Bearings?

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smm3 said:
Thanks for the information Sam.

As far as checking the bearings, how will I know that I need to replace one or all of them? I have 174K miles on the originals.

I know I need to replace at least one because I took my truck in to have the bearings repacked and my mechanic said both of my CVs were shot and the total cost was going to be more than I could swing because I had just put a new compressor in my home AC. I told him to put if back together and I paid him for his time. Planning on dong it all myself soon though.
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There are some good replies here about checking the bearings. If the bearing is really worn out usually the 12 o'clock/6 o'clock will yield some play. It's really up to you. The clicking I think is probably the CVs though.

Now this is just my personal opinion, when I'm going to do a job like the front bearings, I would just replace everything. The bearings, washers, seals, etc. I just don't like having to do a job more than once and especially for a $5 seal or a $2.50 washer.
 
Removed the left front wheel and found the brake disc to be blued indicating a real heat issue. I had a couple of instances of heavy braking with my trailer attached so I'm not sure if that's what caused it or not, nevertheless the local brake company wants to redo the front brakes, axles, bearings, caliper rebuild, bearing re-pack as well as adding in fuel system service, diff service, and power steering service....Like was mentioned. Just do it all now.
 
Lowe Toyota said:
There are some good replies here about checking the bearings. If the bearing is really worn out usually the 12 o'clock/6 o'clock will yield some play. It's really up to you. The clicking I think is probably the CVs though.

Now this is just my personal opinion, when I'm going to do a job like the front bearings, I would just replace everything. The bearings, washers, seals, etc. I just don't like having to do a job more than once and especially for a $5 seal or a $2.50 washer.
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I do plan on replacing everything you mentioned especially with the age and mileage on my truck. Also plan on replacing the sway bar bushings. The ones I can see look pretty worn out.

Still getting my list together at this point. I am sure I could come up with lots more to replace....but the pocketbook won't allow it.

Anything else you would recommend that would be considered necessary while I have the entire front end apart?
 
It is possible, look up a thread by IdahoDoug i think in the 80 forum. Unless your bearings are totally shot, you shouldn't have to replace them, just repack them with grease. $800 seems pretty steep for bearing replacement.
 
First, find another mechanic.

Second, put offending wheel in the air, grab it a 12 and 6 o'clock and shake. If it tilts/moves on the vertical axis you need to take a look at the bearings or at minimum tighten the hub down and get to the other mechanic.

$800 is steep for bearing replacement. You'll also want to look at those front rotors. If they've never been replaced, now would be a good time.
 
1. So we are saying that wheels don't fall or shear off when the bearings fail.
2. The driver side and coincidentally the blued disc wheel has vertical movement at 12 and 6.
3. The passenger side wheel had the circlip fall off last week leaving 1" open to rain.
4. Right rotor was replaced 15k ago. Left rotor was not.

Assuming I repack the bearings I should be ok or should I assume since I heard a groaning sound out of the left wheel that they're toast?
 
pnolanIH8MUD said:
1. So we are saying that wheels don't fall or shear off when the bearings fail.
2. The driver side and coincidentally the blued disc wheel has vertical movement at 12 and 6.
3. The passenger side wheel had the circlip fall off last week leaving 1" open to rain.
4. Right rotor was replaced 15k ago. Left rotor was not.

Assuming I repack the bearings I should be ok or should I assume since I heard a groaning sound out of the left wheel that they're toast?
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The bearing failure would have to be catastrophic for the wheel to fall off (i.e. rotor shatter, hub disintegrate, etc.).

If your hearing grinding it's possible that may happen - the noise is the warning. At the very least I'd pull the wheel off and check the nut to make sure it hasn't backed off somehow - then snug it up and get it over to whoever you choose to fix it.

In your other thread I noticed that you had some local cruiser heads that could help - take them up on it if you have the time.

As a note, you should always replace the rotors in pairs if not all four at the same time. Sounds to me like you should go ahead and have both sides checked and repacked while at the same time getting that water intrusion taken care of.

I wouldn't recommend keeping your rig on the road if you're really concerned that you have a major issue up front.
 
I appreciate the conservative approach. I'm in the all to common corner with:
1. My usual mechanic is slammed/shorthanded
2. My second mechanic is too
3. Third Land Cruiser specialist is busy
3. Local dealer has no parts
4. 3-5 days for American Toy
5. $$$ :(
6. And the simple fact that I should be running my own business not doing car repair. (as much as I enjoy it).
7. I have some time but no parts.
 
pnolanIH8MUD said:
I appreciate the conservative approach. I'm in the all to common corner with:
1. My usual mechanic is slammed/shorthanded
2. My second mechanic is too
3. Third Land Cruiser specialist is busy
3. Local dealer has no parts
4. 3-5 days for American Toy
5. $$$ :(
6. And the simple fact that I should be running my own business not doing car repair. (as much as I enjoy it).
7. I have some time but no parts.
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Been there.

As much as it pains me to say this, NAPA (or similar) will have at least the bearings (maybe not the needle) and rotors if you need those. They usually have Timkin (sp) bearings which are pretty good (I've used them on race cars).

The rest (seals, clips, etc.) is a crap shoot with them.
 
Catastrophic bearing failure usually leads to the wheel seizing to the hub as the bearings and races melt together from lack of lubrication, not it falling off. I would tighten up the hub for now, get parts from Dan, and tear into yourself next weekend. Then you'll know exactly what's going on and aren't getting soaked for "fuel system flushes".
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Catastrophic bearing failure usually leads to the wheel seizing to the hub as the bearings and races melt together from lack of lubrication, not it falling off. I would tighten up the hub for now, get parts from Dan, and tear into yourself next weekend. Then you'll know exactly what's going on and aren't getting soaked for "fuel system flushes".
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Or, Sam at Lowe... :meh:
 
Just Differentials

smm3 said:
I am about to have to replace some bearings. Would you recommend the Just Differentials over the OEM ones?
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Just wanted to say that I spoke with Shawn over at Just Differentials and he offered me a great deal on complete front end (CVs to bearings). Also spoke to CDan and he was also extremely helpful and thorough.

I'll take the Cruiser in to Lawson Auto Monday to get things fixed. If estimates get out of hand, I'll call in the posse for help. It's really frustrating having the ability to do these repairs but not having the time or the parts readily available.
 
Just want to close this thread with Lawson's diagnosis and subsequent work. The Cv joints had boots replaced and brake work done by previous owner but CVs were generally compromised by being exposed to rain on the right and leaking grease out of the aftermarket old boot kits. To baseline we replaced CVs.

We found burned/warped rotors but were able to turn them to perfection. Then bearings were removed, cleaned, examined and found to be in great shape despite play observed from 12 & 6. Bearings were repacked, new circlips were added to end of CV axles.

It appears that braking is improved tracking left or right has been eliminated and intermittent groan of worn rotor on loose bearings has eliminated moaning sound when taking foot off accelerator. I believe the loose bearings allowed rotor to sag out of parallel with pads and with the additional warped surface increased vibration on the hub and between the caliper pads.

Thanks to all contributing to this repair and who stepped up.

Patrick
 
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