BEB paranoia...
- Thread starter ticoman
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maat
yeah nah maybe
is this as big a deal in 12hts? i mean i know BEB are important but are the 12hts as proned as the 1HDT? mine currently only has 220,000kms just wondering if its a good idea to replace them now
No,they go for a gazillion klms and some more. Im not sure if its true,but someone said they have a ceramic coating on them that absorbs oil to some extent,but I have never inspected them.
In any case I cant recall anyone ever having a problem with 12HT BEB. Its nearly always the rings that go 1st,and that comes on fairly slowly.
Im still pissed off I sold my HJ61 with 300k on it ,its still going like steam train.
maat
yeah nah maybe
thanks for the good news rosco 
I am wondering if it is worth it for me to pull the pan off and do my 75s bearings at some point.
It's got high kms but is it really even needed?
It's got high kms but is it really even needed?
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I never used mine because Mr. Lassman got me smoking deal on a short block. You should measure your deck height and check the piston for cracks or burrs. If it all checks out and the impressions aren't deep I would re-use it. Mine were just slight impressions. There was another fellow around here who pulled his head for a gasket job and found impressions on the top of one of his pistons from a previous episode before he owned it. Didn't seem to affect anything and he would never have known if he hadn't had to open it up.
If you've completely eaten a bearing you may have to change the rod and possibly the crank. Both of mine were done. The rod was egg shaped and the crank had 1/16" gone- way beyond machining. New 1HD-t cranks are big bucks but I found 1hz cranks used that were fairly cheap.
Pic from LCOOL.
Result of bad big end bearings gone too far. Conrod broke through the block and smashed timing case.
LandCrusher80
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/td_bearings.html
Holy cow man. Paranoia in this case is well founded. And people get all weird with pre-cups breaking. If I owned a motor like this, better be sure id be changing bearings every 100k. Id actually prefer dropping the pan and changing bearings as opposed to taking the head off. That thing gets heavier the older I get. Just wear a hat and glasses as you will get dripped on
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- #29
suitably scared now
O.K you all have me sh****G BEBs now so I guess I will tackle a bearing job.I have basic tools here and I can borrow a torque wrench from somewhere. I am in a little fishing village on the beach in Costa Rica right now Is plastigauge pretty common? is there a thread here that walks a guy through the procedure? should I order toyota oem bearings or after market. I don't know if the bearings have been replaced before and cannot ask the op as he has passe away But I would bet that if the gasket goo is grey (original) than they probably have not been redone correct?
O.K you all have me sh****G BEBs now so I guess I will tackle a bearing job.I have basic tools here and I can borrow a torque wrench from somewhere. I am in a little fishing village on the beach in Costa Rica right now Is plastigauge pretty common? is there a thread here that walks a guy through the procedure? should I order toyota oem bearings or after market. I don't know if the bearings have been replaced before and cannot ask the op as he has passe away But I would bet that if the gasket goo is grey (original) than they probably have not been redone correct?
Not trying to hijack the thread, rather trying to add to it..
I am about to do the BEB's too and was wondering about the Plastigauge measurments. I understand the need to do it and I plan to, but in the same time I have these questions:
1- Are there ANY reported cases from people who used the Plastigauge where the clearance was found out of tolerance and a larger bearing (other than STD) was needed? If so, what size?
2- Does it make sense to buy the STD bearings plus a set of one size bigger, just in case. I hate to leave the truck gutted while I place another order for an over-sized kit. It is a daily driver.
I am about to do the BEB's too and was wondering about the Plastigauge measurments. I understand the need to do it and I plan to, but in the same time I have these questions:
1- Are there ANY reported cases from people who used the Plastigauge where the clearance was found out of tolerance and a larger bearing (other than STD) was needed? If so, what size?
2- Does it make sense to buy the STD bearings plus a set of one size bigger, just in case. I hate to leave the truck gutted while I place another order for an over-sized kit. It is a daily driver.
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1. In all cases in our workshop the STD bearings have been a perfect fit. We only install ACL brand bearings. We plastigauge all of them - it takes a lot longer, but is worth doing to be sure. Trashing a bottom end is an expensive way to learn.
2. It does not make sense to buy more than one set.
- Definitely plastigauge the bearings.
- Lube everything properly to prevent a dry start.
- Run the engine gently for the first while and let things seat in and oil pressure develop.
I have only heard of one case where the ACL STD bearings did not fit one rod properly according to the plastigauge... I have not experienced this yet, only heard about it.
~John
If you want to take it easy on the first start, pull the fuel cutoff wire n crank it with the starter until you see oil pressure on your gauge. You can't get any more gentle than that, unless I am mistaken?
AFAIK the BEB issues were introduced in 80 series, more specificly in 1hdt engines... Earlier series should be free of this problem (Changing BEB's in 60 series cruiser for example is something extremely rare)...
Hi all,
Now I don't mean to high jack the thread but I thought it would be an appropriate place to ask.
I too have a HDJ80 which has now clocked 450k kms. Now according to the 2 previous owners the BEBs have never been changed out... so needless to say.. its next on my list!
Now I was just wondering if someone could share some info;
I called ACL in Tas, Australia and they told me that they don't make BEB shells for the1HD-T??? But I have read many time that these are what people run. Can anyone shed some light on this? Or recommend an aftermarket BEB available in Perth Western Australia?
In having no luck with an aftermarket BEB kit I called mr Toyota. He quoted me $350.00 before tax for a new set.... Is this about the right cost? Or am I being taken for a ride?
I was also wondering how do you know if you need to buy and under or oversized kit? Can you only determine this after you remove the old ones?
Any info would be a huge help!
Cheers
Pete
Now I don't mean to high jack the thread but I thought it would be an appropriate place to ask.
I too have a HDJ80 which has now clocked 450k kms. Now according to the 2 previous owners the BEBs have never been changed out... so needless to say.. its next on my list!
Now I was just wondering if someone could share some info;
I called ACL in Tas, Australia and they told me that they don't make BEB shells for the1HD-T??? But I have read many time that these are what people run. Can anyone shed some light on this? Or recommend an aftermarket BEB available in Perth Western Australia?
In having no luck with an aftermarket BEB kit I called mr Toyota. He quoted me $350.00 before tax for a new set.... Is this about the right cost? Or am I being taken for a ride?
I was also wondering how do you know if you need to buy and under or oversized kit? Can you only determine this after you remove the old ones?
Any info would be a huge help!
Cheers
Pete
The bearings are the same for the 1HZ and the 1HD-T. Call Engine Australia, and they can supply them in standard, 0.25 over or 0.50 over. Chances are you need standard, if the engine has not been worked on before and the crank ground.
cheers,
jan
Don't forget gentlemen... when talking BEBs they are UNDERSIZE not oversize.......
ie if the crank has been ground it will actually be a smaller diameter than original... I see most, if not all posters here have called them oversize......