 exotic vehicles all lined up in a big semi-circle. 2 Land Cruisers... All of the vehicles had NY, NJ or CT plates. It was mafia laughing. It had a GPS tag on the photo in Ukraine. With the stolen vehicles plates. Almost like haha come and get it back. They are professionals that know all the logistics to get it from here over there as a registered stolen vehicle?! They are so professional they will show up with a flatbed when they find their mark. They wear uniforms and drive a legit looking tow trucks. They will have that thing open in 5 seconds with out breaking a window, 7 seconds and the battery is disconnected and while all that is going on two other gentleman are scanning the vehicle for LowJack or other tracking devices. 5 minutes later the thing is on the flatbed and covered in an aluminum tarp on the way to a location where it will be packed for transport. And Demitri already has a 2 fresh new FOBs programed waiting. So if your worried about mafia car thieves stealing your LC the kill switch won't work. They will find and chuckle. Silly American.

That being said I personally wouldn't lose sleep over it. You'll probably win the lottery before your LC is stolen even if modded. Car thieves steal common cars that can be stripped down and parted out. Like a Honda Accord. If the Russian mafia wants your car just give them the FOB. Make the insurance claim. They're going to take it regardless of your anti theft prevention. If you believe they are coming for your LC the best thing to do would be call your insurance company and set the value and terms of your LC. Your rates will skyrocket but even if your in an accident and it burns you'll get the full amount. Lloyds of London will insure anything?

 

[Lester did that]

Neither here nor there, but in my recent shopping journey for my 2019 LC200...I was surprised to hear of a few dealers telling me the they had declined offers for the truck (typically a 2021) from overseas clients. It seems Eastern European from the tone of the GMs. I didn’t realize there was such a demand there...

100%

 

[ekolpack]

I worked with a guy from the Ukraine. He showed me a picture. It was about 20 exotic vehicles all lined up in a big semi-circle. 2 Land Cruisers... All of the vehicles had NY, NJ or CT plates. It was mafia laughing. It had a GPS tag on the photo in Ukraine. With the stolen vehicles plates. Almost like haha come and get it back. They are professionals that know all the logistics to get it from here over there as a registered stolen vehicle?! They are so professional they will show up with a flatbed when they find their mark. They wear uniforms and drive a legit looking tow trucks. They will have that thing open in 5 seconds with out breaking a window, 7 seconds and the battery is disconnected and while all that is going on two other gentleman are scanning the vehicle for LowJack or other tracking devices. 5 minutes later the thing is on the flatbed and covered in an aluminum tarp on the way to a location where it will be packed for transport. And Demitri already has a 2 fresh new FOBs programed waiting. So if your worried about mafia car thieves stealing your LC the kill switch won't work. They will find and chuckle. Silly American.

That being said I personally wouldn't lose sleep over it. You'll probably win the lottery before your LC is stolen even if modded. Car thieves steal common cars that can be stripped down and parted out. Like a Honda Accord. If the Russian mafia wants your car just give them the FOB. Make the insurance claim. They're going to take it regardless of your anti theft prevention. If you believe they are coming for your LC the best thing to do would be call your insurance company and set the value and terms of your LC. Your rates will skyrocket but even if your in an accident and it burns you'll get the full amount. Lloyds of London will insure anything?

Well okay, if a team of international superstar car thieves with aluminum tarps, a flatbed truck, towing equipment and the ability to load up my car and be gone faster than I can walk outside with Mr. 9mm REALLY wants to get my truck, then yeah, I guess I'm SOL. But the above kill switch method, combined with a decent 2-way car alarm with vibration/tilt sensors and a diligent owner with appropriate physical deterrent mechanisms will thwart 99..9% of crackheads, car thieves and even professional theft rings. Just because Oceans 11 type heists exist doesn't mean casinos shouldn't take every reasonable measure to protect their loot. Likewise, just because elite, professionally trained international teams of car thieves exist, doesn't mean I shouldn't take every reasonable measure to protect my Cruiser. We're not talking about extreme, outlandish measures here....it's a $5 kill switch and a decent security system to protect a VERY expensive vehicle that is literally broadcasting it's full access keycode to anyone within earshot 24/7/365. I really don't get how this is so controversial.

Again, if you've got good insurance and don't mind possibly having your vehicle stolen and going through claims and rebuilding your rig and all that, by all means, your stock radio key system and nothing else should be perfectly fine. If you want a bit more security, the methods described in this post are all wise considerations.

 

[unclemat]

Interesting thread, but without a (happy) ending. What did become of your kill switch?

 

[slowtraveladv]

I know this is old but any follow up? Did it work? I’m wanting to add a switch before setting off to Mexico and Central America instead of dishing out for a Ravelco.

 

[efred]

I believe best case would be to remove pin 22 from the 2B connector on the junction block that is the grayed out block on the first diagram. Wire in the switch there. I like the idea of also locking out the shift interlock and the split is on the backside of that junction and would be awkward to access. Locking the shifter in Park would be the benefit. It would take quite the motivated individual to get through all of that and a full time 4WD is a pain to tow in park without making a racket.

Obviously if someone wants to do some Oceans 11 style heist they will get your ride but it will slow/ stop all but the most motivated bad guy.

We never heard if @ekolpack ever implemented this, but I decided to do so. Thanks to @LXRuth for this clever-seeming idea.

I managed to locate pin 22 of the 2B connector where it plugs into the main body ECU (or maybe into some box that contains it - I'm not clear on that. I pulled the panel from the dash and was just able to find room to splice into the wire at pin 22 - it was a red one (24 and 19 aren't connected, the other ones were blue or green I think). I tested starting the truck with the wire connected and not connected, and everything seemed to work just as expected.

For now I just have the other ends of my splice twisted together, but my plan is to eventually get hold of one of the OEM dashboard buttons such as the VSC OFF switch and put it in one of the unused button locations on the dash. Then I'll just need to press that AND the brake when I hit the start button. I don't imagine it will matter if it stays unconnected while driving.

I do plan to also add a toggle switch buried somewhere that permanently connects the splice, for when I take it somewhere for service, etc.

 

[ekolpack]

We never heard if @ekolpack ever implemented this, but I decided to do so. Thanks to @LXRuth for this clever-seeming idea.

I managed to locate pin 22 of the 2B connector where it plugs into the main body ECU (or maybe into some box that contains it - I'm not clear on that. I pulled the panel from the dash and was just able to find room to splice into the wire at pin 22 - it was a red one (24 and 19 aren't connected, the other ones were blue or green I think). I tested starting the truck with the wire connected and not connected, and everything seemed to work just as expected.

View attachment 3828349

For now I just have the other ends of my splice twisted together, but my plan is to eventually get hold of one of the OEM dashboard buttons such as the VSC OFF switch and put it in one of the unused button locations on the dash. Then I'll just need to press that AND the brake when I hit the start button. I don't imagine it will matter if it stays unconnected while driving.

I do plan to also add a toggle switch buried somewhere that permanently connects the splice, for when I take it somewhere for service, etc.

Thanks for this! Super helpful! And great idea on the dash buttons. You could even make it so that two+ need to be depressed by running them in series. Maybe you could just tape the buttons down when you take it in for service? Adding another switch somewhere would almost defeat the point of disguising the kill switch so well. But I guess you could hide the over-ride switch too.

Another idea, I'm installing one of these remote control relay switch panel things in my LC

AC Series 8/12 Gang RGB Switch Panel with APP&Remote Control, Toggle/ Momentary/ Pulsed Mode Supported

Off Road Lights switch panel for truck: chevy colorado, silverado, jeep, jeep jk, jeep tj, dodge ram truck, ford f150 f250, gmc sierra, marine, boat.

auxbeam.com

For anyone with one of these or something similar, you could wire the kill switch up to one, or a combination of switches on this. You might even be able to program it so that these switches are always engaged when you take it in for service. I'd feel a little less confident in this though, given that a cheap panel controlling a bank of relays is now between me and my ignition sequence. I think the basic dashboard switch idea is better overall, just a thought.

 

[unclemat]

I have been thinking about a kill switch, too. My idea for the override is to use an unused fuse slot in the OEM fusebox (if there is a free spot) or in a auxiliary fuse box (I will have one in cabin for aux battery circuits). Just plug in a fuse if you need to get car serviced. Would be also nice as an emergency override should the momentary kill switch fail.

 

[ekolpack]

I have been thinking about a kill switch, too. My idea for the override is to use an unused fuse slot in the OEM fusebox (if there is a free spot) or in a auxiliary fuse box (I will have one in cabin for aux battery circuits). Just plug in a fuse if you need to get car serviced. Would be also nice as an emergency override should the momentary kill switch fail.

That's a great idea too! I could see lots of times when the override would be helpful. Honestly I'd probably keep it in most of the time and just remove it when going to shady/risky areas.

 

[unclemat]

I have another idea. A momentary button connected to a timer relay. So you don't have to hold the momentary button while starting the engine. An override would be simply a test relay in place of the timer relay.

 

[bloc]

We never heard if @ekolpack ever implemented this, but I decided to do so. Thanks to @LXRuth for this clever-seeming idea.

I managed to locate pin 22 of the 2B connector where it plugs into the main body ECU (or maybe into some box that contains it - I'm not clear on that. I pulled the panel from the dash and was just able to find room to splice into the wire at pin 22 - it was a red one (24 and 19 aren't connected, the other ones were blue or green I think). I tested starting the truck with the wire connected and not connected, and everything seemed to work just as expected.

View attachment 3828349

For now I just have the other ends of my splice twisted together, but my plan is to eventually get hold of one of the OEM dashboard buttons such as the VSC OFF switch and put it in one of the unused button locations on the dash. Then I'll just need to press that AND the brake when I hit the start button. I don't imagine it will matter if it stays unconnected while driving.

I do plan to also add a toggle switch buried somewhere that permanently connects the splice, for when I take it somewhere for service, etc.

Paging @AcmeSys for his expert opinion on how effective this might be.

 

[ekolpack]

I have another idea. A momentary button connected to a timer relay. So you don't have to hold the momentary button while starting the engine. An override would be simply a test relay in place of the timer relay.

Timer relay....I didn't even know that was a thing! Great idea!

 

[MTBADCT]

Hello guy I’ve been thinking of installing this unit on my lc since I don’t have to splice any factory wires. I’m just concerned about using non oem relay. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Drop-In Kill Switch (Anti-Theft) - 41.22 Inc. - https://41twentytwo.com/product/vehicle-kill-switch/?srsltid=AfmBOopo6RNY0spVzgS2yWSHIZDmuOiRhIbnGl-KfkaXhGTwrb24MLS2

 

[gasman4u]

Hello guy I’ve been thinking of installing this unit on my lc since I don’t have to splice any factory wires. I’m just concerned about using non oem relay. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Drop-In Kill Switch (Anti-Theft) - 41.22 Inc. - https://41twentytwo.com/product/vehicle-kill-switch/?srsltid=AfmBOopo6RNY0spVzgS2yWSHIZDmuOiRhIbnGl-KfkaXhGTwrb24MLS2

I’d HOPE they use a quality relay in this kit. But for $98, it’s likely Chinesium low bid stuff. If you’re really concerned you could keep the original relay hidden in your car should this one take a sh*t.

 

[efred]

I've got (for now) a toggle switch mounted down under the dash, while I wait for the OEM dashboard button to arrive. All seems to work as expected.

Even though this was obvious from the plan, it didn't occur to me that I'll need to push the button to shift from park as well as when I hit start. The position of the button will allow me to press it and the start button one-handed so that's all good, but pressing it while I shift from park will be kind of inconvenient and I'd like to make it not to hard for friends and family to drive my car. So I'm thinking of just keeping a toggle switch instead. Or maybe move the splice to a wire that doesn't disable the shifter.

The toggle switch is in a mildly obvious place - it's just where you'd put a killswitch, and you might see it if you're down hunting for the ODB socket trying to steal my car. So I might move it if I can find a better spot.

If I keep the toggle switch, I'll probably just kill it at night, the last time I use my car. I probably will not always remember to do that.

The timed relay would work nicely too. That would make the wiring more complex though (I'll have to find power somewhere).

 

[unclemat]

If I keep the toggle switch, I'll probably just kill it at night, the last time I use my car. I probably will not always remember to do that.

I honestly think the non-momentary kill switch defeats the purpose.

So the proposed splice defeats the shifter as well? So every time you shift to P, you would have to engage the kill switch, to shift away from P. That's no bueno, too annoying.

 

[AcmeSys]

I'd tap the fuel pump fuse and install a relay inline with the lopro fuse socket. use the switched fuse socket power to power the relay and load and run the relay signal ground to the cabin thru the switch then to chassis ground. This way there is only one wire running thru the fire wall. Use an OEM type on/off (not momentary) dash switch in one of the unused blanks. No OEM harness modifications required. if the kill system goes bad- pull the fuse connector and reinstall a fuse to bypass everything

 

[ekolpack]

I'd tap the fuel pump fuse and install a relay inline with the lopro fuse socket. use the switched fuse socket power to power the relay and load and run the relay signal ground to the cabin thru the switch then to chassis ground. This way there is only one wire running thru the fire wall. Use an OEM type on/off (not momentary) dash switch in one of the unused blanks. No OEM harness modifications required. if the kill system goes bad- pull the fuse connector and reinstall a fuse to bypass everything

View attachment 3830662

View attachment 3830663

These relay/fuse type options would work fine, and probably prevent most (or at least some thefts), but for experienced thieves, this is the first thing they'll check. The old fuel pump kill switch is the most obvious thing, next is something surround the ignition or starter relay. The beautiful thing about the brake pedal sensor is that it's a pretty novel idea not on most thieves radar, and it's not obvious by looking at the fuse boxes or relay panel. But assess your appetite for exposure given the environment you're in and choose accordingly. Just a heads up.

 

[efred]

Use an OEM type on/off (not momentary) dash switch in one of the unused blanks.

That would be perfect but unfortunately, at least in my car, the dash switches are all momentary (and toggling happens in software or firmware or whatever). The one exception is the button that retracts the mirrors, but that's a non-standard shape and won't fit in the blanks. Maybe such a thing exists and I didn't buy that option.

If there were such a button it would be better hidden in plain sight than a custom-looking toggle somewhere less convenient. Once I got rolling I could turn it off anytime along my route or after I get wherever I'm going, so I would probably get the muscle memory to use it every time. And all with simple, passive electronics and nothing through the firewall.

Second best seems like the delay-on-release relay but I'll need to figure out somewhere to get power in the cockpit. Maybe tap off an unused fuse but there's no extra room under the cover. If anyone has a better idea for sourcing power I'd be glad to hear it.

 

[efred]

Actually this one looks like it might be a physical toggle. Three-position but that's ok. Anybody know if it is?

Maybe I should go sniff around the Pick n Pull...