BEST DIESEL FOR 64' FJ-40

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problem with turboing the 1hz is it's indirect injection, which means you can blow the pre combustion chambers to pieces with too much boost apparently. as the ihd-t is direct injection, so you can crank boost up higher than a 1hz with less drama.

i love 1hz though, mate of mine got a good one from the factory (when all mechanical component are about perfect) in his 1hz, and he could blow away ricer civics (nothing too extreme though) when it was stock.

now it's turboed, he can pull away from a 350chev powered 75 series (his mates) up hill, running 35's and stock gearing(the other cruiser had worn 33's)
 
man....

all this diesel talk makes me want to drop one in really bad. really, really bad.

anybody have weight comparisons on these bad boys?
i figure that should factor into a decision also.

here's my contribution:
2F = 8.7 million lbs (something like 700 lbs and some change right?)

also, how much does the turbo set-up cost for a 1hz (gehn...?) and how much will a 1hd-t set you back?


in my situation, i would have to justify cost with improved gas economy (one of the reasons why i want to go diesel), so anybody have any of those stats too?


sorry bout hoppin in here and just askin a bunch of questions, and offering no answers whatsoever.


malphrus
 
I am not sure how much a Turbo kit for the 1HZ costs. I contacted AXT about a turbo for the 2H before I decided to go for used, running motor, here's what they said:

"The turbo kit is priced @ $3300 and is complete with a Garrett water
cooled turbocharger with custom built turbine and compression housings
developed to suit the 2H 60 engine."

That's Australian $ btw, for so thats a little under $2500 US. Not cheap, but the kit sounds pretty complete aside from an intercooler ;)):
-Two piece exhaust manifold
-Mandrel bend exhaust pipe, bolting to stock system
-High temperature resistant hoses, braided stainless steel, teflon lined oil line
-Stainless steel hardware ( clamps, studs, etc. )
-Custom built turbocharger
-Cast alloy air ducts
Power numbers are claimed to be 155hp and 250ft-lbs.

I have not yet asked them about the price of their 1HZ kits but the kits come with basically the same components and offers 180hp and 270 as noted above. Again this is w/o an intercooler.

Safari offers both turbo and intercooling kits for the 1HZ. I don't know they cost, but together power is claimed to be 203hp and 320ft-lbs.

I don't know how much a 1HD-T or -FT would run, but as others have noted, expensive to say the least.
 
[quote author=72cruiser link=board=21;threadid=13341;start=msg141130#msg141130 date=1082313845]
man....

all this diesel talk makes me want to drop one in really bad. really, really bad.

anybody have weight comparisons on these bad boys?
i figure that should factor into a decision also.

here's my contribution:
2F = 8.7 million lbs (something like 700 lbs and some change right?)

also, how much does the turbo set-up cost for a 1hz (gehn...?) and how much will a 1hd-t set you back?


in my situation, i would have to justify cost with improved gas economy (one of the reasons why i want to go diesel), so anybody have any of those stats too?


sorry bout hoppin in here and just askin a bunch of questions, and offering no answers whatsoever.


malphrus


[/quote]

If you do the swap solely for fuel economy's sake then you will be somewhat disappointed as I think the costs involved in the swap will exceed fuel savings for several years at least unless you do a lot of driving. If your 2F is on it's last legs and you're considering a 350 or other engine transplant then the extra for a diesel is likely easier justified.
The diesel engine is likely not much lighter than the 2F as the diesels are very substantial engines due to the high compression ratio's that they must endure.
There is also significant wiring changes that must be made, even if you do as we are and retrofit a 12v 3B.
 
[quote author=cruiser_guy link=board=21;threadid=13341;start=msg141155#msg141155 date=1082320386]
If you do the swap solely for fuel economy's sake then you will be somewhat disappointed as I think the costs involved in the swap will exceed fuel savings for several years at least unless you do a lot of driving. If your 2F is on it's last legs and you're considering a 350 or other engine transplant then the extra for a diesel is likely easier justified.
The diesel engine is likely not much lighter than the 2F as the diesels are very substantial engines due to the high compression ratio's that they must endure.
There is also significant wiring changes that must be made, even if you do as we are and retrofit a 12v 3B.
[/quote]

ahh, nahyo. the fuel economy thing wouldn't be the driving force for the switch. i'm just tryin to look ahead a little bit, esp. b/c i doubt prices are gonna go down any time soon (maybe ever?) on gas.

thanks for the other thoughts on that. yeah, with the electrical it would definitely be major case of trial by fire, as i am no where near knowledgeable abt wirin stuff.


malphrus
 
malphrus-

if you are worried about running a diesel (and specifically a 1HZ) I can email you a movie I made of one I sold. Basically it was fan blade to tranny (transfer was pulled off) in a rusty mine truck partial frame. it required:
1) 12 volt push button switch to starter
2) 12v to the fuel cut solenoid
3) gravity fuel feed (from 1 gallon can o diesel)
4) a return line to a bottle on ground
5) hose for cooling water.

it's by no means rocket science. open the fuel cut, bump the starter, give it fuel, and cool it with a hose if you run for more than 2-3 minutes- the remainder of the truck is irrelevant.

when I bough my 1HD-T we used only a bellhousing and flex plate (auto model) to hold the starter and spin the crank. It was sitting on a wooden dolly not lashed down or anything.....
(oohhhh, much danger...no iron test stand!!!, yeaaaaa.)
 
I'm leaning towards the 6.2 diesel for my conversion. Its cheaper than the toy diesels and the easier on parts and rebuilds. The conversion is pretty staightforward.
The toy diesels are certainly nice but worldwide practicality is not as good as the 6.2. Except for some places in asia the 6.2 is servicable worldwide. In the US used engines can be found very cheap. The 6.2 has some flaws but is nowhere near the disaster the 5.7 was. Stay away from the earlier high mileage blocks as the have a tendancy to crack around the crankshaft.
 
so anybody got a cost comparison on runnin engines?

6.2, 13-bt, 3-b, etc...


thanks,
malphrus
 
I considered an american diesel for my swap but I opted for the 1HZ because I was looking for the simplest (quickest) conversion possible and liked the idea of keeping the 60 all Toyota. Had I gone american, I think I would have gone with the Cummins 5.9L though, great motors and a bolt up six speed manual ::).

Sorry malphrus, no price comparo...
 
like I have said for going on 5 years, price the diesel engine you want on how much an injection pump will cost.

Icky's HDJ60 just ate it's pump. He is looking at a minimum $2,200 bill if the pump can be rebuilt or $3,500+ for a new pump. (he paid under $6,000 for the whole running engine)

If you run a 3B, you can get a pump in no time.
If you run a 13B-T (red vs blue block) your hosed if the pump dies (maybe GS might have one.)
if you run a 3BII, sorry you are going to be down a while.
If you run a HZ, there are several hundred floating around Canada and several 100,000 around the world a phone call away.
If you run a HD-T (version) get out the wallet.
2H and 12H-T will be like a 13B-T pump scenerio.

lesson for today, keep water out of the fuel...
 
Or buy a spare pump when you buy the engine. 'Spensive, I know.
Also, isn't the 1HD common rail?
 
[quote author=rick_d link=board=21;threadid=13341;start=msg141350#msg141350 date=1082353336]
like I have said for going on 5 years, price the diesel engine you want on how much an injection pump will cost.

Icky's HDJ60 just ate it's pump. He is looking at a minimum $2,200 bill if the pump can be rebuilt or $3,500+ for a new pump. (he paid under $6,000 for the whole running engine)

If you run a 3B, you can get a pump in no time.
If you run a 13B-T (red vs blue block) your hosed if the pump dies (maybe GS might have one.)
if you run a 3BII, sorry you are going to be down a while.
If you run a HZ, there are several hundred floating around Canada and several 100,000 around the world a phone call away.
If you run a HD-T (version) get out the wallet.
2H and 12H-T will be like a 13B-T pump scenerio.

lesson for today, keep water out of the fuel...
[/quote]

Didn't he use a water separator? I'm sure he did, so what exactly happened?
 
he has a raycor water separater but the circuit board has been acting up making the light on his dash blink. He could move the wires around on the box and clear it up- so he thought it was just poorly made. He is anal about buying good fuel, changing filters etc often, bu something missed the protective measures and got through (I don't know how much...)

anyway, at this point, DOA

1994 engine (12 valve) and is not common rail.
 
[quote author=72cruiser link=board=21;threadid=13341;start=msg141294#msg141294 date=1082345032]
so anybody got a cost comparison on runnin engines?

6.2, 13-bt, 3-b, etc...


thanks,
malphrus
[/quote]

Pick up a rusted 'Cruiser from eastern Canada. It'll have all the wiring and stuff you need. It won't cost too much as the truck will be pretty much toast (but you're after the running gear so who cares!). If the engine needs a rebuild figure $3000 or so w/o head or add an additional $1000 - 1500 and you'll have what amounts to a new engine (the 3B's that came here are all rebuildable right down to cylinder liners).
 
13BT + 35SSRs + 5speed & custom gearing = :D :D :) 8)

When I bought her, Agent O was a complete pos. In a frenzied 64 days we rebuilt the entire body and custom fitted a 13BT in her so we could take her to Cruise Moab 02. Took for 2km test drive and then drove to Moab from Calgary with totally untested truck. One good thing about diesels is their ability to continue to run sans power. Anyway, since we didn't have time/never thought to check the condition of the tank before we left ended up running into a whole lot of algae fuel contamination issues about a month after returning home. Long story short, we cleaned her up, adjusted some settings and she's good as new. If a part dies down the road that we need we'll source it, find someone who can build it, or build it ourselves... we'll worry bout driving off that bridge if it veers in our direction.

Moral of story... 13BT rules for a 40. Great mileage, great speed, great fun.

Charla Downey
81 13BTJ42 "Agent Orange"
76 FJ40 "Uncle Gord"
73 FJ55 "Prof. Rottingham..."
 
[quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=21;threadid=13341;start=msg144590#msg144590 date=1082824543]
Lets see some pics of Agent O..........
[/quote]

If you're a reader of Toyota Trails you may recognize the scenery in this pic from one of the covers. Will try to locate a pic of her under the hood for all y'all :)
 
Hey Charla,
the picture of your Cruiser in the mountains is one of the best I've seen.

Where did you get your 3-1 gears from? Aus or Rob M?

Cheers,
Steve Mullen
 
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