Best draglink/Pitman arm for Scout Saginaw?

[TRAILTOYZ]

Finishing up the Saginaw install on the FJ40 and was wondering what the best combo would be for pitman arm and drag link. It's sprung under w/37's and is going to stay that way. I can pick up an arm off of a Waggy and then fab a drag link but what would you guys recommend?

I've heard of folks using a straight arm off of a camaro as well as the Jeep arms.

Erik

 

[JasonH]

I used the Wagoneer arm on my Scout box. Works perfect for me. I swapped to 4x4Labs steering at the same time so I used his drag link.

 

[too tall]

as long as the arms you use are relatively the same length as your pitman arm then it doesn't matter . The scout box is 4.25 turns and should be enough to get you from lock to lock on the stops. I have used the camaro arm 7" eye to eye and the same taper as 80 series tre's . HTHs

 

[TRAILTOYZ]

Thanks! I'm picking up a waggy arm and will work things out with the drag link. I have a stupid question though, in order to ensure that the draglink is the correct length, should I just make sure the arm is parallel to the frame, or turn the box to full lock on one side, then rotate it back the other way 2.125 turns? Fun Times.

 

[Mark W]

You have to center the box. Turn it lock to lock a couple of times to find out exactly where your center is. Then make sure your tires are straight ahead (don't forget to allow for toe in when you're doing this and to check both sides).

Assumin g that you are keeping the drag link (replacing the relay rod) connected to the tie rod, then you want the oitman arm straight ahead, not angled the way you want it if you connect to a double knuckle arm or hysteer knuckle arm.

Keep an eye on your clearances from the spring and the frame. Not sure if you noticed when you looked at mine, but there is only about 1/8 of an inch clearnace between the fame and the TRE on the pitman arm (I've got it flipped for more room). This gives me maximum room from the spring.


Mark...

 

[TRAILTOYZ]

Gotcha. I got it finished up on Friday. I picked up a waggy arm which I may swap in down the road, but for now I'm keeping the Scout arm. I cut and welded the scout tie rod to the toyota tie rod and it came out great. Toe-in may need some minor adjusting. I like the quick steering...this will be mainly a trail machine so road manners aren't a big consideration.

I picked up some Sweet Mfg. U-Joints, a 3/4 to 3/4 smooth bore to connect the shafts, and a 13/16" x 3/4 smooth bore for the box. I used an intermediate shaft off of a '90 4Runner...just because I had it and it fit perfectly. It's also a collapsible shaft...so I won't be impaled by the column if I slam into a tree or something.

Came out well...plenty of work but the next one should go much quicker. Those 1/2" wall crush sleeves from Nth Degree Mobility were the perfect length and weld very nicely. They space the box out just enough so that you don't have to relocate the radiator.

Also learned that you can swap the steering wheel from a '90's 4Runner and even make the horn work by re-bending the little copper contact bar for the horn button.